I just installed a 383 with H-beams and I have problems. When I started the engine it sounds like something is hitting the oil pan or I have a bad tick tick tick.
Can I remove the oil pan without removing the engine. I was thinking of supporting the engine with a engine hoist and dropping the subframe.
Any ideas would be great I really don't want to pull this engine again.
My builder thinks a mallet and or grinder should take care of the oil pan if that is what the problem is.

 

You shouldn't have to touch a thing. Take it to the builder.

 

The problem is a bought the motor from a guy in Texas and I live in Canada. Also I put the pan on.

 

Did you check if for interference when you installed it? My 3.75" Callies crank required a few gentle taps on the oil pan with a mallet. Not enough to even be visible.

 

No I was told to use the stock pan without the windage tray. When I called him about the noise right away he said he has seen this on 2 of the 70 lt1's he has built.
It sounds like its coming from the front of the pan maybe #1 or #2 rod bolts. Do you think that when I pull the pan I will see the contact areas. Or is it such small contact spot that I might me be able to see it.
I don't want to pull the engine and rotate it to check for clearence. I rather just beat and grind the pan and put it back on.

 

Not using a windage tray is a real real bad idea. That is what keeps your oil from getting agitated from crank rotation at higher rpm which can then cavitate your oil pump, starve your bearings and blow your engine.
I take it the reason why you aren't using the stock windage tray is because you are no longer using the stock studs on the main caps? If so then it may be in your best interest to get an aftermarket pan with a windage tray built in. If not then by all means you need to find a way to use your stock windage tray.

 

Yes you have to take the pan off and smack the inside of the pan to clearance for the rod bolts. When you remove the pan you will see the scrach marks from the bolts and thats where you will place the dimple. You will have the same issue when using the stock windage tray. You can shim the windage tray away from the rod bolts and you might check around the pan rail @ #7 for interfearance also.

 

I got the pan off and yes there was 2 lite grooves in the center of the oil pan. I looks like #1, #2 had a little clearence problem.

 

Don't put that stock pan back on without a windage tray. You need to get a pan that has a built in tray/screen and scraper. Personally I use Champ pans, very reasonably priced and they do an excellent job of oil control with built in baffles, trap door, and windage tray.

 

Guilty, I have been looking at new oil pans since the build really need to buy one for obviously reasons. Be kind of dumb to grenade a mediocre engine due to the oil pan.

 

jegs offers a 7.5 quart pan that is cheap and will work (jegs brand). However If you go that route make sure to notch the crank scraper where the dipstick inserts as it will interfer. On my motor that happened (dipstick was sheered by the rotating assembly) and had to take the whole thing apart to look for dipstick pieces, I think the engineers completely forgot about this possiblility of interference.

Otherwise this is an excellent option as its cheap and has a crank scraper and windage tray built in

 

The guy probably told him not to run the stock windage tray because it wouldn't clear the rotating assembly, I know I had problems with my 355 and stock windage tray with Eagle H-Beams. Just dimple where the scratches are and you should be good to go. If you are using stock studs you might try washers to space the stock tray further down so it clears.

+1 for Champ pans, I run one on my BBC.

 

How hard is it to put a aftermarket pan on with the motor in the car. To remove the stock pan I had to hoist the engine up off the mount and drop the k-member a couple of inches. There was not much room so I imagine it would be even harder with a large capacity pan.

 

It's not that much harder because the larger capacity pans aren't larger in the critical fitment areas like at the front of the motor where the k-member is. Depending on header style and pan type I have heard some issues with clearance though on the kickouts.

 

What was this shop you did business with?