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Oct 9, 2007 | 08:59 AM

#16

97formulakid

Thread Starter

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Joined: Dec 2004

Posts: 1,310

From: Manhattan, KS

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam pace

Depends on your setup.
The bigger in cubic inches you go the more duration you will need.
If you stay with a kind of a tame cam, you will get decent fuel economy and have all the torque you will ever need on the street. This will be a very streetable setup.
Now, if you go with a wild cam in either one you will be not very streetable in either.
What are you trying to achieve, all Street car, Street/Strip or all out Drag Car?
Then everybody can give you the right answer.
BTW either one should work, how much are you looking to spend?

I'm not technically on a budget, but I don't want to dump 10 grand in a motor. The car is mostly driven on the street and sees the track maybe 1-2 times a year. Its hard to get to a track and the closest one is 2 1/2 hours away. If I lived closer to one I'm sure I would be there a lot.

I want it to still be streetable and fun to drive. If I wanted to jump in the car and drive across state to visit my sister then I would.

I would like to see close to if not over 400 RWHP on the heads and cam and then spray a 150-200 shot on top of that for the track or if I get some serious competition.

Oct 9, 2007 | 09:08 AM

#17

1racerdude

Banned

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 6,661

From: LA (lower Alabama)

The valve train will be the issue.
If set up with GOOD parts and a cam within reason(250@50) or so ya can drive it to California with NO problems 'sept the price of gas.

Oct 9, 2007 | 11:21 AM

#18

Vicious95Z28

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Joined: Dec 2000

Posts: 568

From: Elkton, Va

Quote:

Originally Posted by ABA383

I am going to disagree with the reliability portion of your thread as I have 12 plus years on my 383...My experience has been that when built right the 383 usually will last longer because of the lower rpms the motor needs to make similar power than the 355, plus it usually takes a bit more cam with a higher rpm power band to equal the 383...I take my car to 6300 and thats all I need to run what I run...

I will agree that it can be pricey, but any well built motor will be..I run Oliver 5.85" rods which greatly help the rod angle in the bores added by the longer stroke Callies crank. What I have seen on here are wayyy too many mismatched poorly built set ups in both 355 and 383 form.

It all comes down to preference and goals...I run 11.30s with a 383 with a small cam, ported LT1 heads, 3600 Vig and get 20 mpg highway..I'm going into my 13th year of racing/street driving, etc with no failures...

No matter which route you choose your success depends on proper parts selection and attention to details...

--Alan

THIS COULDN'T HAVE BEEN SAID ANY BETTER!

Oct 9, 2007 | 11:25 AM

#19

Vicious95Z28

Registered User

Joined: Dec 2000

Posts: 568

From: Elkton, Va

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS MPSTR

It should be referred to as a 385 CI engine. 0.060" over is a 388 CI with the same stroke.

YUP. YA BEAT ME TO IT!

Oct 9, 2007 | 11:37 AM

#20

ABA383

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Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 1,903

From: Littlestown, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by marshall93z

Alan, roughly how many miles are on that engine setup?

50,000 miles, but they were definitely not "easy" miles...I did have the heads re-ported on 2005, but the same LPE dual springs/titanium retainers were reused and the 211/219 cam was pulled in favor of the Joe O. 226/234...

--Alan

Oct 9, 2007 | 11:46 AM

#21

White96Z28

Registered User

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 242

From: Vegas

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS MPSTR

It should be referred to as a 385 CI engine. 0.060" over is a 388 CI with the same stroke.

You're right, it should be referred to as a 385. There have been multiple occasions where I have seen a .040 over motor called a 383 though. I guess I should have explained myself a little better.

Oct 9, 2007 | 12:33 PM

#22

JustNO

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 1,025

From: Europe

Quote:

Originally Posted by speed_demon24

Piston speed has to do with stroke and RPM, not bore or block strength. And a 383 and 355 have the same bore.

I didn't mean bore sorry , I mean wall thickness.

Oct 9, 2007 | 01:49 PM

#23

ABA383

Registered User

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 1,903

From: Littlestown, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vicious95Z28

THIS COULDN'T HAVE BEEN SAID ANY BETTER!

Thanks...I've just been around long enough to see a lot of crap being put together...It doesn't matter which way you go 355, 383, 396, etc..if its put together correctly with the right parts for the right goals for the car you will be fine...I happen to enjoy making good power/torque at lower rpms...some love to make a 355 scream..It's all good as long as its done right.

I went with an initially high dollar investment, but after all these years it doesn't owe me a thing...

--Alan

Oct 9, 2007 | 02:19 PM

#24

speed_demon24

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Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 3,245

From: Ocala, Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustNO

I didn't mean bore sorry , I mean wall thickness.

Ok and a 355 and 383 have the same wall thickness do I don't see what your point is.

Oct 9, 2007 | 02:25 PM

#25

JustNO

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 1,025

From: Europe

Quote:

Originally Posted by speed_demon24

Ok and a 355 and 383 have the same wall thickness do I don't see what your point is.

Okay I'm going to jump out the window

Oct 9, 2007 | 02:33 PM

#26

marshall93z

Registered User

Joined: Feb 2003

Posts: 2,639

From: Mooresville, NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by ABA383

50,000 miles, but they were definitely not "easy" miles...I did have the heads re-ported on 2005, but the same LPE dual springs/titanium retainers were reused

--Alan

Very impressive!

Oct 9, 2007 | 02:45 PM

#27

JustNO

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 1,025

From: Europe

Quote:

Originally Posted by marshall93z

Very impressive!

Yes but that not means every 383 can last that long. Thats a Lingenfelter 383

Oct 9, 2007 | 04:28 PM

#28

ABA383

Registered User

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 1,903

From: Littlestown, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustNO

Yes but that not means every 383 can last that long. Thats a Lingenfelter 383

What makes them good is the attention to detail throughout the entire process. They have one engine builder and he works in an operating room style environment. The entire process is incredibly meticulous and they use some of the best parts available...

If you've never been out there its real impressive and is a cool place to visit to see how they do it...

I'm sure they would put together a crate LT1 383 or at least a short block...If I ever do another one it'll be with a crate LPE shortblock as a starting point...I just talked to them today and they have seen an increase in LT1 383 packages over the last few months..mmmmmm...

--Alan

Oct 9, 2007 | 04:32 PM

#29

sam pace

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 416

From: Tampa, FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97formulakid

A 383 can be built at a reasonable price.
If you are going all new internals the price difference between the 2 kits is neglegable. Machine work wise you will spend a little more for the larger crank to be clearened in the block. Other than that the price between the 2 is very close.
Keep a close eye on the for sale section, there are alot of deals to be had at a great price. Keep your duration @050 below 240 and you should be fine.