LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

3/8 vs 7/16 stud

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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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95z28man's Avatar
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3/8 vs 7/16 stud

Right now my LE2 heads have 3/8" rocker arm studs, but no rockers. My question is, should I keep the 3/8" in and just get the rockers and be done with it, or get all new 7/16" studs and rockers? Is there a big difference between the two?
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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Well, the difference is just 1/16th. But IMHO, that little bit larger stud makes me feel more comfortable at higher RPMs. But I am no engine expert. I'd swap to 7/16s.
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Yes do it, cheap insurance if you have to get roller rockers anyway.
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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7\16, once you hold them up to a 3\8 stud you'll smile and be happy you bought them
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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All for the 7/16. That convinces me. Thanks
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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one more for the 7/16

only an extra 40$ and they are more stable at high rpm's
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:03 PM
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OK, but do you have to change anything for the 7/16 stud? Like drill the heads out more? Or is the only difference above the part that screws into the heads? Is the stock aluminum heads capable of screw in, 7/16” studs with no mods?
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Shimaze
OK, but do you have to change anything for the 7/16 stud? Like drill the heads out more? Or is the only difference above the part that screws into the heads? Is the stock aluminum heads capable of screw in, 7/16” studs with no mods?
all you need are the studs and 7/16 rockers
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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I went from 3/8" to 7/16" stud. The bottom thread is 7/16" corse thread on all. Fine thread on top. Also, went from Crane gold 3/8" SA to the ProMag and PR plates due to larger trunion bearings. I have AFR heads, and, stock LT1 heads are the same. I reccomend a lock-tite on the stud. The Comp RR rocker locks were tall and forced me to use a Proform valve cover. Dress up the engine bay some. B.
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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I really think the important thing is to go from stock studs to aftermarket (ARP). Whether you get 3/8 or 7/16 I doubt makes much difference considering the forces and how they act on the rocker/lifter. However, if you're going to get some new studs and haven't yet bought rockers, you might as well get the larger ones.
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Use Never-Seize on the stud and torque it to spec. What springs do you run and what is the lift? The typical HR setup will do fine with 3/8" studs. Waste of $$$ if you don't need em, IMHO. It's not that they aren't stronger, 'cause they are (~36% stiffer) but whether it is needed.

Rich
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rskrause
Use Never-Seize on the stud and torque it to spec.
i was told to use thread sealant due to the studs slightly protruding into the intake ports on the le heads
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dangalla
i was told to use thread sealant due to the studs slightly protruding into the intake ports on the le heads
If they do, then use sealant. Don't use Loctite.

Rich
Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:33 PM
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dangalla- love that avatar. That rods gonna need some ointment...
Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rskrause
Use Never-Seize on the stud and torque it to spec. What springs do you run and what is the lift? The typical HR setup will do fine with 3/8" studs. Waste of $$$ if you don't need em, IMHO. It's not that they aren't stronger, 'cause they are (~36% stiffer) but whether it is needed.

Rich
I bought the heads from someone on the boards. They are LE2's with a Comp Cams camshaft, .510/.520 lift. I'm assuming that the springs are the Comp Bee Hive Springs mentioned on eportworks.com under LE2.



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