$2500.00 to spend need advice
how so? not worth the power gain or just a MPITA to install?...if its just a PITA then im not worried bout that...its not my daily driver so i can take a month if i want to do the install. anyhow why isnt it worth it?
You dont HAVE to buy everything new, get you some used stuff.
As far as the catback I would take the crossflow muffler off and put a straight thru Magnaflow or ther like with a single dump on the drivers side of the bumper. Leave the stock catback on for now.
Take the Cats off if you can, Test pipe or a new Y pipe.
I had MAC shorties and Y pipe on my car when I bought it and loved them, performed VERY well even with heads and cam later on and no ground clearance issues.
Frame connectors
Get a good converter, There are a few used ones on the board now in the for sale section.
A Cold air induction
Throttle body airfoil.
1.6 roller rockers
Drag radials
Used set of Hals for the front.
3.42 gear
LS1 aluminum driveshaft
Mail order tune.
This should put you solidly in the 12's depending on car weight, low 13's at a minimum.
David
As far as the catback I would take the crossflow muffler off and put a straight thru Magnaflow or ther like with a single dump on the drivers side of the bumper. Leave the stock catback on for now.
Take the Cats off if you can, Test pipe or a new Y pipe.
I had MAC shorties and Y pipe on my car when I bought it and loved them, performed VERY well even with heads and cam later on and no ground clearance issues.
Frame connectors
Get a good converter, There are a few used ones on the board now in the for sale section.
A Cold air induction
Throttle body airfoil.
1.6 roller rockers
Drag radials
Used set of Hals for the front.
3.42 gear
LS1 aluminum driveshaft
Mail order tune.
This should put you solidly in the 12's depending on car weight, low 13's at a minimum.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Jan 9, 2008 at 07:36 AM.
installation is going to be the same regardless of the cam you choose. From what i have seen the cc305 runs better 1/4 times.
coated pacesetter lt's with y pipel, gaskets, hardware-550
Exhaust-300-750(if you go stainless)
cai-175
subframe connectors-150
pcm4less tune-100
1.6rr and springs+hardware-400
ele. cutout-175
Now that totals 1300-2000 depending on parts and how much of the labor your going to be paying for. If you can do it all yourself you ll have money left over for a set of sticky tires (dr's or sticker). You should be over 300rwhp and be prepared for heads and cam when that comes along.
Maybe throw in lca's and a set of shocks if you do it all yourself. But thats how i would start if i was buying everything for a stock car.
Exhaust-300-750(if you go stainless)
cai-175
subframe connectors-150
pcm4less tune-100
1.6rr and springs+hardware-400
ele. cutout-175
Now that totals 1300-2000 depending on parts and how much of the labor your going to be paying for. If you can do it all yourself you ll have money left over for a set of sticky tires (dr's or sticker). You should be over 300rwhp and be prepared for heads and cam when that comes along.
Maybe throw in lca's and a set of shocks if you do it all yourself. But thats how i would start if i was buying everything for a stock car.
The power gains from the LT4 "heads/cam" kit are laughable.
A really good combo for a streetcar would be a cam $225, springs $125, rocker arms $200 (Hotcam, CC305, Crane 224 etc..), longtubes $400, Vigilante 2800 converter, here is one in the FS section $450* (https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=570290), 3.42-3.73 gears, $50 (used M6 gears from here) then throw in a n2o kit $450, mailorder tune $75. With that kind of setup you could run lower 12's on motor and low 11's on n2o. The key is to search the Forsale section for headers, cam, converter etc.. and save you a bunch of money.*Goodluck* Clint
One needs to answer some questions before asking about mods. E.g. what kind of power do you want and what kind of driving and drivability to you expect/want. Deciding on a cam is the last thing you do after deciding on other factors. If you knew exactly what cam you were gong to use, you could get a jump on the project by starting with your valvevle train including the springs that go with that cam, non-sa 1.6 RRs, chromoly push rods, guide plates, building a better valve train is one of the most important parts of the build. And...if you have the cash, go for the cam. Don't forget to get a CAI to help bring in some fresher air.
You will find that your 2500 can go quite quickly. Since the stock intake is not that bad, bumping the lift and putting better springs on together with some headers, LTs if they are allowed, otherwise 1 3/4 shorties.
Looking for a better breather by getting the CAI, installing 1.6 RRs, and adding some headers should use up quite a bit of the 2500 and provide you with some pretty good increases. Add the cam if you can and then consider having some valve porting in the heads. The converter and gears will take advantage of your power increases and provide better times. JMHO
You will find that your 2500 can go quite quickly. Since the stock intake is not that bad, bumping the lift and putting better springs on together with some headers, LTs if they are allowed, otherwise 1 3/4 shorties.
Looking for a better breather by getting the CAI, installing 1.6 RRs, and adding some headers should use up quite a bit of the 2500 and provide you with some pretty good increases. Add the cam if you can and then consider having some valve porting in the heads. The converter and gears will take advantage of your power increases and provide better times. JMHO
That 2500 isn't going to stretch as far as you think. Stick to the bolt ons and you will have enough left over for the incidentals. Everyone is trying to get you to throw heads/cam on the car and not even paying attention to the fact that you said the car is bone stock!


