3/8 vs 7/16 stud
3/8 vs 7/16 stud
Right now my LE2 heads have 3/8" rocker arm studs, but no rockers. My question is, should I keep the 3/8" in and just get the rockers and be done with it, or get all new 7/16" studs and rockers? Is there a big difference between the two?
OK, but do you have to change anything for the 7/16 stud? Like drill the heads out more? Or is the only difference above the part that screws into the heads? Is the stock aluminum heads capable of screw in, 7/16” studs with no mods?
all you need are the studs and 7/16 rockers
I went from 3/8" to 7/16" stud. The bottom thread is 7/16" corse thread on all. Fine thread on top. Also, went from Crane gold 3/8" SA to the ProMag and PR plates due to larger trunion bearings. I have AFR heads, and, stock LT1 heads are the same. I reccomend a lock-tite on the stud. The Comp RR rocker locks were tall and forced me to use a Proform valve cover. Dress up the engine bay some. B.
I really think the important thing is to go from stock studs to aftermarket (ARP). Whether you get 3/8 or 7/16 I doubt makes much difference considering the forces and how they act on the rocker/lifter. However, if you're going to get some new studs and haven't yet bought rockers, you might as well get the larger ones.
Use Never-Seize on the stud and torque it to spec. What springs do you run and what is the lift? The typical HR setup will do fine with 3/8" studs. Waste of $$$ if you don't need em, IMHO. It's not that they aren't stronger, 'cause they are (~36% stiffer) but whether it is needed.
Rich
Rich
Use Never-Seize on the stud and torque it to spec. What springs do you run and what is the lift? The typical HR setup will do fine with 3/8" studs. Waste of $$$ if you don't need em, IMHO. It's not that they aren't stronger, 'cause they are (~36% stiffer) but whether it is needed.
Rich
Rich



But IMHO, that little bit larger stud makes me feel more comfortable at higher RPMs. But I am no engine expert. I'd swap to 7/16s.