I am building a 383 N/A stroker backed by a 4L80 and Ford 9" rear. GM847 now, solid roller and possibly nitrous later. If you were choose heads which would you choose and why? Budget is part of the equation, hence the options listed.

AI 200cc / LE3 Ported Stock Heads - Great flowing heads with little investment.

Trickflows / Darts / LT4 - Run as is for a season then port them in the winter. Flow pretty well stock, flow very nicely ported. Good investment to grow along with setup.

-Dustin-

 

I beleive in giving yourself room to grow with the package, and buying parts once.

I hate replacing an aftermarket part with a "better" part later.

I got a set of ported LT1 casting when I bought my 94, and used them up until I could afford the head I wanted. I am now installing a set of AFR 227s

 

i would say that would depend on your goals and pockets. If you can swing them, go for it.
Go for tfs from ai fully worked, a converted intake and monoblade tb.

 

I'd really like to reach into the deep 11's if not 10's on the motor. I've got the drivetrain for it. I'd also like to beat my big block buddies who run mid 11's with ease.

-Dustin-

 

Low 11's are cake dude...

I'm doing it w/o breaking a sweat in a car that's barely finished with LE heads.

AI 200cc castings will get you that, and more IMO.

Make sure to put a good stall in that thing. If you're staying N/A don't waste time and go for a Yank PT stall.

 

Watch out, low 11's are cake depending on CAR WEIGHT, ALTITUDE, SUSPENSION. Javier does have a quick car...he has a good combo. More often that not you have to tweak, tweak, tweak to get into the 10's on motor.

11.30's aint 10.90's

At 3600 lb raceweight it takes about 440 rwhp and a 60ft in the low 1.50's high 1.40's to go 10.90's.

If it was easy to run 10.90's ALL MOTOR in these heavy *** cars....there would be more of them.


You dont need the 4L80E OR the 9 inch, both suck up power and add weight.

Get a CPT 4L60E and a well built 12 bolt, you will save a 100lbs over the 80E and the 9 inch and make about 20 more rwhp.

To do it at 3800lbs, through a full exhaust on radials is even harder...ask me how I know.


Set your goal and go after it, oh yeh....after you have it figured up on paper for cost, add 30% right onto the top.


All the heads you listed are capable on a 383 to make the power you need to go 10's on motor in the right hands(Head porter)


Have fun

David

 

Agreed, the combo is what makes it, and I suggested some parts to duplicate mine

I have to say I like my Ford 9" though.. it's nice and quiet.

With the Ford 9" my car tips the scale at 3400lbs w/o driver. It's about 3580 w/ me in it.

No weight reduction, stock suspension (cept for LCA's).

Suspension is next on my list.

 

At your raceweight I would be running 10.70/10.80 @127 ish

This car(and me) are going on a diet.

David

 

I say get the Darts and have AI port them later.You might get low 11's just bolting them on with a good set up.Good luck with your build.

 

I'de call them up and see what they reccomend.

 

Javier - I'm running a Vigilante right now, working good, I might get a restall before the season starts though.

Trust me, I'll be talking to the head guys.

-Dustin-

 

You have to think about what you want in the end.

When I firt started with my current project, I wanted a low 10 second LT1 on pump gas, on motor and I feel I can get it this upcoming season.

BUT, what I gave up now I would like to have back...but, I also was aware of where I would be going (like a nice twin turbo kit sitting in my basement), so I had to change things up.

Personally, I would really try to keep your air conditioning, power steering, etc. because the stuff is really nice to have...

As for heads....just because you throw on a set of heads does not mean you are going to haul...you MUST have the right parts to go with it. A solid 10 second in any weather LT1 WILL have to have an aggressive cam. Running 10.90's on a 40 deg day is not a solid 10 second car, it is a low 11's that dips into the 10's.

I plan on running mid 10's in the heat and I have a big set of heads.

 

What works for one application doesn't work well for another

I thought my Vigilante was "working well" until I tried out my Yank.

Yank makes a much more efficient converter.. especially when you go big stall.. which is what that car will want.. not just "need".

 

I'll probably keep power steering for now, but the A/C and a few others is long gone. Full manual valve body, B&M Mega shifter, slicks/skinnies, etc make this a drag car first and street car second. Much like yours, mostly drag, but street it once in a while.

I'm not diehard like I need to hit 10's or I'll sell the car. It's more like, I'd love to get into the low 11's and I think that is very possible, although if 10's are close, like with Javier, I'll shoot for them N/A. Javier still has a stock throttle body, and I'm sure could tweak gears or tires or weight to get even closer.

I know heads are very important and if I dont get what I want out of the ones I end up with I'll work on getting a better set. This is a progressive build with hefty final goals. I may start out hydraulic roller and end up solid roller a few months later. I may go solid right from the start. Maybe just juice the thing. Who knows?

I feel like some dont think I know what I am getting into, but trust me I do.

I had the Vigilante made in expectation of good heads and a larger cam. I dont think I could sell it and get good money enough to justify a Yank. Although I can get it restalled for free. I guess you could say I have a few tricks up my sleeve of getting more out of this soaking-up-loads-of-power-oh-so-heavy-and-worthless-in-an-Fbody 4L80e and 9" Ford

-Dustin-

 

Dustin..

Don't worry, I know all about progressive builds...

It's more like builds that never end.

PS, my stock throttle body days are finally coming to an end. I finally have a new BBK 58mm sitting on the workbench going in with my new valvesprings and oil pump drive