383 LE3/LE4 Dyno
ws6- do you mind sending me the spreadsheet for the WOT tuning, and if you got any other documents that would help a newcomer, I would appreciate it!!!
codypatterson@hotmail.com
Thanks!
codypatterson@hotmail.com
Thanks!
Well I dont think those numbers are close to corrected that alot of power. My buddy has the same 383 le3/le4 setup and make a lil over 400 at the wheels through a 9 inch and 6 speed. His car drives great and has none of the issues you have. He has one tune that is a dyno tune and another tune from pcm4less. Both computers have great driveablity just the dyno tune pulls a little harder up top. My car still has a base tune from madz28.com, I have lt4 heads fully ported and polished, along with an 847 cam. My car just has the stall wall problem and no driveability issues.
Good luck with it hope you get it panned out. You shoulda toasted that bolt on ls1 car easy so you definately arent making those numbers. I raced an ls1 trans am with all bolt ons and 150 shot of nitrous, gears, converter and cutout that runs 11.70s with my old ported heads and was an even race.
Good luck with it hope you get it panned out. You shoulda toasted that bolt on ls1 car easy so you definately arent making those numbers. I raced an ls1 trans am with all bolt ons and 150 shot of nitrous, gears, converter and cutout that runs 11.70s with my old ported heads and was an even race.
Just curious...what's the stall wall problem? I'm looking into a mail order tune for my car and I'd like to have the least amount of problems possible.
Also, which is better...PCMforless or a madz28 tune?
Sorry to thread jack.
The "stall wall" is a built in "protection" on OBD-I cars. So that if the PCM detects any "slippage" above 3000rpms it automatically throws thr transmission in to a protection mode. In this protection mode the only forward gears the car will have is 3rd and 4th.
So with that said if you have a good 3200stall converter and you stab the gas from a stop or even a very low roll and you use all of your converter your car will most likely be put in to protection mode for the trans. In order to correct this you would have to disconnect your battery for a couple minutes so that the PCM resets itself.
If you have a 3000 or above converter or plan on getting one just have your tuner, whoever you choose, tune out the stall wall.
The "stall wall" is a built in "protection" on OBD-I cars. So that if the PCM detects any "slippage" above 3000rpms it automatically throws thr transmission in to a protection mode. In this protection mode the only forward gears the car will have is 3rd and 4th.
So with that said if you have a good 3200stall converter and you stab the gas from a stop or even a very low roll and you use all of your converter your car will most likely be put in to protection mode for the trans. In order to correct this you would have to disconnect your battery for a couple minutes so that the PCM resets itself.
If you have a 3000 or above converter or plan on getting one just have your tuner, whoever you choose, tune out the stall wall.
So with that said if you have a good 3200stall converter and you stab the gas from a stop or even a very low roll and you use all of your converter your car will most likely be put in to protection mode for the trans. In order to correct this you would have to disconnect your battery for a couple minutes so that the PCM resets itself.
If you have a 3000 or above converter or plan on getting one just have your tuner, whoever you choose, tune out the stall wall.
Thank you for the explanation. Do you have a preference as far as a mail order tune? I know it wont be absolutely perfect and the cars going to have to go to the dyno for an optimum tune, but I'd like to get the best bang for the buck.
PCM4Less tune:

303.6rwhp / 321.2rwtq - open cutout
12.7xx @ 109.xx on 1.8xx 60'
~11.3-12.0:1 air:fuel
MadZ28 tune:

307.07rwhp / 290.42rwtq - closed cutout
340.61rwhp / 322.35rwtq - open cutout
335.89rwhp / 312.98rwtq - open cutout
12.4xx @ 110.xx on 1.7xx 60'
~12.5-12.7:1 air:fuel
But every car is going to be different. One of my friends had a heads/cam LT1 with a PCM4Less tune on it and took it to be dyno/street tuned and there were no power gains just some driveability gains. I guess it all depends on what you have done and how "common" your setup is as to how well your mail order tune is going to be.
Matt,
I can't access your web site now. Have you done any mods to your fuel rails? I found another 93 LT1 having a rich/lean condition and it was caused by the fuel rails not having equal pressure.
I'm waiting for details on what they did to cure the problem.
I can't access your web site now. Have you done any mods to your fuel rails? I found another 93 LT1 having a rich/lean condition and it was caused by the fuel rails not having equal pressure.
I'm waiting for details on what they did to cure the problem.
ws6- do you mind sending me the spreadsheet for the WOT tuning, and if you got any other documents that would help a newcomer, I would appreciate it!!!
codypatterson@hotmail.com
Thanks!
codypatterson@hotmail.com
Thanks!
X2 for the spreadsheets to padawangeek @ hotmail please
I have been tuning mine at the track and it only goes WOT so the spreadsheets would be helpfull I have been using the tweek and test method to get me where I am now...
tweek something and test and stop tweeking when the gains stop, but I have no idea where the car is from a dyno/wideband perspective. is this something that you can test and tune with a data logger and tunercat since that is what I use?

How exactly did they determine that the pressure was not equal? Let me know what you find out, it may be very helpful.
For some reason the link to the cardomain page changed. It should be fixed now.
Thanks!!
He spent a few hours playing with it again, both in the shop and while I was driving. Most of the idle/stalling problems are gone and overall it's closer to being "done". I'm taking the car back again in the next few weeks to address some small issues...that may just end up being "cam surge".
I've been driving the car almost everyday and the biggest problem I'm having now is the lack of traction at certain times.
I've been driving the car almost everyday and the biggest problem I'm having now is the lack of traction at certain times.
He spent a few hours playing with it again, both in the shop and while I was driving. Most of the idle/stalling problems are gone and overall it's closer to being "done". I'm taking the car back again in the next few weeks to address some small issues...that may just end up being "cam surge".
I've been driving the car almost everyday and the biggest problem I'm having now is the lack of traction at certain times.
I've been driving the car almost everyday and the biggest problem I'm having now is the lack of traction at certain times.
Let me know if you want his info...
Turn the car off and then restart the car cycles it. No need to pull battery cables.


