If you think getting a 4th gen to 2900lbs WITHOUT driver is easy or free, think again...a 2900lb RACEWEIGHT....is DAMN expensive, VERY few have achieved that. Even with a stock 10 bolt.

Aerospace brakes
Chromemoly or aluminum EVERYTHING!
Kirkey seat (ONE)


A shortblock for $2000? A nice stock rebuild with forged pistons costs almost that.

$1600 for a 4L60E AND converter? Better buy two, one in the car and one being rebuilt.

I gotta tell ya, guys that have done it or VERY close to the 10's all motor will tell ya...you may build a one hit wonder for that money, but a sreetcar that can drive around, run in the high 10's low 11's is HARD to do.

David

 

The ones that say it's easy have never done it.They just have BIG ideas of what is done and listen to and take what is said by other people say, as to what is done for a car to be that fast as (IE "just running a 50 shot") it is as gospel. Truth may be that whoever said that may be running a 300 shot.

 

Refer to the above post. Ya must have overlooked it.

 

...and like it was said before, if it were that easy everyone would do it...Hell, even low 11 second street cars are a novelty around here...It adds up very fast...So fast that, for the sake of my marriage, I stopped adding...I am still trying to do more with less, but less is getting to be a lot less frequent now...

--Alan

 

8.83 is my best time. On slicks of course. About 60K and 2.5 years.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/362267


Sign my guestbook !

 

I guess what I was saying above is that if you gut the hell out of your car to a lightweight tin can and do not replace anything you could do it for cheaply but you wouldn't do it for long without breaking something. It still costs you to go fast and there is no way of getting around that.

I know of a few bolt on LT1 cars with hardly any money in them (no tubular K-members,etc and very little purchased parts--got the car down to 3200lbs with a 250lb driver with no money in aftermarket parts) running 12.0's@113mph in decent weather and they will probably go 11.8's in great weather this fall. The lightweight cars can run very good numbers a lot more easily than a car that weighs 400 lbs more and you will break less parts.

Aba383 (Alan)--you could easily hit 10's with your combo with a 400lb weight reduction and good weather. But like many of us we would rather have more of a streetable car than run the number at the track.

I built my car to run high 9's and still be streetable so I went the bottle baby route. I have never had to spray anyone on the street that was not a planned type run so running mid 11's has been good enough around these parts as far as a cruiser is concerned.

Besides if you have a car that runs high 10's NA on the street I can guarantee you won't that kind of number on the "street" and might get whooped by a high 11 sec car that does hook.

 

Yes to many of these posts. And my 10.02 second full weight street car is now down because even the best quality parts can break. Cars that run this quick are high cost/high mantainence. There is a partial way around it - light weight and a big block. But the only way to do this cheap does not produce a "street car". My bracket car runs high eights and gets up to 100 passes per year with very little maintainence. But it weighs 2100lbs (with driver) and has a big block. You could buy it tomorrow for $20,000.You could go a lot faster with a bigger big block and still keep the reliability. But it is a race car.

Making a reliable 10 second ride out of a street car is very expensive, no way around it. The cheapest way is N2O, but that simply isn't as cheap as it looks until you actually go to build it.

Rich

 

and you would still consider that a street car

perfect, as far as i am concerned /thread

 

I'm still a dreamer when it comes to a 10 second street car. But for me, it takes nitrous. If you count the cost of the car, 23k new, add the trial and error, plus the cost of what works, plus shop time for most of it but not all, I'm at 40k. Even with that and some more work to barely crack the 10s, I'll still have to replace the trans, rearend, and install a bar to be legal at the track. That's another 5k easy and I'll still have a stock shortblock. The good news is, the car is still in nice shape (30k) with air, drives almost like stock and could pass emissions if I had to. Not required anymore.

 

Nope, I would not but a lot of people do.

The only creature comforts I am missing is my AC, ABS, and power steering. I miss the AC but the car is a lot easier to work on now. I love cars that are fast as hell that still retain all of the factory bells and whistles.

 

That is exactly why a new ZO6 is the deal of the day.

 

You can look at it like this to have a 10 second normally aspirated streetcar.....

Take the *** whippin up front, save up and pay for all the good stuff the first time you build it, spend the time to do it right and enjoy the car when it is done. It may take you 3 times longer to do it right the first time, but it's worth it.


OR



Strip your car, shortcut it every chance you get, buy half assed junk, half azz build it. Have a one hit wonder(10.99999 ONE time if you are VERY lucky) Have it break every 2 weeks, and pay 3 times as much money than if you had built it right the first time and suffer with working on it all the time.


I prefer the first option.


David

 

I'm 45 years old. Playing with fast cars for 30 of them. Until the past decade or so, cars faster than 12s were stripped down cars with high compression = race fuel - not comfy for long rides.
We've evolved tremendously to now, but an old rule of thumb was "once you're into 10's it's about $10,000 a tenth"
Meaning improving a stock car is inexpensive with great reward, building a "bolt on" car to perform well takes equal research and money, building a "street/strp" car into the low 11's is an expensive task best handled by experienced mechanics - and anything quicker is just plain going to cost big bucks, and makes "street car" a blurry statement.
The low hanging fruit is a bolt on car.
Put a well built motor and a lightened body within those bolt on's and you have about the most cost effective fun machine.
Power adders are not for a novice and accelerate parts beakage.
So to the original poster: with your M6 LT1 in street comfy form, low 11's will take a good deal of reasearch and money spent on the higher quality parts.
Keep reading and keep thinking.....those are both good things to do.