1.6 RR install.....sorry....
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 515
From: jacksonville, FL
Man I love this board! So much info to be learned! One last question remains tho....
If cylinder #1 and #6 are both at TDC right now, which valves do I adjust? Or which cylinder is REALLY at TDC?
If cylinder #1 and #6 are both at TDC right now, which valves do I adjust? Or which cylinder is REALLY at TDC?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 186
30thann -- No, you've got it confused again. Re-read the thread.
You cant have both #1 and #6 at TDC at the same time. Only ONE cylinder can be at TDC -- not both. Ignore what Ibanez wrote about both cylinders being at the top of their travel at the same time -- thats not the same as TDC. You need to find TDC before you can adjust the valves.
Finding TDC:
-Method 1: As I've said three times, put both dots on the cam/crank gears at 12:00 -- that's #1 cylinder TDC (compression stroke).
-Method 2: you can tighten down two rockers on cyl #1 in order to watch the valves. If both valves are closed with the crank at 12:00 -- good, that's TDC (compression stroke). If the exhaust valve is open, then you need to rotate the crank one full revolution to get #1 TDC.
THEN you can follow any of the aforementioned rocker adjustment procedures. You can either adjust one cylinder at a time, or you can adjust using two crank positions to adjust various valves. When using a larger cam, I would not recommend adjusting all the rockers at two crank positions -- I would do each cylinder one-at-a-time (at TDC).
You cant have both #1 and #6 at TDC at the same time. Only ONE cylinder can be at TDC -- not both. Ignore what Ibanez wrote about both cylinders being at the top of their travel at the same time -- thats not the same as TDC. You need to find TDC before you can adjust the valves.
Finding TDC:
-Method 1: As I've said three times, put both dots on the cam/crank gears at 12:00 -- that's #1 cylinder TDC (compression stroke).
-Method 2: you can tighten down two rockers on cyl #1 in order to watch the valves. If both valves are closed with the crank at 12:00 -- good, that's TDC (compression stroke). If the exhaust valve is open, then you need to rotate the crank one full revolution to get #1 TDC.
THEN you can follow any of the aforementioned rocker adjustment procedures. You can either adjust one cylinder at a time, or you can adjust using two crank positions to adjust various valves. When using a larger cam, I would not recommend adjusting all the rockers at two crank positions -- I would do each cylinder one-at-a-time (at TDC).
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Mar 29, 2004 at 04:28 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,428
From: Woodstock,Georgia
Originally posted by ibanez6rg
Just read up on this.
Adjusting Valves and Zero Lash
Method 3
Another cylinder by cylinder method that does not require looking at the balancer position, follows:
(A remote starter switch is quite helpful)
Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the exhaust lifter for a cylinder starts to move up, then adjust the intake valve to zero lash and add your preload. Turn the engine over again until the intake opens completely and then is almost all the way back down. Now, set the exhaust valve to zero lash and add your preload. Continue the above procedure for each cylinder until all valves are adjusted to the same amount of preload. This procedure will work for any hydraulic lifter cam with adjustable rocker arms.
Shoebox
Just read up on this.
Adjusting Valves and Zero Lash
Method 3
Another cylinder by cylinder method that does not require looking at the balancer position, follows:
(A remote starter switch is quite helpful)
Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the exhaust lifter for a cylinder starts to move up, then adjust the intake valve to zero lash and add your preload. Turn the engine over again until the intake opens completely and then is almost all the way back down. Now, set the exhaust valve to zero lash and add your preload. Continue the above procedure for each cylinder until all valves are adjusted to the same amount of preload. This procedure will work for any hydraulic lifter cam with adjustable rocker arms.
Shoebox
Use this method and you dont have to worry about TDC....I do it this way and it always is right. No thinking involved here
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 515
From: jacksonville, FL
Originally posted by rpm4lalo
That is misleading, I would only use the above to change valvesprings, not to adjust the valves. You see when the crank dot is at 12 o'clock then you can remove the valve springs on the 1 and 6 cylinder since you don't have to worry about the valve falling into the cylinder. Then you turn the crank to 3 o'clock and remove the 5 and 8 cyloinder valve springs.
To adjust the valves you need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC, and by that I mean the the cylinder is about to fire the spark plug and it is at the top of its travel.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then you turn the crank one full revolution, now you are at #6TDC
you can now adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
That is misleading, I would only use the above to change valvesprings, not to adjust the valves. You see when the crank dot is at 12 o'clock then you can remove the valve springs on the 1 and 6 cylinder since you don't have to worry about the valve falling into the cylinder. Then you turn the crank to 3 o'clock and remove the 5 and 8 cyloinder valve springs.
To adjust the valves you need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC, and by that I mean the the cylinder is about to fire the spark plug and it is at the top of its travel.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then you turn the crank one full revolution, now you are at #6TDC
you can now adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 725
From: Zip Tie Island
Between 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock as you turned the crank, did the exhaust valve on the #1 cylinder go down(the pushrod go up)?
If the exhaust vavle did NOT move as you were going from 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock then you are #1 TDC.
Adjust
I: 1, 2, 5, 7
E: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then rotate the crank 1 full revolution to bring #6 to TDC
Now adjust
I: 3, 4, 6, 8
E: 2, 5, 6, 7
If the exhaust vavle did NOT move as you were going from 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock then you are #1 TDC.
Adjust
I: 1, 2, 5, 7
E: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then rotate the crank 1 full revolution to bring #6 to TDC
Now adjust
I: 3, 4, 6, 8
E: 2, 5, 6, 7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 515
From: jacksonville, FL
yeah, I got all of them adjusted, but my question is: Am I supposed to tighten the rocker nut all the way down on the outside part, and then adjust the rockers to zero lash with the hex key? or do I leave the hex key part level with the top of the rocker nut and go from there like I've already done?
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
Originally posted by rpm4lalo
To adjust the valves you need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC, and by that I mean the the cylinder is about to fire the spark plug and it is at the top of its travel.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then you turn the crank one full revolution, now you are at #6TDC
you can now adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
To adjust the valves you need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC, and by that I mean the the cylinder is about to fire the spark plug and it is at the top of its travel.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Then you turn the crank one full revolution, now you are at #6TDC
you can now adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
Last edited by IrocSS85; Mar 29, 2004 at 08:29 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,737
From: waterford, MI - USA
Originally posted by 30thannZ28
yeah, I got all of them adjusted, but my question is: Am I supposed to tighten the rocker nut all the way down on the outside part, and then adjust the rockers to zero lash with the hex key? or do I leave the hex key part level with the top of the rocker nut and go from there like I've already done?
yeah, I got all of them adjusted, but my question is: Am I supposed to tighten the rocker nut all the way down on the outside part, and then adjust the rockers to zero lash with the hex key? or do I leave the hex key part level with the top of the rocker nut and go from there like I've already done?
I was away when you typed this. you have it wrong. the inside allen bolt is the lock only. the big nut is what makes the adj.. so you need to back out the allen bolt so it doesnt interfere w/your adjment. when you adj. a valve, you slowly turn the big nut until there is no slack between the pushrod and the bottom of the rocker, then you turn it 1/4 more turn only, and hold the nut still while you tigten the lockbolt w/the allen wrench.
if you tigten the big nut all the way down, you will compress the lifter plunger. if you have already done this, Id loosen them all up, and let it sit for an hour or so to make sure the plunger returns to the top before you make your real adj.ment.
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