LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

28" Tire Out Back

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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 02:57 AM
  #1  
InjectedSS's Avatar
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28" Tire Out Back

Im soo effin lost I get on Mickey Thompsons website and I swear they have like soo much crap to look at as far as numbers.. They will have like 28" tires but then the tread width will be like something completly different

Im trying to find the BIGGEST tire I can run out back without having to do MAJOR trimming... I dont mind some pounding and a little cutting here but NOTHING MAJOR.

Heres what Im looking at.

ET Streets:
#3754 SIZE 28x11.50x15 SIDEWALL 11.1 TREAD 8.6 DIAMETER 27.6
#3755 SIZE 28x12.50x15 SIDEWALL 12.6 TREAD 10.0 DIAMETER 28.1

ET Drags
#3055 SIZE 28x10.50x15 SIDEWALL 11.7 TREAD 10.0 DIAMETER 28.1
#3055W SIZE 28x10.50x15W SIDEWALL 13.1 TREAD 10.9 DIAMETER 28.1
#3057 SIZE 28x11.50x15 SIDEWALL 12.9 TREAD 11.0 DIAMETER 28.0

They are going on 15x10 Weld ProStars 7.5" B/S

Thanks
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 04:59 AM
  #2  
QCKZ28's Avatar
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what do you need such a big tire for?
im not familiar with your setup

jesse
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:24 AM
  #3  
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When you try to fit a tire with a tread width greater than ~10" the section width (sidewall widest point) will start to be an issue. The first three should be no problem as far as width. The last two would be iffy. If you don't plan major surgery, stay with one of the first three.

Do you need a 28" tire? A larger tire will significantly change your rpms through the traps and how much torque you are leaving with. In effect, an increased tire diameter will give you lower (numeric) gear ratio. For instance, I run a 3.42 gear. With a 26" tire 6,000rpm is 135mph with a 1:1 gear (4th on an M6, 3rd with an A4 or TH400). With a 28" tire, 135mph is 5,500rpm, and at 6,000rpm you get 146mph. And that's not accounting for tire "growth", which will be 1" or more at these speeds. I run a 27" tire because it gives me the desired rpm through the traps.

IOW, you need to think about your trap speeds and rpm range before deciding on a rear gear and tire combo. What tranny and rear are you running? With an auto, you also need to account for converter "slip", which amounts to a few hundred rpm depending on how "loose" your converter is. How much hp are you making and what is your anticipated trap speed? How high does your combo rev?

Rich Krause
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 08:20 AM
  #4  
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Well, if you don't want to do a lot of major work, count the #3055W out.

ET Streets and ET Drags are measured differently. I *think* Drags are measured by contact patch, Streets by total width. Not positive, but I know their widths are taken from different places.
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 10:20 AM
  #5  
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I've got 28x11.5x15 ET Streets on 15x8 Telstars, and I've got adjustable LCA's to get the right pinion angle.

I think the Weld's sit a little bit further back in the wheel well, so they might not rub the fender as bad as mine do.

I've got 275/60/15's for daily driver tires, and they fit on fine and only rub over big bumps, thats after I rolled the fender lip pretty good.

Trying to get the ET Streets on were a pain, when I jacked up the rear of the car, the rear end would drop down and forward and I couldn't even slip on the ET Streets, thats how close they were. Over 80 mph they rubbed like no tomarrow.

Finally I had to take a jigsaw and cut out about 2 inches all the way around the metal part of the fender, then fill the gap with spray foam, bondo the rest and paint it. I'll be damned if it rubs anymore.
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 10:43 AM
  #6  
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What fits on a 4th Gen F-Body seems to vary all over the map....

I ran Hoosier QTP 28x11.5-15's (28.0") on the Weld Pro-Star 15x10 7.5"BS wheels. They fit in the wheel well fine, and did not start to rub in the front metal edge of the wheel opening until trap speeds went over 120MPH. Then I had to use the adjustable LCA's to move the axle back about 1/4", problem solved.

I recently switched to the ET Drag 28x10.5-15Ws and it was major rework. The inner fenders had laready been hammered for 315 drag radials on 17x11 ZR1/GS wheels. But I had to hammer even more. And although the ET Drag was quoted at 28.1", it had to be way larger than that (maybe it was the fact I had added tubes??). I ended up removing about 1-1/2" of the rubber bumper cover to get adequat clearance.

But I have had people tell me they didn't have to do any hammering at all to fit the same 315/35's that required hammering on mine. I have had people tell me the exact same QTP's did not fit on their car without surgery to the rubber bumper cover (mine didn't).... so it varies from car to car. Unless you are shooting for the 9's, I would look at 27" tires. I think the "W"s are really overkill, and after seeing how much power they sucked up on the dyno, I sort of wish I hadn't gone quite that big.

Click on "Trailer Queen.... " in the sig for a photo.

