what is needed and is it possible to run a 10 or dang close to it with a lt1 car n/a? with the stock heads(le2)? i know a stroker would be in demand but if possible what are some other things i would need if its even possible. im sure some have done it but i dont want it to be a trailer queen.

i know suspension and rear end are a must so i have that in mind already but i was mostly talking about what to do to get the power i need.. thanks in advance

 

lose some weight
get some good drag shocks (competition engineering 3ways are good )
toque arm
subframs and lower control arms
lose some more weight
a set of slicks and skinnies on light weight drag rims
def a bigger stall than what you got in there
a good tune
lose some more weight
and personally id go with a 58 mm throttle body
but i have a stocker right now so thats just me
anyway practice practice practice
and really good wheather
and really well preped track
i think it can be done

 

ohh and going witha bigger solid roller valve train will help ya get there alil easier

 

aren't head/cam cars suppose to be in the 11's easily?

anyways just like stated above, lose some weight, a well working suspension, good clutch/torque convertor, bolt-ons, lots of practice and track conditions.


im with you 1badasz, im trying to get in the low 11's, high 10's.

 

396 with LE3 heads and proper suspension would get u there

 

Super sticky tires and short gears will net some impressive times. Not so good to drive across the state but will make for good ET's.

 

My current mission is to hit 10's w/ what is in my sig below. I should be able to reach that goal later this year or early next year.

 

I'm in the same boat as Javier^^^...Going with 4.10s and 28" M/T DRs...and might look into getting the Vig 3600 re-stalled to 4000-4400...Its all in the entire combo...You must match the cam, converter and rear gear...Weight reduction is always good, even though I'm at 3650 with me in it, and a well thought out suspension, wheel/tire combo...A trap of 120 is generally good for a 10 second run IF everything else is working as it should under near perfect conditions...A 10 second N/A run in these cars is a big number, but is attainable...

My problem is I'm not willing to sacrifice my A/C, heat, power windows, steering, radio, etc...and I'm still too cheap to buy springs and shocks...

--Alan

 

You don't have to get that crazy to run a 10 sec quarter. It's relatively easy. I've got Lingenfelter 192cc heads with 2.0/1.56 valves, flat top pistons, 3.875 stroke, and a comp street solid roller. Well, there's more to it than that but I haven't even begun work on the chassis yet.

 

so what is some of the stuff that most people remove to reduce weight? back seat and weld wheels..already did that. was thinking about going with tubular k member and arms also. does the a/c and power steering hold ya down that much? if its only worth .2-.3 tenths it aint worth that to me, but if its a big difference ill remove it. is a solid roller necessary or can it be done with hydraulic?

 

oh and one more thing it wont be my everyday car unless something happens to my truck but i do wanna still be able to drive it when need be

 

It can be done with hydraulic. I'm going to make it happen Others have as well anyways..

I can also drive my car to work if need be, etc.

chrism... raceweight?

 

The easy way is to build a nice heads/cam setup ..(LE2 or 3 )with a good crank, rods pistons etc.., full exhaust, dyno tune, built trans/3,500 converter, Drag wheels with ET streets and a little suspension tuning, add n2o, hell I ran 10.80's@126mph (150NX)with LE1 heads, LE2 cam, stock bottomend, stock 3.42 geared 10 bolt and stock suspension back when I drove the car every week. But to run 10's on motor will take some sacrifices in streetability, still streetable but I will be able to tell you more when I finish my project in the next few weeks that should run 10'sN/A. I have been 11.15@121mph N/A with an old hydraulic CC306 setup for n2o. I plan on bringing my car home tommorow since I finished the suspension, rearend, engine etc... and I still need to redo the brake lines (ABS delete) install linelock, tune the engine then off to the track to get some results. Later

 

I have no idea. It's nothing crazy as most of the interior is untouched. I did remove the pass seat, front and rear bumper supports, sound dampener under the carpet, pass airbag, and a/c compressor. It still has the stock k-member and pretty much everything else. I even use the stock salad shooters on the rear with skinnies on the front. I weigh 205 on top of all of that.

 

Doesn't sound too extreme, very nice times

I'm gonna try to crack those 10's with a full interior, except maybe the back seats. I want to only take out enough weight to compensate for the cage going in soon.