Hi everybody, I'm looking for a 383 stroker kit for my motor, also trying to decide what would be a good compression ratio. Top end includes cc306, comp beehive springs and 1.6 rr, chrome molly rods, stock heads have also been ported, I'm probabily gonna b running a procharger or n2o in the next few years(nothing to major). Any help on what would b a good kit would b awesome. Also my budget for the kit alone is only around $1000, thanks again

 

Ok, after reading alot of prior treads i'll ask a another question, at what point do you need to go with forged internalls instead of cast? And as I understand it forced induction and nitrous means you should run a lower compression but would say 11.1 be ok running maybe 7 lbs of boost or a hundred shot?

 

stock compression is 10.4:1 and isn't considered very boost friendly

11.1:1 with boost and n2o would be a problem IMO

 

Ok, so what about with forged pistons and crank? Still to high?

 

You'll need dished pistons to lower the compression (-16cc or so, depends on your particular setup).

 

You really need to decide on your eventual plans before selecting components, especially as regards to CR. CC306 with a bit of N2O is going to want ~11:1. A blower less, maybe a lot less if it's high boost.

 

This is my dilema, I have a stock stripped LT1 block and all my top end parts from my last motor. What I am looking for is a street/strip motor that I could put a small amount of boost or nitrous to that will perform well without boost or nitrous either. I was assuming 383 was the way to go but I'm not really sure, seams rather complicated maybe. So I know this is close to impossible but what I am looking for is any setup that I could run that's gonna be semi cheap, put some good power out and still b safe to run a bit of boost or n2o on. And I'm looking preferably for a specific kit from somewhere unless buying parts seperate would b cheaper, my tune puts my rev limited at 6500. Also one more question, what's the benifits of going with a balanced kit?

 

IMHO, i would make the choice - blower OR N2O. Some people run a small shot of nitrous with a blower to help cool the intake charge but they are generally small shots (75-100hp). Me personally, if you are looking for good performance without the power adder, I would lean toward a mild nitrous setup. Something with 11:1 CR and a reasonable LSA that will work with a moderate shot (200hp) but won't kill your power on the motor. The low compression required for a blower setup will make the motor lazy until you put the blower on. FORGED PISTONS are a MUST in either case. Don't scrimp here. If you are looking for cheap, stick with the stock crank and by some decent rods and forged pistons. Balance the assembly and put everything together with quality bolts. There are many ways to skin this cat, but this is how I would do it.

Another option, if you just want to get it back together, there is a vender on here selling new factory replacement short blocks for 999 shipped. Pretty cheap to get things running again. Of course power adders are limitied with the the Hyp pistons in the stock shortblock.

 

no reason to try to make a jack-of-all-trades motor, will leave too much power on the table when a dedicated purpose built motor will do the job better and more reliably

benefits of a balanced assembly are such that you save money on balancing (granted the balance job from the company is good) which can get pretty pricey if you need to add weight, with any balanced assembly you will need to run a neutral balance flexplate/flywheel or remove the weight from your stocker

 

What's the vendor that sells the 999 shortblock? I wasn't really even considering 200 shot, I figures 150 at the most.

 

Yet another question, the block that I have is out of a roadmaster, 96 I believe. It didn't have the aluminum heads on it but the block should work fine with my heads right?

 

Also what if I used one the crank out of the roadmaster and the same block, it wouldn't have to be balanced then right? I know it wouldn't be a stroker but if it was bored .30 over that would make it a 355 right? Could I change the rod lengths and make it somewhere between a 355 and a 383? Possibly a 377? I'm thinkin the 383 is gonna b to expensive for me to do. Found a .30 over forged piston full rebuild kit from summit for like $600 but it's like 10.4-1cr

 

Are you building the motor yourself? Are you very experienced?

Balance has nothing at all to do with the block. It is balancing the crank to the the rods and pistons. .030 would make it a 355.

Rod length has NOTHING at all to do with displacement. Displacement is a function of cylinder bore and the crankshaft stroke. Changing the length of rod would just locate the piston in a different part of the cylinder. It would still go up and down the same amount.

With the kinds of questions you are asking, I would recomend getting some serious help on the assembly of your motor.

 

No I'm not doing it myself, I can put together top end stuff never ever messed with bottom end, problem is here in Podunk ville where I live getting somebody that's knowledgeable about LT1 motors is slim if at all so I want to b a hundred percent sure that the guy is doin exactly what I want. If been misinformed b4 by them