The person who suggested that also suggested not running the newer Comp R's under any circumstances. Other hydraulic lifters don't break so easily.
Follow the blind? If you look at the date of my pictures, you'll see they were some of the first "new style" failures anybody heard about, especially if you don't follow the LS1 guys.

Secondly, I do happen to make my living as a Mechanical Engineer. Ever do any simple flat plate bending analysis? The retaining clips on each side of the lifter are narrow, thin and flat, giving them a tiny cross sectional moment of inertia about the horizontal axis. This reduces their bending stiffness and strength to zilch compared with a simple wire clip such as seen in stock lifters. So just a few little taps that wouldn't phase the latter in the least, can easily destroy these. Of course I have the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, but I really haven't a clue what Comp was thinking putting such a wimpy clip on a lifter they were going to tell people to run right close to zero lash. Somebody just dropped the ball big time IMHO.

One more thing: On the hot/cold thing. I prefer to set the valves one by one, cold, as I think I can do it most accurately that way. .004" preload cold, can easily turn into zero lash when hot. That's why I mentioned it before--Comp doesn't tell you hot/cold settings like a solid roller setup would, but when telling you to run such little preload, they really should. Running with my foot to the floor for extended periods of time on roadcourses will get the valvetrain components much hotter than street driving/drag racing ever should, so the hot/cold differences will be even larger.

 

If you read closely you'll find out that wasn't mentioned until I had already brought it up. I was questioning that poster especially since he is the one who started the sticky thread up top this forum. Please stop trying to spin this as if I'm solely to blame for you having to read yet another thread about Comp R's. It was a question for clarity sake. Don't like it? Don't read it.
Okay.. but that still doesn't explain how you lack any sort of concrete evidence on how they broke and would rather throw the blanket statement out that it's the lifter's fault.
Once again the question is raised as far as the success-to-failure ratio for these lifters. If you are in a minority then you will not be heard. I have mentioned that very thing as far as these clips not being as tolerant as the old ones several times in the past.
Yeah well... once again I guess if I go and set my lifters cold now and then go run a road course they'll be guaranteed to break? Whatever dude... Not everyone who has reported a failure gets their valvetrain as hot as you. It's quite possible not everyone has the ability to accurately adjust a valvetrain either. Not saying you couldn't, but once again... not everyone puts their motor through road course abuse.
The bottom line is mine are absolutely fine as well as many others who have been running them. They've served my purpose therefore I will mention that if this subject is brought to my attention.
Therefore I have said my peace. Arguing about how a product sucks to someone who has had success with it when there is no hard evidence as to why it sucks is pretty much retardetlyregoddamneddiculous. Therefore I withdraw and you may have the last word if you so desire.

 

Why thank you.
It doesn't explain why the sky is blue, either. Exactly what would you be looking for as "concrete evidence?" I was supposed to have a super-slow-motion video camera in the engine at the time of failure? Ship the entire engine off to a lab to do a CSI-style analysis? What, exactly?

The burden of proof should not be on the scads of people who can run any other type of lifter without failure but have failures with these. How about you prove every single person who has had a failure caused it themselves? You're the one saying there's nothing wrong with them, why don't you prove that?
Not half as retardetlyregoddamneddiculous as arguing to people who have had parts fail that there was absolutely nothing wrong with those parts without any evidence to back that up.

 

did you guys forget about this dudes 383 or what?

 

383 ?

Yes, I have seen my share of correctly lashed Comps R's go snap....I run an old set and they work great in my combo....The new ones are living on borrowed time especially if your shifting at 7k, like me!....Ellis and I, had never seen a failure on the new style R's and we were thinking people just don't adjust their rockers well....then we and other racers we know, started having failures and we quickly changed our minds....

NVETRO
I have found most power "ET and mile an hour" at 12-12.5 AFR on the street/drag. You would have to run a wide band or tune for that area on a dyno jet...In fact I would tune for 12 to 1 AFR with that cam on a dynojet. You'll pull a 1/2 leaner at the drags/street due to more loading....

 

Unfortunatly the weather did not hold up this past weekend to dyno. I will be going this weekend to see what she puts down with a new tune (knock sensor tuned out and leaned out about 1 point) and a dynojet shop that has a fan I'll keep you all posted and will post the graphs and datamaster.....

 

Guys I am back from the dyno after I had my knock sensor tuned out and the A/F leaned out about a point. I went to another dyno shop that had a fan and i did 5 pulls. She did better, but only put down 407rwhp/394rwtq. She DEIFNITLY was pulling better through the power band, the richness and knock retard was killing that, hell she didn't even fall off that much at 6300rpms. Below are the links to the dyno graphs for each run and the datamaster logs for each. What do you all think? I'm still missing power, the top of the graph isn't as choppy actually....i dont think its a possible rocker being to tight now:

Dyno Pull #1
Graph: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno1.gif
Datamaster: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno1.zip (Right click and Save Target As)

Dyno Pull #2
Graph: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno2.gif
Datamaster: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno2.zip (Right click and Save Target As)

Dyno Pull #3
Graph: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno3.gif
Datamaster: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno3.zip (Right click and Save Target As)

Dyno Pull #4
Graph: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno4.gif
Datamaster: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno4.zip (Right click and Save Target As)

Dyno Pull #5
Graph: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno5.gif
Datamaster: http://www.webideas.net/94transam/383dyno/drtdyno5.zip (Right click and Save Target As)

 

The numbers are getting better. It's all about the little stuff. You'll figure it out. I don't understand why a shop would give you dyno charts without a/f on them. What was your a/f? If you're not sure about the tune, I could take a quick look at it and make sure everything looks normal.

 

The dyno shop did not have the A/F module for the dynojet, so they had a stand alone unit i was monitoring. She was in the 12.25-12.35 range at wot through the band...

 

See how it runs around on the street and track at WOT A/F and adjust it to fit that, that will get it in the right place.

Bret

 

I mean according to their a/f she is about 3/4 of a point rich at WOT, that isnt alot of rwhp/rwtq, what maybe 5rwhp at the MOST? THe graph does look pretty smooth upto, which I am happy about. What do you think about the datamaster log for the 4th run, anything weird?

 

So, no e-pump, port matched only intake, cutout?. There's still maybe 15 rwhp with those two together...maybe another 10 (if you aren't already running it wide open now or threw true duals...) with cutout open....Looking a lot better now an I bet your getting happier...

 

If you're willing to travel down to Glen Burnie, MD I can give you a reputable f-body shop to have your car DYNO tuned to get to the bottom of this. That dyno #5 looks no bueno. Where's your rev. limit set at?
Not sure if you can credit the engine for doing "better" on a different dyno. The ramp rates look pretty much the same just with different peak numbers.
You have a PM w/ the shop contact info...

 

I have no idea what happened wth dyno 5. Prob my error, not sure what that dip was. As for the mods, I do have an e-water pump, and port matched intake mainifold by Lloyd. I do not have a cutout. My exhaust consists of Jet hot 3/4" long tubes, 3" jet hot y-pipe with no cats, SLP Loudmouth 1... I dont think thats restricting it :-D

 

bump...