Since this motor has been together(almost 300 miles on it now) the tranny went out(at 120 miles), then the optispark(at 290 miles, and it was brand new). I also get all kinds of KR at idle, its idling at 900 or so. If I bring it up to say 2000 rpm in neutral, it goes away. I can hammer it through all the gears and get a max of 6 degrees, I believe that is burst knock when I shift. I don't get alot of KR the rest of the time, but it is almost constant. The lower the rpm goes in neutral, the higher the KR.

My left BLMs stay around between 128-131 most the time. My right BLMs range from 121 to 144(?) If I have an exhaust leak, I can't really hear it.(it not out of the question)
I am running a new GM knock sensor and LT4 KM and have PCMFORLESS programming.

Could these two issues be related?
I am afraid to drive it, I don't want to do any damage to my new motor.

Meanwhile, I have been driving my beater, a '95 Mitsu Mirage with paint flaking off the hood and a 1.5L w/ an auto.
I don't want to drive this thing forever and my wife won't give up the GTP keys!

Any thoughts?

 

Well, first thing I looked for was the LT4KM.

How much timing are you running at WOT? Your compression ratio might be too much for your gas (I presume 93 octane), and your pcm is dialing in the nessassary timing retard.

That or maybe a tank of bad gas? I'd fill up with 100 just for grins, and when you know you've gotten most of the 93 out of the fuel rails, yank your pcm fuse for a few seconds, then run it and see if it still pulls timing out.

 

Swap the LT4 Knock Module back to stock and retest.

Listen for noise with a stethescope to all of the rotating accessories (alternator, power steeringpump, water pump, idler pulley,etc)

If your getting KR at idle something's afoul someplace. I had the same problem once and it was actually the PS pump gurgling because it had no fluid after the motor install. These things are touchy and the stupidest stuff can create problems.

Good Luck

Steve

 

as above, the first thing to do is determine if its real or false knock...empty your tank as much as possible and run some unleaded race gas through it. If the knock doesn't change, its false and something else is up. If the gas eliminates/reduces your knock you may need to get some more tuning...

 

I wish I could get 93 octane, 91 is all that is available here.
I think I am going to run some 104 octane race fuel through it once I run this 3/4 tank of 91 thats in it right now. I'll just add some octane booster for now.
I am also going to replace the right O2 sensor this week as well to see if it fixes the split blms.