I thought the 396 was like 3.875 stroke x 4.03 bore, and the crank was like 500 more if I remember my friend pricing the difference between the two

 

If I have to take 3/16 out of a critical spot that's one thing but if it goes to 5/16 or 3/8 that could open up the water jacket.

 

Ya are right they are only $997.00 for the forged. sorry

 

A 396 really doesn't cost the same... you have no options on what you are going to run for parts basically, except the few off the shelf ones, plus more machining and clearancing work.

Yeah say for example if you have a Eagle Forged Crank, SRP pistons and XXX 5.7 or 6.0" rod it's going to be really close.... but wait till you need a custom piston, or you run a Dragonslayer crank, or hell another rod with more clearance. Eagle now has a 4" stroke clearanced rod which is nice, but it also costs more. The Oliver and Lunati stuff is nice but ain't too many guys who are going to break "lower" class rods.... hell most people break rods from bad assembly. In the end the extra coin you put into the 396 bottom end could have been better spent put into the top end.

With that being said I'm waiting on a few parts to finish up a 396 long block motor for a customer, normally I just like the 383 and go from there, this one is a Dragonslayer, Custom Diamond Piston combo with Eagle H beams and the cam didn't even need a small base circle. Then again I got another 396 that has a Lunati crank and Carrillo rods, but I think the Carrillos are there for the cool factor (along with a lot of the other parts on it.)

Bret

 

Bret,
I’ve seen the 396 kits differ only $100 from a 383. Why would there be a problem if your ordering a kit form,,, most guys doing these setups are for the street and light track racing so no need for custom or exotic parts, plus you just said it that the H-beams cleared the cam with no issues, and as for the extra material being taken out the bottom of the cylinders, use block filler, its good practice anyways if your bumping up your power.
My opinion, if someone was looking to spend high dollar and wanted big power, I’d ditch the gen 2 blocks and go aftermarket block & heads, cheaper, better and more to choose from and modify the intake to fit the heads and call it an LT1.

 

Mostly because I don't order kits.... I don't like using certain parts because it takes longer on the prep of the parts and I fin more fitment issues. The kits can go together that way, but not by me. The H-beams cleared the cam because I do so creative work on specing out the parts, lets just leave it at that.

I'm not a big fan of being trapped into running a certain piston, basically you have a -5cc flat top with a 6" rod or a -14cc dish with a 5.85" rod in a 396, I'd rather have more options than that.

Bret

 

I agree with the aftermarket block idea. Ya could build a REAL small block then(454CID)
Ya need to have ground through a couple of blocks before touting a 3.875 stroke.Worse yet grind it and not know it is thin and a week later ya got a pan full of water.Then ya got to do it all over again out of your pocket, not the customers. There is no wonder that back yard mechanics of today loose interest--they don't want to keep doing it till they do it right.Hard block won't hold it if it's that thin,ya got to have enough parent metal there to make the epoxy hold.
Stock blocks need to be sonic checked before grinding. I charge $150.00 to check one and might check 6+ before finding a suitable one to build @$150.00 a pop and you bring me the blocks to check.Most guys don't want to pay that and that is why I don't fool with a 3.875 stroke engine,built in a LT1 block.

 

does anyone know if the eagle h beams are good rods and up to how much hp can they handle?
thanks

 

There is a lot of variation in the blocks. It is quite possible to hit water or end up with an unacceptably thin area even when clearancing for even a 3.75" stroke, let alone a 3.875". I had this happen twice and it is no fun. Once I was able to salvage the block, the other time I had to junk it.

Of the moderate price rods, the Lunati "Pro-Mod" seems to be the best for clearance.

Rich

 

Yeah, a lot of engine builders on here have vouched for their strength.

Along with racers like Big Daddy Dwayne Guthridge
http://www.hardcore50.com/racer_profiles/BigDaddy.htm

If 8.47 @ 171 on Drag Radials ain't proof I don't know what is?

Bret