383 Stroker LT1?
02-05-2003, 01:56 PM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 34
HHHHMMMMKK. I see. note to self , check for certifed flywheel.
Would stock rods support 400 rwhp ???
Let says I use a 306 cam, stock heads, stroker engine and maybe bigger injectors.
How much power should I get out of my LT1 ?
Would stock rods support 400 rwhp ???
Let says I use a 306 cam, stock heads, stroker engine and maybe bigger injectors.
How much power should I get out of my LT1 ?
02-05-2003, 02:13 PM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by mat89RS
HHHHMMMMKK. I see. note to self , check for certifed flywheel.
Would stock rods support 400 rwhp ???
Let says I use a 306 cam, stock heads, stroker engine and maybe bigger injectors.
How much power should I get out of my LT1 ?
HHHHMMMMKK. I see. note to self , check for certifed flywheel.
Would stock rods support 400 rwhp ???
Let says I use a 306 cam, stock heads, stroker engine and maybe bigger injectors.
How much power should I get out of my LT1 ?
you wont hit 400rwhp on stock heads
your looking for power in all the wrong places
stock rods will stretch, you want 6'' rods in a 383 anyway
go with an XE or custom cam in my opinion too.
you will need new bigger injectors and agressivly ported heads for 400rwhp
02-07-2003, 11:08 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 731
What does this sound like:
Scat cast crank, 3.75" stroke
Scan I beam forged rods with cap bolts
Probe forged .030 over pistons
CNC-ed heads with 279/233 flow (with flow sheet)
Solid Roller 242/248 duration cam, .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa cam cut on small base circle
Could this be a 400 rwhp combo. For electronics, I was thinking adj. fuel pressure regulator and some tuning, might be able to get away with it. Use my 1 5/8" headers for now, then go to LTs when I can. The rest of the mods are in the sig, with slicks, should I be able to hit 11s at sea level? Should I be able to do block machine work and balancing and put this combo together without having to cut the rods/crank? Thanks.
Scat cast crank, 3.75" stroke
Scan I beam forged rods with cap bolts
Probe forged .030 over pistons
CNC-ed heads with 279/233 flow (with flow sheet)
Solid Roller 242/248 duration cam, .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa cam cut on small base circle
Could this be a 400 rwhp combo. For electronics, I was thinking adj. fuel pressure regulator and some tuning, might be able to get away with it. Use my 1 5/8" headers for now, then go to LTs when I can. The rest of the mods are in the sig, with slicks, should I be able to hit 11s at sea level? Should I be able to do block machine work and balancing and put this combo together without having to cut the rods/crank? Thanks.
Last edited by IgorT.455/406; 02-07-2003 at 11:11 PM.
02-08-2003, 02:26 AM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by IgorT.455/406
What does this sound like:
Scat cast crank, 3.75" stroke
Scan I beam forged rods with cap bolts
Probe forged .030 over pistons
CNC-ed heads with 279/233 flow (with flow sheet)
Solid Roller 242/248 duration cam, .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa cam cut on small base circle
Could this be a 400 rwhp combo. For electronics, I was thinking adj. fuel pressure regulator and some tuning, might be able to get away with it. Use my 1 5/8" headers for now, then go to LTs when I can. The rest of the mods are in the sig, with slicks, should I be able to hit 11s at sea level? Should I be able to do block machine work and balancing and put this combo together without having to cut the rods/crank? Thanks.
What does this sound like:
Scat cast crank, 3.75" stroke
Scan I beam forged rods with cap bolts
Probe forged .030 over pistons
CNC-ed heads with 279/233 flow (with flow sheet)
Solid Roller 242/248 duration cam, .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa cam cut on small base circle
Could this be a 400 rwhp combo. For electronics, I was thinking adj. fuel pressure regulator and some tuning, might be able to get away with it. Use my 1 5/8" headers for now, then go to LTs when I can. The rest of the mods are in the sig, with slicks, should I be able to hit 11s at sea level? Should I be able to do block machine work and balancing and put this combo together without having to cut the rods/crank? Thanks.
good ****ing luck daily driving that thing!
that is a bad *** cam with even more bad *** heads from those quick stats.
you can easily make 400rwhp at the crank if all works out together well.
if u dont kit 11's- cry
that cam is going to rev nice and high
do yo know what a solid roller is by chance?
why would you cut the rods and crank?
02-08-2003, 11:00 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 731
See, I got a brand new comp solid roller, endura x lifters and pro magnum 1.52 RR all still wraped in a box on a trade for BB Olds stuff. So the cam was too good of a deal to pass up. I hope it'll rev good, that is what I like.
I have heard of guys running this cam in stock short block applications and having great luck with it. Its supposed to idle fairly well, have good throttle responses (better then hydraulic) and rev nice. The heads are CNC ported. I am/was thinking about doing this on a stock shortblock, but the 383 is not that much more. They say that solid rollers act more tame on the street then do hydraulics with same duration numbers.
