Sounds good. Let me know if there is anything else I can assist you with.

 

Compared to many other products, automotive "hard parts" have a pretty close correlation between cost and quality. A $1,500 eBay RA is not going to be comparable to what Eric is talking about for $2,500. It MIGHT be ok for a mild NA rebuild but I would not confuse it with the high quality parts in the Victory kit. Paradoxically, to use the cheap stuff effectively you need to know a lot more about engine assembly. You had better very carefully check out all the dimensions before bolting the thing together. You should do this with ANY parts, but it's much more likely to find a cheap imported part badly out of spec. Why rebuild with parts of lesser quality than GM put in the car in the first place? There is just too much work involved in a rebuild and the downtime is a real PITA. On a blower car, the thing you absolutely do not want to skimp on is pistons. They are the weak link in most buildups.

Rich

 

an eagle kit is good. sure there is more options out there that are beter and more $, but i think an eagle 383 system with a scat crank would make a lot beter 383 than "mild na" and i have a professional camaro machanic and machine shop do all my 383 work. also i live right by the mahle plant. i use to know a manager i could get everything really cheap there, but that was before my camaro. he priced me a forged set up for $250. to bad i dont know him anymore.

 

I'll agree with you on your points as others have here as well.

As long as youre staying around below 500 FWHP the cast steel crabks will do an excellent job , as will the eagle I-beam rods. But make sure you buy a high quality piston.

If youre planning on more power or a power adder a forged crank and 4340 rods are a must, also like said before , make sure whoever does the assembly be it you or your machinist, make sure that all the "t"s are crossed and the "i" s are dotted. I have learned from experience that it's better to double and triple check something than to check it once and be done.

It also will not hurt you to wait that extra month or week to have something done correctly thats out of wack than to deal with it when the motor is in the car and the metal shavings are in the oil, or you have that mysterious knock that no-one can diagnose.(without a teardown)

 

Another paradox: street high performance use requires better parts than typical amateur race use. Race engines can easily (and should) be closely monitored for signs of wear/impending breakage. A race motor can (and should) be frequently dismantled for inpection and parts replacement. I do this yearly, which represents less than 15 minutes under load. I check valve adjustment and inspect the oil weekly. Every month or so during the season I do a leak down. The oil pressure is recorded on each run and watched for any inconsistencies. Any change in performance is easy to spot by looking at trap speed and is followed by finding the cause. There may be people who do this stuff with their street car, but I don't know of any. My street car has better parts than my race car. And there is a reason for that.

As far as Eagle parts, politics aside, their high end is worth considering but is not much cheaper than mid-range domestic parts. The cheaper imported stuff SHOULD NOT be used except for a mild NA setup and even then, as I posted previously, very close parts inspection is in order (as it always is).

Rich

 

i agree, and i do have the 4340 h-beam rods and the scat crank is also to handle over 900hp. thats what it says about it in summit for the same parts i have.

 

well well then. guess i just have to shovel out a little bit more money.the 383 kit and my heads, cam and intake are going to be for first projects in the next coming months. does LE do intakes also. im going to get the LE# package.

 

anyone

 

Yes Lloyd will port your intake.

 

Eric, Is it important to have 4-bolt main caps with a blower motor??? I'm also considering (I have a 383 2-bolt), and have reviewed you engine packages. From everything I read, block machining is most critical.

 

It really depend on how much power you plan on making. I think they, splayed 4 bolt caps, would be overkill on our ultra economy packages where the money could be spent on bettter componants. On the same token if you plan on making 600,700,800+ rwhp I would strongly recommend them.

We can convert any of our packages to splayed or straight 4 bolt mains.

 

Eric,

I looked at your site and didn't see the 383 Speed Pack, is this a special package that will end soon? That's a great price

Do you need a core? How much shipped to 92626

Thanks,

Jody J.

 

Jody J,
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