Hey all, these times and trap speeds seem a tad off for my mods. Are they or is it just me?

I just went to the track for the first time, Great Lakes Dragway in Union Grove, WI, and my best time was a 13.286 @ 105.07 with a 2.144 60' and a RT of .233 (with .000 being perfect) Some of my other times were:

13.738 @ 105.15 - 2.353 60' - .619 (this was my first run, ever being timed
13.614 @ 105.28 - 2.224 60' - .547
13.538 @ 104.74 - 2.190 60' - .330
13.488 @ 104.68 - 2.180 60' - .282

My car has as follows:
Stock 350, ported and polished stock heads, FLP longtube w/ORP, LT4 Hotcam, Comp "R" lifters, Comp 1.6 Gold RRs, Cloyes Double Roller Timing Chain, K&N FIPK, Ported and Polished stock MAF, !AC, !EGR, 2800 Stall Torque Converter, Stock A4, 3.42 Series 2 gears, TA Cover, Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back with cut-out, and crappy street tires, Dunlops, PCM tune by PCMforLess.com

Should I be running better than that? I would have thought that the 3.42 gears would have put me at a higher trap speed. Being my first time at the track, I know I have to get my 60's down better, but what else could I be doing better?

I think I am having a problem running too rich, I flutter at idle and sometimes when I'm not at WOT. I think that may have also adversely affected me. THoughts??

 

What year is your car dude?

 

Hot and humid weather sucks.

 

You should for sure be trapping faster then that. The ET is more of a result of how your driving skill/traction is, but the mph points to the HP that car is making. I am trapping pretty consistent around 107mph with hotcam/long tubes. Stock heads/intake. You should really check into some tunning or maybe a lt4 KM if you dont already have one.

Aaron

 

car is a 1997 with less than 40k on it. And I do already have the LT4 cam with all the springs and shiet.

The weather was around 70-75*, I guess it could have just been the track. Guys who said they were normally in the 10s were running 11s so maybe that's what I'm seeing.

 

You have ported and polished heads, longtubes, and a stall. You should see 12's ALL DAY!

 

I'm gonna see if i can dig up the track temps and air pressure from yesterday, it's not on the time slip.

EDIT: I think it was around 72* with around 60-70% humidity

 

The guy earlier was talking about an LT4 knock module, it is a sensor that detects engine knock or "noise" and then adjusts the timing accordingly. With your 1.6 RR's and Comp R lifters (which I hear are noisy) it seams very possible that you are getting enough noise that the sensor thinks is detonation and it is pulling timing. Buy an LT4 Knock Module, it is less sensitive than the LT1 knock module and only costs about $35. Two screws to pull the computer loose and two more to remove the knock module, piece of cake. Goodluck and let us know.

 

Check the adjustment on the R lifters. Make sure you are at zero lash with 0-1/16 turn. No more than that. if you are more, it can hurt the performance.

 

gotcha, I will see about getting a KM (now I know what that means ) this weekend and I wanted to check valve lash as well, they seem to be real noisy.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input.

 

You also need some sticky tires to get your 60ft down. Which you already know. If you get your 60ft down to 1.7- 1.8 you can expect to go into the high 12s Also if you are runing rich. lean out a little and you will go a little deeper into the 12s. Do yo have an adjustable FPR? Do you have any way to scan the car while driveing the car? Did pcm for less desensitize the Knock sensor in the programing any? Also staging shallow will help a little. That is just pulling up to the line just barly enough to make the 2nd light to come on. But that will slow you reaction time down a little. Also you have the car moving a little more before you start the clock.

 

Working on the sticky tire issue, I don't know if PCMforLess desensitized my knock module, i don't have a scanner trying to get a hold of LT1edit for my laptop, I don't have an adjustable FPR, I should get one huh.

Thanks for the tips.

 

you only need the afpr if your injectors are running at too high of a duty cycle and even then its just a crutch to help you supply the motor with fuel. otherwise its completely worthless because the computer tunes the air fuel so any increase in fuel pressure you create its just going to adjust for. and i dont know how tall your tires are but since i've been looking into it... it seems to me like a 4.10 ratio gear should work very well in an auto car if you can hook it. with a 26" tire and your trap speed using 4.10's you'd be crossing the lights around 6k. time you start trapping 115 or so you'd wanna step up to a 28" or so tire and that would again take care of your revs. just my .02

 

tires are stock 245 50 r16 Dunlop SP9000s or something like that.

I don't wanna run a 4.10 gear in my car seeing as how I do drive it around town, I don't wanna run out of gears cruising down the street.

I'm inquiring now with Bryan from PCMforLess about my tune, so I should have more answers about that soon.

I have a bad O2 sensor, so that may be one of the reasons, or so I suspect. Gonna check that out this weekend along with the valve lash.