Kain:

I'm curious.... how do you adjust pinion angle with adjustable LCA's?
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:32 PM
  #7  
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Originally posted by Injuneer
Kain:

I'm curious.... how do you adjust pinion angle with adjustable LCA's?
I can't claim that one. I took my car up to a reputable speed shop who's been around for ages to have my 3.73's put in. Before that I had my BMR adj-LCA's and relocation brackets put in, but I only had them in and eyeballed the distance to put them in.

Well the shop adjusted them and they got shoved a bit further forward in the wheel well, and they told me that they adjusted the pinion angle via the LCA's and stock torque arm.

I'm guessing what they did wasn't changing the angle between the drive shaft and pinion? If not, what did they change?
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:41 PM
  #8  
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The 27" seems to be a nice size for those of use who don't want to hack up their cars. I did take a slice off the inner lip of the bumper cover to avoid any possiblity of rubbing. The idea of a sudden tire decompression at 140+mph doesn't amuse me at all.

Rich Krause
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 12:46 PM
  #9  
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I am running the #3755 ET Streets. The outer fenders are flared to accomodate the tire and I had to butcher (trim) the lower wheelwells. The wheels are 10" with a 6 1/2" backspace and there isn't anything to spare.
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 03:49 PM
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I HAVE to have these tires.. I had to use a buddy of mines 27"s just to not shift into 5th trapping the 135mph I been trapping... Ill be trapping higher this year for sure...

M6 4.11's Running low tens shooting for high 9's this year..

So you guy's think that the ET Streets
#3755 SIZE 28x12.50x15 SIDEWALL 12.6 TREAD 10.0 DIAMETER 28.1
will be ok then?

Thanks for all the replys guys

Originally posted by rskrause
When you try to fit a tire with a tread width greater than ~10" the section width (sidewall widest point) will start to be an issue. The first three should be no problem as far as width. The last two would be iffy. If you don't plan major surgery, stay with one of the first three.

Do you need a 28" tire? A larger tire will significantly change your rpms through the traps and how much torque you are leaving with. In effect, an increased tire diameter will give you lower (numeric) gear ratio. For instance, I run a 3.42 gear. With a 26" tire 6,000rpm is 135mph with a 1:1 gear (4th on an M6, 3rd with an A4 or TH400). With a 28" tire, 135mph is 5,500rpm, and at 6,000rpm you get 146mph. And that's not accounting for tire "growth", which will be 1" or more at these speeds. I run a 27" tire because it gives me the desired rpm through the traps.

IOW, you need to think about your trap speeds and rpm range before deciding on a rear gear and tire combo. What tranny and rear are you running? With an auto, you also need to account for converter "slip", which amounts to a few hundred rpm depending on how "loose" your converter is. How much hp are you making and what is your anticipated trap speed? How high does your combo rev?

Rich Krause
Which 27"s were you running just outa curiosity? You say you didn't have ANY probs with them? I spin to 7K so maybe a 27 MIGHT be in intrest.
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #11  
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Originally posted by InjectedSS
I HAVE to have these tires.. I had to use a buddy of mines 27"s just to not shift into 5th trapping the 135mph I been trapping... Ill be trapping higher this year for sure...

M6 4.11's Running low tens shooting for high 9's this year..

So you guy's think that the ET Streets
#3755 SIZE 28x12.50x15 SIDEWALL 12.6 TREAD 10.0 DIAMETER 28.1
will be ok then?

Thanks for all the replys guys



Which 27"s were you running just outa curiosity? You say you didn't have ANY probs with them? I spin to 7K so maybe a 27 MIGHT be in intrest.
Hoosier Quick Time Pro #17510 27x11.50-15, 10.0" tread width, 27.0" diameter, 85.0" circumference, 11.2" section width.

Rich Krause
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 04:33 PM
  #12  
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Im running 28/11.50 15 with no fender or inner wheel well mods at all no rubbing what so ever. On 15 /10 welds with 7.5 back spacing
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:07 PM
  #13  
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Originally posted by n20ta2
Im running 28/11.50 15 with no fender or inner wheel well mods at all no rubbing what so ever. On 15 /10 welds with 7.5 back spacing
Really? Which ones were you using then? The Et Streets or Drags?
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:09 PM
  #14  
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I have the 28x12.5x15 ET Streets on my car with the 15x10 7.5bs Weld Draglights. I had to hammer the inside of the wheel wells and cut out the bumper stops for the rear. All of this wasn't too bad at all and just took a nice 3 lb sledge hammer to accomplish and a grinder. If you can find a plasma cutter it will take about 3 min to remove the bumper stops. The only part of the body I had to modify was the back bumper cover. I had to trim about 1.5" off with a jigsaw...this took about 5 min each side. The job itself was not that bad at all. These tires look bada$$ on my car, kill my gear enough to run the bottle, and hook like a ****.

Good Luck

Matt
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