Heading to work my ignition 10amp fuse blew twice within 5 minutes apart after about a 15 minute drive. Does anyone have any idea why that fuse would blow?

 

Look in your Owner's Manual for a list of devices that are powered through that fuse. One of them is shorted or the wiring connected to one of them is shorted. If you don't have an Owner's Manual, Shoebox has them online:

http://shbox.com/pdf/manuals.html

 

My car was doing the same thing.

The fuse runs to 3 things - the coil, ICM, and crank position sensor.

It's either a short in the wiring, or one of those 3 components.

Mine ended up being the ICM. Paid $5 at the junkyard for a coil and ICM off of a 97 chevy k1500 and didn't even replace the coil, as the ICM replacement fixed the problem.

Check the wiring to all those things and make sure it isn't messed up. Check the pink wire underneath the fusebox and make sure it isn't cut up and shorting out.

 

thanks man, how did you know that it was the ICM?

 

Well I ruled out the wiring seeing how the car would idle forever and rev fine, and I jiggled the wiring running to all 3 with no stall, which told me it wasn't a short in the wire.

Then I unplugged the crank position sensor, which ruled that out.

And from there it was just a guessing game. There's really no way to test because it happens intermittently and the car runs just fine up until it blows. If there's a way to test the coil and ICM, I don't know what it is, so I just went and bought both because they were super cheap, and I did the ICM first cause it was the easier of the two to replace.

Here's a video of my problem. It would idle forever but once I drive it a short while it would pop. Sometimes it would last longer than other times, so it was impossible to trace.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAvlYDcdQoE

 

Where exactly is the wiring for all 3? I know i know Noob question.

 

And btw, that infamous "pink" wire, does that also have relations to the engine sensor fuse? Reason im asking is because i blew that fuse once last summer.

 

No it does not.

The coil, ICM, and crank sensor, has a pink wire on each pigtail connector. That's what gives power to the devices, and if there is a short in the wiring leading up to the device, it will pop the fuse. I just looked closely at all the wiring and jiggled the entire harness on each device.

I mean my car has 145k on it and the coil and ICM are both stock, and we all know how much heat that ICM absorbs. I'm guessing mine just wore down and maybe got a little too hot and something shorted out inside.

 

So heres a little update. I drove home and right as i turn onto my street the fuse blows car turns off. So i put the clutch in pull into a parking lot and all of a sudden the car turns on and starts reving at 3500 rpm and acting super strange. I changed the fuse and while I had my hood up i could smell burning and gas type smell? After replacing the fuse the car took quite a minute to start back up. My check engine light also came on. After scanning that the p0335 and p0336 codes came up which indicate a crank position sensor.

 

If your car can start and run with a blown ignition fuse then somebody has hacked up your wiring. The car can not run with this fuse blown.

 

??? I never said my car started without the fuse. I replaced the fuse everytime it blew or it wouldn't start.

 

I thought you meant that when you were pulling in, the car started back up.

 

Yep, there wasn't anything there that said the fuse was replaced before the engine came back on. Confusing.

 

Opps my mistake. What I said was correct. The fuse blew, while pulling into the parking lot the car DID randomly turn on and start reving and making weird noises until i turned the key completely off all while the fuse had just blown.

 

This might be a long shot,but do you have an aftermarket alarm system?Try disconnecting it for a while.I'kinda drunk right now.But,hope this helps.