LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

383 stroker lt1

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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 05:31 PM
  #1  
MINION's Avatar
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383 stroker lt1

i have decided to go the stroker route since i need a new lower end anyway. and was wondering if i could get any and all advice availiable as far as parts and clearance goes

this is what i gather i need to buy from what i have read if i am wrong PLEASE correct me before i waste the money!

3.75 1pc main Crank
5.7 rods
.30 over pistons

any recomendations on pistons would be nice i would like to keep the compression no higher than 10.5:1

if there are any specifics that separate the lt1 350 from any other that information would be great as well
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Bearings, rings, bolts, timing set, gaskets
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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Wink

i kinda figured that needed to go unsaid, but yea those too!
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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I would up the compression.
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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0.030" over pistons.
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MINION
i i would like to keep the compression no higher than 10.5:1
Why?
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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If youre building a 383 stroker it needs to be higher than 10.5 compression, unless youre going the forced induction route. You need to do the math to match the right pistons and heads to figure out where you need to be
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:06 AM
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You failed to mention the hands down most important part of the engine far as power goes. Leads me to believe you are in a blind quest for displacement misbelieving that will find you power. Power is all about the heads, a LOT of strokers are done with a focus on displacement and the topend gets done poorly as a result and it leaves the owners making excuses for why stock shortblocks with a good topend are faster.

To put things in perspective a little the LT4 was 10.8:1 bone stock and 91 octane compatible, so your 10.5 wish suggests a further lack of understanding.

Why 5.7 rods? Makes for a heavier than necessary piston which puts undo stress on the rod bolts.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:50 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by MINION
i have decided to go the stroker route since i need a new lower end anyway. and was wondering if i could get any and all advice availiable as far as parts and clearance goes

this is what i gather i need to buy from what i have read if i am wrong PLEASE correct me before i waste the money!

3.75 1pc main Crank
5.7 rods
.30 over pistons

any recomendations on pistons would be nice i would like to keep the compression no higher than 10.5:1

if there are any specifics that separate the lt1 350 from any other that information would be great as well
If you do go with the 5.7 rods make sure the piston requires 5.7 rods, you must match the piston with the rod.

.030 pistons as someone said.

I would up the compression, but thats just me.

Are you going to be useing nitrous on this engine, if so a quality forged piston. If not maybe a hyper piston.

Save money for all the unseen costs, there will be a lot.

Also, new cam (if you ask what cam, you will get about 500 anwsers, or none at all )

Heads, you can do these, or you can wait, whatever you do, do not skimp on the bottom end as its not "easy" to take back out like the top end.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:09 PM
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Id go with a 6" rod, JE or Diamond pistons. While your in there, replace the oil pump with a HV pump, along with an aftermarket oil pan. Just good insurance

Id also bump that compression, up around 11:1-11:5:1. You'll be fine on pump gas, just make sure you get a competent tuner to do the tune.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by flyinZ
Id go with a 6" rod, JE or Diamond pistons. While your in there, replace the oil pump with a HV pump, along with an aftermarket oil pan. Just good insurance

Id also bump that compression, up around 11:1-11:5:1. You'll be fine on pump gas, just make sure you get a competent tuner to do the tune.
I think a JE or diamond piston would be quite a bit overkill for a N/A motor not pushing 500+hp, (he has not said if he plans on spray or not, so this is just kind of a statement hehe).

I also think the high volume pump is overkill also, and adding the extra cost of the oil pan which he would need if he did go HV.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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You must plan for the future
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 07:10 PM
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my bad

sorry about the lack of information im wanting to shoot for a streetable 425 horsepower. and i do have plans for an sts system in the near future (next eight months or so). as far as my heads go im only 45 mins from loyd elliots shop and i plan on relying on his expertise for the top end and cam. not sure if i mentioned it but the reason im starting at the bottom is because the main bearings in the one i have at the moment are shot and its going to need rebuilt anyway so i figured while im in there lets increase the potential

thanks for correcting me on the .030!

also im confused on journal size... i was looking around and pricing differant parts and it mentioned small and large journals do i need to be concerned about this? if so which should i get? do they have to match?

and will any sbc(350 main 3.75) 1pc crank work in the lt1 or is there something else i need to look into?

as far as my compression goes it is not set in stone. 10:5 i can still run around 12-14lbs of boost w/o detenation problems (or so i understand)

i posted this only to become more educated on my investment so please rip me apart i invite you! in the end it will only save me problems!

Last edited by MINION; Dec 24, 2008 at 07:11 PM. Reason: misspelling
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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and thanks for the 6.0 rod length suggestion im looking into it any info on this would be nice as well
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MINION
as far as my compression goes it is not set in stone. 10:5 i can still run around 12-14lbs of boost w/o detenation problems (or so i understand)

i posted this only to become more educated on my investment so please rip me apart i invite you! in the end it will only save me problems!
You mean 10.5:1
Also, 10.5:1 is entirely to high for a forced induction engine that you are building and have a choice to choose lower. If you run 14 lbs of boost on 10.5:1 then you have an excellent tuner and you enjoy taking risks. It has been done on LS1's if I am not mistaken, but why shoot so high when you have a choice.



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