LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

1995 383 stroker lt1 with NV3500 trans and centerforce clutch

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Old Aug 13, 2021 | 05:09 PM
  #1  
gripexlt1's Avatar
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1995 383 stroker lt1 with NV3500 trans and centerforce clutch

HI there guys, new here, looking for some help with a problem that has plagued my truck for a long time.

Its a 1988 gmc 2500 4x4 pickup with a 95 stroker lt1 in it and a 5 speed nv3500 tranny and centerforce clutch

Having issues with full disengagement of the clutch. When i push the clutch in its hard to shift gears and wont go into reverse with out shutting the truck off.

New master, new slave, new line, etc. The pivot ball has been shimmed slightly as well, but i dont remember by how much.

Problem first arose in 2006 and i havent really driven it since, just used it to plow snow and do a bit of 4x4'ing. Now looking to figure out the problem

Motor/tranny combo worked fine at first, before it was a stroker.

Motor was built in 2006 and is a forged stroker with a externally balanced flywheel. Im thinking this flywheel is thinner than the original, and maybe i need a different throwout bearing or longer pushrod on the slave? Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks
Old Aug 14, 2021 | 01:07 PM
  #2  
Chimera96's Avatar
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Re: 1995 383 stroker lt1 with NV3500 trans and centerforce clutch

Your problem is typically failing hydraulics be it MC or the slave

Shimming the pivot "T" may be your problem...not something that is done generally but IDK about the 3500 trans...maybe it needed to have the fork stand off more vs the T56

If you feel your FW needs to come out more, get the shims that you put between it and crank

that 3500 will die quick behind a 383 so drive it gingerly.

Also those CF clutches with weights are pure crap IMHO, especially on a LT1 "pull" clutch.. They will cause more force resulting in harder disengagement especially at high RPM

You might try a MC with a adjustable rod so you can get more pedal stroke which may allow the clutch to fully disengage. McLeod makes a very nice one using a Wilwood MC. If your fork starts to then buzz the PP that you would need to remove that shim under the pivot T
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