Drew

Didn't know Innovative Wiring did not make a EWP harness for F-body. 20+ years ago I made my own from a Painless Wiring fuel pump relay kit. IIRC the EWP draws about 7-8 amps so you could just buy a relay/fuse combo rated for at least that and wire it up

IIRC I taped into a "pink" wire that is +12v KO for relay trigger and the AUX 12v post that is next to underhood fuse/relay box on a B-body for the +12v main power to pump. IDK if F-body is the same. Then EWP to ground and + to the 12v + side of the relay using a inline fuse on that wire. At the time there as a online write up (WS6??) for a F-body I based my install from. I would assume there is one on this site somewhere

So your old motors RMS adapter was FU and machined off center....wow

 

Yeah, all of that pain and struggle to get the RMS sealed, and it was the housing. Kick in the *****, double time.

There was a post that had a diagram, but the pic is no longer available.

Thanks Eric. The under-body was sprayed with bed-liner. It added about 2lbs to the car, but the road noise is SO much quieter. I had pretty much everything off the car, cleaned the crap of it, then sprayed it.

 

That's fantastic. Do you also have sound mat installed under the interior? Reducing road noise is one of my goals also.

 

I did not. I can only imagine how much quieter it would be with both.

 

Hey Drew do you have pics of all of your nitrous setup and how much do you want for everything as I'm getting ready to install my new engine in my f-body?

 

You would need to locate some items. I have a TNT setup, but the plate broke (the system was used when I bought it and there were cracks where the nozzles threaded in.

I have the nozzels, jets, 10lbs bottle with a NOS highflow valve, Nitrous Express heater and opener, Autometer electric pressure gauge, all the lines, solenoids (including purge), and an older Maximizer progressive controller (Palm controlled). I really just want it gone and would take $300 for everything. Note that the system was installed, but due to the issues with the car, never run. If that sounds good, I’ll snap some pics. PM me please.

 

Great photos - thanks for taking the time to post your progress!

 

Question: the TorqHead stuff will be here Tuesday, how much oil would I expect to come out of the opti hole if I primed without it? Can the seal be cleaned with brake clean if oil was to get on the seal, or would I need to replace it?

 

its a PTFE seal Drew...supposed to be installed "dry"....IDK what, if any, effect some form of cleaner would have on it. You could just tape the edge and then just tape over the hole as I doubt there is anything more than "splash" oil hitting that area for a prime

Can u wait until the TH is on (uses the Opti for trigger right?) and then prime the motor

are you just using a prime tool on a drill to prime it or just cranking motor over?

if so I doubt any oil is going to get on that seal

 

Yeah, just priming with a drill. I want to get the prime done before the engine goes in the car so I can seal the intake on the stand.

I’ll try the prime and check for mess, stopping if does anything crazy.

 

Got the beast in today, not terrible, but I highly suggest not using a leveler to allow cowl clearance.





what on Earth do I do about the oil level sensor? The Jethots cleared, not so much with the Kooks:


Just take it out, cap it and be vigilant about checking the dipstick and pressure?

 

Great job! That’s too close for my comfort with the oil level sensor though.

 

yep just pull & plug it. OP gauge is what really matters, you can check your oil

 

Thanks! Now if only the speed shop was open on Sunday!

 

IDK if that is a metric or NPT thread but Home Depot likely has something, likely in brass.