Because some engine builders insist on resizing all these new parts when they get very, very **** about clerances. My question was basically are these things good enough to just assemble, or is the finished work cheap?
I have heard of guys running this cam in stock short block applications and having great luck with it. Its supposed to idle fairly well, have good throttle responses (better then hydraulic) and rev nice. The heads are CNC ported. I am/was thinking about doing this on a stock shortblock, but the 383 is not that much more. They say that solid rollers act more tame on the street then do hydraulics with same duration numbers.
Because some engine builders insist on resizing all these new parts when they get very, very **** about clerances. My question was basically are these things good enough to just assemble, or is the finished work cheap?
Last edited by IgorT.455/406; 02-08-2003 at 11:05 AM.
02-08-2003, 01:34 PM
#21
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by IgorT.455/406
See, I got a brand new comp solid roller, endura x lifters and pro magnum 1.52 RR all still wraped in a box on a trade for BB Olds stuff. So the cam was too good of a deal to pass up. I hope it'll rev good, that is what I like.
I have heard of guys running this cam in stock short block applications and having great luck with it. Its supposed to idle fairly well, have good throttle responses (better then hydraulic) and rev nice. The heads are CNC ported. I am/was thinking about doing this on a stock shortblock, but the 383 is not that much more. They say that solid rollers act more tame on the street then do hydraulics with same duration numbers.
Because some engine builders insist on resizing all these new parts when they get very, very **** about clerances. My question was basically are these things good enough to just assemble, or is the finished work cheap?
See, I got a brand new comp solid roller, endura x lifters and pro magnum 1.52 RR all still wraped in a box on a trade for BB Olds stuff. So the cam was too good of a deal to pass up. I hope it'll rev good, that is what I like.
I have heard of guys running this cam in stock short block applications and having great luck with it. Its supposed to idle fairly well, have good throttle responses (better then hydraulic) and rev nice. The heads are CNC ported. I am/was thinking about doing this on a stock shortblock, but the 383 is not that much more. They say that solid rollers act more tame on the street then do hydraulics with same duration numbers.
Because some engine builders insist on resizing all these new parts when they get very, very **** about clerances. My question was basically are these things good enough to just assemble, or is the finished work cheap?
you NEVER just throw it together.
and if you never did it before, NEVER build an expesnive high revving motor by yourself for the first time
I hope to God this isn't your daily driver
I still think its easier to pay $300 more and get it assumbled.
The only reason I didn't was that I wanted to learn how and my friends dad offered to help/teach me. I was moving pretty soon so it was my last chance
02-08-2003, 03:09 PM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 731
I have put together 4 engines now, and they all run well. The first one got a rod knock not that long ago, but it has many hard miles on it, plus the guy who bought it off me ran out of oil, so go figure.
My 350 in the '88 spins to about 6500 RPM, I put it together three years ago, it now has 55,000 miles on it and I think the rings are worn. Runs still, but uses a bit of oil here and there. It was always driven at WOT.
I know about checking the clerances, I have done them all on my motors. But some local builders keep saying that there is no way they would put together a motor without re-sizing the rods and crank themselves. So my question was are these parts sold as junk, or are they already machined well and ready to be used. Check the clerances, of course. These engine builders charged crazy though, so maybe they are just ****. Everything will get balanced, of course.
Yes, it'll be my summer daily driver. I don't think it'll be that bad at all, especially if its a stroker. A Ford 9" will have to go in soon as I am sick of 10 bolts. Everbody says that solid rollers act like smaller cams at part throttle and low-mid, yet still spin very well up top. I would like to shift this motor at about 6600 RPM or maybe 6800 if possible. How hard is yours to drive on the street with that cam? Low lift numbers on the heads I got are good as well, so should make good midrange.
My 350 in the '88 spins to about 6500 RPM, I put it together three years ago, it now has 55,000 miles on it and I think the rings are worn. Runs still, but uses a bit of oil here and there. It was always driven at WOT.
I know about checking the clerances, I have done them all on my motors. But some local builders keep saying that there is no way they would put together a motor without re-sizing the rods and crank themselves. So my question was are these parts sold as junk, or are they already machined well and ready to be used. Check the clerances, of course. These engine builders charged crazy though, so maybe they are just ****. Everything will get balanced, of course.
Yes, it'll be my summer daily driver. I don't think it'll be that bad at all, especially if its a stroker. A Ford 9" will have to go in soon as I am sick of 10 bolts. Everbody says that solid rollers act like smaller cams at part throttle and low-mid, yet still spin very well up top. I would like to shift this motor at about 6600 RPM or maybe 6800 if possible. How hard is yours to drive on the street with that cam? Low lift numbers on the heads I got are good as well, so should make good midrange.
02-08-2003, 08:45 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: $#&!@$
Posts: 151
Igor, you are trying to acheive what I want out of a 383, 400 rwhp. I have decided to go with the combination motorsports fully assembled crate (thanks to the help of TreyZ28).
