i have a 1996 camaro z28...at the moment after i have a cold air intake and slp loudmouth exhaust...
over the summer im doing 3.73s
porting and polishing heads
503/510 camshaft
1.6 roller rockers
beehive valve springs
and pacesetter headers...

does anyone no what time ill be running 1/4 mile once im done with the build?

 

Not nearly enough information to make any educated guesses.

Who is porting the heads?
What are the specifics of the camshaft? 503/510 doesn't look very promising.
Auto or M6? If you're an M6 step up the gear size to 4.10s; if you're an auto you're going to need a big step up in stall speed, something like a ~3500.
Who is doing the tuning?

Also, it is far smarter to work backwards. Establish a goal for yourself (be it ET, HP, whatever) and emulate what other folks have done ti achieve those results. This way you leave nothing on the table and get exactly what you want with no surprises.

 

my dad he's ASE certified he's been working on cars for 34 years, hes done everything 355, 383 496s only problem is he wants me to put out the money and i dont have the type of money for a 383 build or anything like that...i showed him the ai heads and the TE2 heads i think thats what there called and he said he can port and polish himself to the those specs...its automatic i looking for a street car im not trying to throw a converter in. im aiming for low 12s...as far as tuning my dads friends with a guy name dr.marv the does transmissions that has a dyno and can do all the tuning...im looking for different ways to get to low 12s...

 

No disrespect to your dad, but just because he is ASE-certified does not mean he's going to give you a quality port job. Folks like AI and LE have been porting for YEARS now to perfect the art. It's not something someone can just up and do with a Dremel. Trust me when I tell you he can't achieve that type of precision. Chances are you can do more harm than good. Head porting is definitely something that should be left to the pros.

You are going to have a nightmare of a time trying to get into the low 12s with the stock converter, not to mention the drivability is going to suffer incredibly. Big mistake by not upgrading the converter. A good converter can be responsible for up to half a second - without it you're going nowhere.

If you want low 12s, just do bolt-ons and a 150 shot. That's the easiest no-hassle way of getting there.

My recommendation is get a heads/cam package from AI or LE, get a 3500 stall (do some homework by the way, a stall won't affect drivability or "streetability"), all of the supplemental bolt-ons, and a mail-order PCM tune from www.pcmforless.com before you go to the dyno.

Once again, no disrespect intended, but you're on the path to doing it wrong. Cheap, fast, reliable...pick two.

 

nott looking to spray im trying to do all motor... i just talked to him he said that hes port matching and polishing...he also said that a stall converter is gonna be horrible gas
mileage...
im looking to beat a 383 iroc-z 4 speed auto. thats pushing around 360, 370 to the wheels
and a 454 chevelle 4 speed. and pushing around 450 to the wheels...

 

I don't know what else to say. Good luck with your build.

 

If you are trying to be fast (specially with an auto) can't be too worried about mpg... also the 3.73 will hurt your MPG even more than a stall. Listen to the guys with experience. There is a lot of information here. I would say if you want to get into the low 12s need traction so some good tires and suspension bits would help and then some good heads and cam specially if you dont want to spray. Any cam big enough to get you into the low 12s will need a bigger stall than stock... They way it works is with a bigger cam you will loose lower end tq which you make up by having the stall slip (not really the term...) as a clutch in a manual would do in order to keep the engine on its powerband. Making matters worst once you get the traction needed to get into the 12s you will bug the stock stall even more.... and finally keep in mind that by bugging down the engine you are loading it far more making it use way more gas to start moving compared to having the right stall for your cam... You are changing the design of the engine and can't really expect what GM designed for stall to work at its optimum.

 

I guess another good way to get good MPG and MPH is reduce weight from the car...

 

Oh and spray doesn't affect MPG...