I would say your going to want 1 7/8 headers or at least a 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8.

 

Thanks for the advice! Keep us updated when you dial the car in.

 

I'd use the smaller tubed headers, many cars are "over-header'd". the smaller header will not be such a performance killer as an over-header'd engine will be. I know of many Stock eliminator f-bodies that are running mid 10's and better with 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" primary tubed headers.

 

Glad you got it together jake.

 

Are you using FAST or similar? Sounds like a killer combination.

 

Easy. I said I was trying to understand. Obviously, for anything over 7100, the factory pcm isn't going to cut it. Are there any plans to return to fuel injection, or will you stay with the carb?

 

Glad to see you got it running and down the track, Mike.

Nostang, you have a PM.

 

Leaning towards Gen 7 DFI as it looks the most user friendly. I will engine dyno it with a carb when it is completed probably sometime in Oct.

 

I have a brodix HVH set up for fuel injection but fogger placement is going to be a issue.







I sold the 39lb injectors that were in it I need a 45-50lb injector and the fast ecm's are a little pricy. I was going to do a dart block because of the times I want to run but then the LTx Shootout got going last year so I stuck with the LTx block, didn't have the money to mess with the fuel injection before the shoot out so a friend said I could use his carb. Ordered an intake and still wasn't ready for the shoot out. I should be there next year.


Yes it's about time. I'm happy so far just wish I would have got a full pass on the 100shot. But almost lost the hood. I did away with the factory latch and only put in two hood pins. The new starter went out a week after I got it, so I was afraid to shut it off in the lanes I guess the one pin just vibrated out. When the drivers side of the hood lifted about a foot in the air I got a little scared and hit the brakes before the 1/8. Still went 10.9

 

Did you go with a 6" rod or a 5.85" ? I thought I was going to need the shorter rod but LME wanted to benefits of a 6" rod and said the pistons will still have enough material above the top ring. I would have liked to see the piston they stuck in here. Because with the deep valve reliefs I'm a little worried about pushing it.

 

I went with a 6" for the same reasons. There looks to be plenty of meat left on the pistons for the 250 shot I plan on running. my valve reliefs were only 3.4cc's as I needed to keep them small to reach my desired compression in a flat top piston. Yours are probably very similar to mine. I have some pics I can send you if you would like a look.

 

I wouldn't mind seeing them. I know the valve reliefs are fairly deep on mine. The cam is over .700 lift roughly 270 280 duration.

My email is smzjacobs@iowatelecom.net

 

That cam sounds more like a N/A cam 106 lsa is very tight. I would widen it up a bit for spray. A 250 shot is not major but a wider lsa would be better in a nitrous motor. That is if you are going to use it as a mostly N20 motor. We used a fogger on a 106 cam and it blows alot of that right out the exhaust. Picked up with a wider lsa.

 

Yeah it is def more of an NA cam. I will run it NA 95% of the time as this is more of a street car. I don't mind sacrificing 20-30hp on the bottle for a little more NA. BTW, how much did you lose NA with the nitrous specific cam and how much more did you gain?

 

couple tenths. we changed converters right before the cam change, it helped the 106 cam and really woke up after the new cam install. I think it was running like 6.10 in the 1/8 with old cam to like 5.80s after cam change. Was less violent as well. That was in a car we used to run, heads only flowed 270 lol. Have learned alot about spray since then, we didnt even flow the fogger back then