I recently smashed a valve when the car over reved on the strip, resulting in a cracked valvespring and bad valve or valve seat on the exhaust valve. how long should it take a shop to do the work, and is this something i could do myself? what all needs to be removed from the engine to access and remove the head for the proper work? thanks for your help.

 

I think that many of the people on LT1 Tech could probably give you guidelines on what is involved on pulling the head, time required and cost.

Moving to LT1 Tech.....

 

It shouldn't take a shop long at all to repair the head.

You are going to have to take the head off though obviously. Now's a perfect time to get them ported, get some roller rockers...etc. etc.

You're gonna have to take most everything off to get at it. What head is it? It's a lot easier to work on than it looks. For the most part, you'll have to yank the computer harness, intake, valve cover, alternator, maybe the bracket...some other liittle ****. Just keep pulling stuff off until the head is free. have to pull the EGR off the back of the intake, and the tube that connects the 2 heads in the back.

I'm sure someone else can fill you in more than me. It's nota hard job really.

 

they were ported, i've got rollers, but the valvesprings were stock, couldn't keep up with 6500rpm, so i'm going to Stainless valves with a 3 angle job, waaaay stiffer springs and some light weight pushrods. should do the trick so i can spin it up to 7000 rpm without worry.

can't remember what heads they are, but far from stock. compression is 10.87:1, i'll have to have a look at the build sheet. otherwise, check my site: http://sledgehammer.cz28.com

by the way, if anyone reading has experience doing this kind of work, i'd love to talk to you about it, since this will be my first time below the valve covers on my baby. also, is there anything i need to know about installing pushrods, valves and springs? and can i home grind the valves and the head(dented/scratched)?