I research just about everyday for this stuff. I find myself asking more and more questions from one thing to another. I have decided to save myself the trouble and get a quality built stroker. It will leave a lot of problems out of my hand. Sure im coughing up over 7 grand for everything, but in the long run its worth getting something quality built.
When I say that I am still askig myself more and more questions, its about what I can achieve out of the 383 I can buy from combo. I am buyin the first stroker on their list with stage 2 heads, 6 grand for the fully assembled crate. I ask myself, how much n2o can juice this sucker up without go overboard. Im looking to add 100 shot of n2o later on. I am looking to get 400 rwhp, bu 450 hp at the flywheel would still be nice enough for me.
TreyZ28- that stroker I am talking about, you sent me the link earlier, would that be able to do the job of what I am looking for, 450 bhp and handle a 100 shot and hit some revs of 6500 with the right cam? I am hoping that the stroker can achieve all that.
I research just about everyday for this stuff. I find myself asking more and more questions from one thing to another. I have decided to save myself the trouble and get a quality built stroker. It will leave a lot of problems out of my hand. Sure im coughing up over 7 grand for everything, but in the long run its worth getting something quality built.
When I say that I am still askig myself more and more questions, its about what I can achieve out of the 383 I can buy from combo. I am buyin the first stroker on their list with stage 2 heads, 6 grand for the fully assembled crate. I ask myself, how much n2o can juice this sucker up without go overboard. Im looking to add 100 shot of n2o later on. I am looking to get 400 rwhp, bu 450 hp at the flywheel would still be nice enough for me.
TreyZ28- that stroker I am talking about, you sent me the link earlier, would that be able to do the job of what I am looking for, 450 bhp and handle a 100 shot and hit some revs of 6500 with the right cam? I am hoping that the stroker can achieve all that.
02-08-2003, 09:42 PM
#25
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by ChvyCruzen
Igor, you are trying to acheive what I want out of a 383, 400 rwhp. I have decided to go with the combination motorsports fully assembled crate (thanks to the help of TreyZ28).
I research just about everyday for this stuff. I find myself asking more and more questions from one thing to another. I have decided to save myself the trouble and get a quality built stroker. It will leave a lot of problems out of my hand. Sure im coughing up over 7 grand for everything, but in the long run its worth getting something quality built.
When I say that I am still askig myself more and more questions, its about what I can achieve out of the 383 I can buy from combo. I am buyin the first stroker on their list with stage 2 heads, 6 grand for the fully assembled crate. I ask myself, how much n2o can juice this sucker up without go overboard. Im looking to add 100 shot of n2o later on. I am looking to get 400 rwhp, bu 450 hp at the flywheel would still be nice enough for me.
TreyZ28- that stroker I am talking about, you sent me the link earlier, would that be able to do the job of what I am looking for, 450 bhp and handle a 100 shot and hit some revs of 6500 with the right cam? I am hoping that the stroker can achieve all that.
Igor, you are trying to acheive what I want out of a 383, 400 rwhp. I have decided to go with the combination motorsports fully assembled crate (thanks to the help of TreyZ28).
I research just about everyday for this stuff. I find myself asking more and more questions from one thing to another. I have decided to save myself the trouble and get a quality built stroker. It will leave a lot of problems out of my hand. Sure im coughing up over 7 grand for everything, but in the long run its worth getting something quality built.
When I say that I am still askig myself more and more questions, its about what I can achieve out of the 383 I can buy from combo. I am buyin the first stroker on their list with stage 2 heads, 6 grand for the fully assembled crate. I ask myself, how much n2o can juice this sucker up without go overboard. Im looking to add 100 shot of n2o later on. I am looking to get 400 rwhp, bu 450 hp at the flywheel would still be nice enough for me.
TreyZ28- that stroker I am talking about, you sent me the link earlier, would that be able to do the job of what I am looking for, 450 bhp and handle a 100 shot and hit some revs of 6500 with the right cam? I am hoping that the stroker can achieve all that.
The power is going to be dictated by cam choice since you already got a great set of heads on there
How much can it hold- heh good question.
100 shot is nothing. You can spray 150 all day long on a stock bottom end so long as fuel & spark are there.
I would guess that it would be fine with upto a 300shot, but more importantly how its shot.
a TB plate or a dry kit might not be the best way
Id ask the nitrous section as i'm still learning about nitrous.
Id also ask seth at combo. Hes a great guy and more importantly knows more about that motor than you or I. I honestly think combo is the best at what they do, but thats just my opinion.
Some like nu-tec, if it was me- I wouldn't even hesitate for a second.
Very Good motor choice
that is a VERY VERY solid motor your buying. It should provide you with many miles of fun
Overkill for a NA car-
a bit
But i like knowing that i can spin upto 7000rpms and make 700hp and not worry about my motor breaking. Its worth the extra $400 to me. If its worth donig, its worth doing right. VERY good choice.
Good luck with it.
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