So how exactly do I make my LT1 full blown 383ci, new crank, pistons and rods? And will I be safe with a .30 over bore pistons by Keith BLack? Thanx

SSXeon

 

You really should do a search on this as it is covered frequently. In a nutshell
-You'll need a new 3.75" stroke crank
-You can reuse your stock rods for anything under 450 rwhp
-You need new pistons, the KB ones will do for moderate power levels.
-You'll want to make sure the rest of your combo doesn't bottleneck your stroker. Make sure you have headers, ported heads, a healthy cam, decent catback, and a decent cold air intake(or ram air).

 

word

if i was doing something ucer 600hp or so i'd go with good rods, scat crank, KB pistons. They can handle 150 shots easy.

I def went overkill with billet rods and forged pistons. I'll just shoot a 200 shot and make up for it

 

I can help you with your 383 I just finished mine. Go to stroker kits .com and look at their lt1 stroker kit you just cant beat it for the money. Ask for Ron. Also for a modest upgrade you can get the following
forged 4340 scat crank 3.750
probe forged pistons
scat 6 inch forged h-beam rods
all the bearings
C/A file fit plasma moly rings
You will have to have it balanced you can send your balancer and flywheel to them or have your own machine shop do it. If you are going to use a blower or 150+ shot of nitrous I suggest that you put 4 bolt main caps on your block (call Callies for the caps). Diamond engineering also makes good caps but hard to deal with. It is not needed below 400hp but above the crank has a tendency to walk causing problems.
My motto is do it right the first time and their wont be a need for a second.

 

How much is that kit, with probe pistons and stuff? I am looking to either go stock shortblock for now, or a 383 if I can get it done for cheap

 

I was looking into some thing like this but didn't do any research yet untill I got the $$ but with a price like that I couldn't beat it if all parts are new. My plans would be for next summer but could by the parts sooner.

 

his regular price for the lt1 stroker kits is 1250
and it is a 200 dollar upgrade for a steel crank all of the rest comes with the regular kit.

 

A word of advice. If you are having a motor built (IOW not doing it yourself) it's usually best to have the engine shop purchase the parts. There's a number of reasons. The most important is that if they buy them, and the thing self destructs due to a defective part, the shop is going to be much more willing to stand behind the project. Another is that they can usually buy parts less expensively than you can. Even if they charge you the same amount, you aren't out anything and they make a few more bucks, which makes them like you more better! Sort of a win-win. If the parts come in worng or damaged, they can deal with the supplier better than you can, and you avoid the hassle. Finally, they are more likely to order the right parts the first time.

Rich Krause

 

Planing on Hooker LT headers, Edelbrock victor heads, CC 252 cam, borla catback, and ramair or homemade CAI. I think that will do

Thanx!!!! So will the 4340 scat crank be good for 500-600rwhp? And what gain did you get with your new 383?

SSXeon

 

We are not sure yet about the hp and torque numbers couldn't finish the tuning because trans came apart. Yes the scat crank is good for 500-600 hp. Also some shops do have a problem with using parts that you provide. However I have been building race engines off and on for 25 years. And I feel more comfortable buying my own parts that way I know what I get. If I dont have the time to do it myself then I always inspect the engine before the oil pan is put on. I know that there are quality performance shops around that are honest and will buy what you ask. but there are a lot more that will substitute a lower cost part for a better one. I know of a situation where a friend asked me to build his 454 stroker for him. I didnt have time so he took it to local shop. He paid for a callies crank, oliver rods, venolia blower pistons.etc. The engine ran well for about a year then broke a rod. When I took it a part it had a scat crank,manley rods,trw pistons. So he paid 4400 for the lowerend parts and recieved 1800 dollars in parts. when he confronted the builder his answer was there aint no differece and refused to refund his money. So knowledge is power. If you are providing quality parts and a builder refuses to work on your engine or refuses to guarantee everything after hes done then you dont need him working on your engine.

 

Jomo: you are making a point that has some validity, I'll admit. I also know of situations where people did not get what they paid for. None the less, if you insist on supplying parts, at least work closely with the guy building the motor to avoid a possible misunderstanding.

I think it's perfectly good business practice to refuse to warrant parts that the customer supplies. A warranty costs money. The way you make the money to cover warranty costs is by making a profit on the parts. I have no problem telling someone to go somewhere else if they don't understand that. They will be trouble if they can't understand a basic business principle like that.

Rich Krause

 

Om I know this as been asked probably a million time and I did try to search it and I cannot find the answer i'm looking for.

What type of flywheel I need to use ?? Can I use the stock one ?
How to you balance an LT1 ?

What's the best bang for the buck when looking for rods??? I'm looking for a max of 400 rwhp.

 

same flywheel, just get a certified one for yor own safety

a machine shop will balance it


why dont you guys contact combomotorsports.

100% bad *** no cheap crap hard core 383s
and they are a site supporter/vendor

 

so you're telling me there's a potential danger of the flywheel exploding and going trough the bellhousing and trough my floor and rip my foot off ?

 

yeah, kinda.
especialy when you make insane hp and tq numbers with good launches
thats why they have tranny blankets