Definitely low. Did you get any logs of the runs? You could be getting knock retard for some reason or one of your sensors could reveal a potential problem.

 

Good question. I saw a guy go from 399 to 446 just by locking the converter. RW dynos do not like stalls at all. My old setup only showed 330 unlocked but I was whipping the crap out of supposed 400 RWHP cars all the time.

 

here a link to the data log
http://www.yourfilehost.com/media.ph...le=camaro9.csv

the valve lash was set to 1/16 but when adjusting the valves should the pushrods spin freely and freely i mean like a loose feeling or should they have a drag on them still spins but not as freely???

 

the #'s definitely seem low.

The graph looks a lil rougher than it should but that could be the smoothing setting.

I checked the AFG's and you are pulling 415 at one point and that is "usually" good for well over 400 RWHP in a 6 speed car. This tells how much air is cruising through the engine so it is either not being used right (valve float, etc,) or the engine might be making more power than the graph shows but not getting to the wheels (converter or trans slipping, etc).

I have no idea how a stock converter will work on the dyno since most have stalls. I am not sure how long the stock converter will last or how well the car will run with that converter either.

Does the car feel "fast" or do the #'s seem like about right for the way the car runs?

 

What is this log of? Is the car missing up top? Some of the upper RPM #'s (~6000+) are skipping around. Also, if this is a log of a dyno pull, why did you not pull past 6375? Where did the horsepower/torque peak? You should get the graphs and post them up. It's really hard to read the pictures of their computer screen. You also have some knock retard (as much as 3.5*) down low (~2500), but that is not causing a loss of power up top.

 

Looks to me like it is making power. It looks like it might be pulling vaccum at WOT, so if you have a chance put a vaccum gage on one of the vaccum lines and have someone watch it when you do a pull. Anything more than 1" should probably be fixed. I certainly don't think there is more than say 10hp there, but it is probably many issues combined that is causing this.

I would do the valve lash again, and just feel for when the up/down movement of the pushrod stops. This is zero lash. Make sure you do it with the engine hot, since different things can expand differently giving an inaccurate lash setting.

 

The 6375rpm issue is Datamaster. There is a Beta version (not sure if the full version is out yet) that can display the RPM16 which is accurate to 7200rpm (as high as I have pulled it).

RPMs jumping around can be either a bad opti or pigtail harness from what I have seen. Check for gunk or sludge in Opti harness receiver.

 

the data log that i posted up last night was not from the dyno it was from me cruising on the streets after the dyno... the car deff feels alot stronger than before and i did notice the 3 degrees of retard from the log and wonder where the heck is it comming from but the # did seem kinda low since i went 383 12.1 compression le2 and every engine supporting mod... except still have stock rear 323 and stock trans with stock converter but when telling the tuner that this combo should make 400 rwhp his comments were "youll be lucky to even make 350rwhp out of a lt1"

 

Been there and heard that before. Check out the rpm's jumping around problem. You may have a miss up top. Everything else looked good.

 

sorry for being a dumb as but what do you mean by rpms jumping around?

 

In the log when you go to full throttle, IIRC ~line 1108, the rpms are climbing and then they fall back down and then climb again. My work surf blocker blocked the site you posted it on, so I can't post up the exact spots. But they're something like:

5725
5875
6000
5950 <--- The rpms dropped when they shouldn't have
6075
6200

 

hmm ill check into it when i get the chance as for now im stuck at work till 10pm any other ideas other than valve adjustment,miss?

 

I bet the few degrees of knock down low are because you have a tight stock convertor still and probably the timing in the low rpms is still the stock settings so the motor is loaded up too early in the rpm band..need to back down some of the timing there all across the load/MAP spectrum for that rpm.oooor get a looser convertor.
That by itself would not account for the entire lose of power up top, but does contribute if that timing remains removed for a while but the timing is restored.

 

As was said above. Take it to the track. The mph will tell the tale.

 

i have to put my wheels on it for traction because now with those street tires forget it ill be everywhere