Thanks!

 

Find a good machine shop (make sure its a good machine shop!!!!) that will freshen up the crank and install ARP rod bolts into the stock rods. Go .030 over with the block, honed with a torque plate. Find some nice SRP forged pistons. Make sure balance job is dead nutts. Assemble stock rotating assy with SRP pistons paying very close attention to all clearances, use ARP studs in the bottom end. Send your stock heads to Lloyd for LE2 or LE3 porting job and use one of his LE2 cams. Over 400 RWHP without breaking the bank. I would feel safe with the stock rotating assy using GOOD (ARP) hardware to 450RWHP.

OR

if you want that extra bottom end grunt then go for the 383 setup, but you might overshoot your budget.

Steve

 

450rwhp and streetable are going to very hard to come by sticking within your price range. not that you cant do it but i wouldnt set my hopes that high.

stock rods are pretty strong and they will probably hold up to a le3 setup but the stock rod bolts are not going to hold up. when you upgrade the stock rod bolts you have to have the rods machined and by the time you do that, you wont be far from the price of the forged ibeams. the stock crank can handle quite a bit of power. there are several people that are running them over 500 horsepower but at that level i wouldnt expect them to last forever.

you are right about comparing a 350 to a 383 the torque will be the noticable difference. if you want the 383, you will need a new crank and you might have to do extra block work. which means more money.

 

im not fooling myself. you can get almost the same amount of power from a hydraulic cam with a 7000 rpm limit. the pcm will stop firing the injectors at 7200 rpm which is what you shift at. anything above 7000 rpm and the lt1 computer uses the 7000 rpm values. not the best way to run but it will work.

 

[QUOTE=Josh'95Z28conv]Thanks for the replies so far

To clearify some things. I alreaty have most bolt ons. Hooker LT's, full exhaust, I do have a 6spd, I do have 4.10's which will probably die quick since their only 7.5", lol. A 12 bolt will be the next mod, or when I get sick of doing gear swaps I do have a laptop with tunercat, I just need to learn how to use it. I also plan on having a pro and a dyno to help me tune it when its all done.

I just finished a 383 w/LE1 heads & cam. I aleady had the LT's, full exhaust and 52 mm TB. By the time I was done I had $8K invested, that's just parts, because I did all the work myself. Don't forget, you're going to need a good clutch to hold all that new power. That's about $650 right there, plus you'll probably want to put in a new master/slave cylinder while you're at it (another $100). When you start buying all the other supporting parts (lifters, pushrods, new RR's, bigger injectors, gasket sets, etc.) it starts to add up fast.

But, on the other hand, it's an absolute blast to drive, well worth the money. I kept the stock valve covers and the TB is a bored out stock TB, so other than the Hooker long tubes and the lopey idle, the engine looks stock. So when people ask..."No, just a cam and headers."

Chris

 

you go tell joe overton that a solid roller cant make much more power than a hyd and see what he says

 

I alreaty have a spec stage 4 clutch. All I need is engine parts. Im now considering a 383 a little more after a day of thinking.

 

cehan's right! It's definitly the little stuff that adds up. 12 or 9 bolt, sticky tires, & suspension you can spend 4-5k on ONLY that stuff easy!!! And what's the point of haveing hp&tq you can't use? Braging rights?
-b

 

on a stock 350 with supporting mods what would probably be the difference in hp from fully ported lt4 afr 227 heads compared to fully ported lt1 heads?

 

Ive got draglites all around, skinnies up front and drag radials out back. I can deal with a ring and pinion swap here and there untill I get a 12 bolt. Convertables have factory subframe connectors, although I dont know how good they are. Ive got v6 springs to help with traction, and cheap adjustable shocks. Im not worried about suspension stuff right now, Ill deal with that later. Im talking engine mods only here.

 

i went with the summit forged kit, LE2 heads, GM847 Cam, Sir I beam rods and all boltons with a spec 4 kevlar clutch. The car is defiantly in the 11's with about 5k into it.

It was the cheapest, yet most effective way to get into the 11's and still be reliable.

If thats what your looking for I would suggest doing exactly what I did. +/- whatever cam you like/prefer.