I tried to do the mail order tune method for well over a year but wasn't having any luck. Back on 06/02 the car was towed to a shop about an hour away. I just picked it up this past weekend. As far as I know, this guy has only tuned one chip car before...but there was no other options within a reasonable distance. While overall it's improved, there still seems to be some work needed. Nothing mechanical was found to be a problem, NOTHING. His time was spent working on the tune and he thinks that it's as good as it can get, but I don't think that can be the case. He thinks that the cam is too big to have anything better, as far as drivability. He also told me that he didn't touch the timing at all. Wouldn't this be an important part of the "tuning" process??

I spoke with Lloyd Elliot and he doesn't think that these problems should be occurring with a good tune.

Some times it will start by itself, other times I will have to hold the pedal to the floor. Once it starts, it will sometimes need some gas to remain idling. The idle will sometimes bounce from 500-1500 rpm...other times it will idle at 1300...other times at 1000. At idle, IAC will still be 160, other times at idle it will be in the 30's. There is still a noticeable stumble/hesitation/vibration (but much less violent than before) from idle to around 3K rpms. After 3K, it smoothes out...for the most part. There seems to still be random spots of hesitation at all rpms/loads. When mashing the pedal from 1/2 throttle, it will sputter/hesitate and then go. When accelerating from a stop sign/red light, the car will hesitate to the point of almost stalling and then take off.

I ran against a 6-spd. LS1 f-body with only headers and cat-back. It was a very close race...so obviously there is something wrong....certainly seemed nothing close to 448rwhp.:meh:

Anyway, here are the two dyno sheets that I was provided. I'm not sure why he used MPH, but it's all that I have until he gets back from vacation at the end of July.






Humidity 100%

BTW - He told me that the dips in the air fuel ratio are caused by the torque converter.

 

Well...glad you kept it. Ever thought about going over to a F.A.S.T like Sean is doing with his 93?

 

Well I dont think those numbers are close to corrected that alot of power. My buddy has the same 383 le3/le4 setup and make a lil over 400 at the wheels through a 9 inch and 6 speed. His car drives great and has none of the issues you have. He has one tune that is a dyno tune and another tune from pcm4less. Both computers have great driveablity just the dyno tune pulls a little harder up top. My car still has a base tune from madz28.com, I have lt4 heads fully ported and polished, along with an 847 cam. My car just has the stall wall problem and no driveability issues.

Good luck with it hope you get it panned out. You shoulda toasted that bolt on ls1 car easy so you definately arent making those numbers. I raced an ls1 trans am with all bolt ons and 150 shot of nitrous, gears, converter and cutout that runs 11.70s with my old ported heads and was an even race.

 

I did, but that's not an option right now because this latest, less than perfect tune, cost almost half of the FAST system.

Thanks.

 

Ouch, I hope you get it worked out, the craftsmanship you put in your car is magazine quality

 

Thanks.

 

Looks like he didn't touch your air fuels, either!

 

The dips in air:fuel are NOT your converter, you probably want to find out what's really going on there.

 

not sure why the A/F is so off and such a wavy line with dips.

Probably would be a big part of any problems you have.

Lloyd

 

Looks to me like the dude that tuned it didnt touch your pe tables (wot fueling). The stock pe tables have a shape that it sort of shockingly similar to your fuel curve. Plus why did he do the pulls with mph on the x axis instead of rpm, when you're tuning its really alot easier to know how fast the engine is turning in the problem areas since thats how the pe tables are set up. There are spreadsheets for tuning the lt1 at wot that you just plug in what your current pe tables are and what a/f you want vs what the dyno readout says you have and it will give you exactly what to put in, usually it will get everything nailed down within three dyno pulls.

Honestly though man you got bent over if your tune cost you that much and your fuel curve still looks like a W and not nice and flat. Besides that wot tuning will do nothing for your part throttle and cruise, and the problems there could likely be fixed within a day. Its really too bad you live so far from me I hate when people get raked over the coals like this and would fix your tune and troubleshoot it for free.

Your a/f ratio is not a converter problem. I have a pretty large converter, and my air fuel ratio is flat as a board with a slight richening at each end it would be totally flat but the car is faster with the richness on each end.

 

Send it to Moe Bailey and be done with it...wouldnt trust anyone else with an LTx tune (well maybe Ed Wright:-)

He will do a mail order for you, Ive gotten a street tune and mail order from him...both seemed flawless. Let me know if you want his contact info.

 

I plan on discussin the AFR with him when he returns. When he said the AFR was like that due to the converter, it didn't sound right but I wasn't sure, so I just accepted his reasoning.
Thanks for the replies.

I'm not sure why he used MPH. The tune was costly, but at this point I would have no problems with the price...if it was running the way it should. Send me your address and I'll get a plane ticket to you ASAP.

"...everything nailed down within three dyno pulls."
"...could likely be fixed within a day."
LMAO
He had it for almost two months.
Thanks!

Thanks for the info. Tony Sheperd has the contact number on his website.

 

Sounds like you need to get some money back. If he only did 3 pulls on a dyno tune there is a seriously problem!

 

If this isn't resolved, I will certainly get some $ back, one way or another. He did more than 3 pulls...I'd guess 20-30. I was just quoting what WS6T3RROR posted and I found humor in the fact that he had the car for almost 2 months and still couldn't get it right.

 

Well with some people, it wouldnt matter if they had it 2 years they'd still be a crap *** tuner and the car would never run any better.

Hell if you had the equipment to tune with i could just email you the spreadsheet and you could tune the wot part of it yourself. But with the part throttle problems you're describing, I think its going to take somebody with experience actually logging and driving the car to get it done. Troubleshooting the stock pcm is sometimes a very strange thing and the answers to problems seem very off the wall at times.