Hey guys i need some help as im going to rebuild my LT1
I would like to build a 355 and make as much HP and TQ as possible within streetable limits.. but it does see track often
I have about 2500-3k to spend
I will not be doing any force induction and i highly higly doubt ill ever spray and if i ever do it will be something small like a 100 shot but like i said i doubt it.
Here is what im working with...I already have trick flow 195s assembled which i know kills my compression soo im hoping i can regain it somehow.. I wanna keep these heads if possible to help keep the cost down, I will just send them to get a valve job. I have a buddy who owns a machine shop so he will be good to me on prices for all this machine work.
I have CC 465 ( Small cam) now but im sure i can get a better cam for a 355 with those heads to make more power just dont know which one?
I have supporting mods LTs-Xpipe (full free flow)- walhbro 255 fuel pump 1.6 ratio roller rockers lifters and pushrods are about 2 years old when i put the heads on
Just wanna know what 335 kits I should get or build my own?
what brands forged/cast iron/hyper/ flat topped/dish/dome/size rod/pistion cc/ and etc
Do i need to convert it to a 4 bolt main?

Here a twist tho..im gonna convert to carb ( just dont know how many CFMS i should get for this build) no if ands or buts. i know the conversion will run me about 1k ( i have a buddy who is a manager at pep boys speed shop and he carries many performacen parts for SBC and carbs from holley and edelbrock)

I know this is alot but id greatly appreciate it
Thanks guys

 

What kind of HP you looking to get total? As for the carb that looks to be a set back of what your trying to do. The Lt1 is timed by the pcm to operate the firing and injection. Less gas and more power. I love a old 4 brl also but only in the older cars. But each car if different. I personally would stay away from edelbrock carbs.

 

Well Id be happy with low 400s to the wheels but if i can squeeze mid 400s ill be VERY happy... how about holley carbs?

also ive been reading and ive seen alot of people saying to stick with stock crank as its stronger then a scat or eagle one (obviosuly not stronger then forged but thats money) lol if i was gonna boost or spray like crazy then id spend the money on forged... but thats why im asking you guys whats better.

 

I think Fred had a great remedy for gaining good HP from a almost stock lt1. But again I don't think he spoke of adding a carb in there. I like holly's. Also search around for good deals for demon or quick fuel carbs for better throttle response at the track. As for the bottom end its pretty basic forged or not? I hear the stock crank will take some abuse and hold some good hp.

 

Your goals are stated in terms of rear wheel HP, so you have to tell us what trans you are running, so we know what you have to make at the flywheel.

Getting mid-400's through virtually any trans is going to be a major challenge with those heads unless you have them reworked. You can't take a moderate flowing head, with an oversize 62cc combustion chamber/low compression ratio, and make big HP. Trick Flow shows the "fast as cast" flow numbers as 253CFM @ 0.500, 254CFM @ 0.600. You would probably want something closer to 290 CFM. Advanced Induction indicates they can modify the TF 195's to produce 440-475rwHP, so that would be a way to make your goal. Lloyd Elliott can also improve their performance.

Advanced Induction - Trick Flow 195cc Street/Strip Head Package

LE Trickflow «

When converting to a carb, you will also need to convert to a conventional distributor. Getting it under the cowl may be a challenge. You will have to pick an intake manifold. GM makes an LT1 carb manifold, but it's a dual-plane. People have converted the Victor Jr. single-plane to the LT1 bolt/angle configuration.

A well-prepped stock crank, stock PM rods, and a set of hypereutectic pistons is about all you will need. If you insist on looking for 450rwHP, you will need a big cam, and a lot or RPM, so that could tilt you toward 4-bolt mains and a forged crank. Just a matter of reliability.

I haven't kept up with carbs, since I haven't run an engine with a true carb since the early 80's.

 

Running a carb, just build a gen I motor. Probably get more for your money.

 

Running a carb on the 4th gen Fbody is difficult, not only because of the distributor being crammed under the cowl, but also because of hood clearance with any type of air cleaner. IMHO, it just isn't worth ripping out the fuel injection and already good ignition to do it.

 

I'd be running either the 4l60e with the tci controller or a 700r4 all depends on finances.
What if I get a domed piston
I mean if there's no way other then I guess I'd have LE re work them.

When I bought this shell the guy before was running a carb gen 1 so the cowl was cut for a carb so there enough room.

Now would I honestly be able to make about the same power with a built gen 1 for about 3k it's ok if I go over a bit but I'd rather not.
My only concern with going gen 1 is does the lt1 bracket for AC and ps bolt right up? I've seen one picture with it.
Will my roller rockers fit a gen 1 what about the LTs.

 

Is the windshield wiper linkage still intact?

 

The wipers? I put the wipers back and created my owm brackets to support the passenger wiper which I don't mind removing