Why do my brakes suck?
I drive an 00 ss. It has 18000 miles on it. So far the brakes have been replaced once. with 5000 miles on it, the rotors warped and were turned, or cut. Then it was great agian. I like to drive fast, I make a trip to see the gf every month in PA, I Live in ct. So yes, I speed, I like to stay around 80. Whenever a cop hits me with radar or laser, laser being the more serious one. I hit the brakes. However the times that the rotors have warped were when, say a little old lady would pull out in the fast lane doing about 40 with no reason. The question I have for you is:
1. What do I have to do to get brakes in this car that can handle some heat.
2. How much will it cost.
3. Why does chevy give people cheap @$$ brakes when they spend their hard earned cash on them. (Im 22, it's alot of work for me to go to school fulltime and buy this car) So why in the world do I have to pay the extra money to get a car that can handle its own weight?
Thanx for any help in advance
~~Jeff~~
1. What do I have to do to get brakes in this car that can handle some heat.
2. How much will it cost.
3. Why does chevy give people cheap @$$ brakes when they spend their hard earned cash on them. (Im 22, it's alot of work for me to go to school fulltime and buy this car) So why in the world do I have to pay the extra money to get a car that can handle its own weight?
Thanx for any help in advance
~~Jeff~~
LS1 brake rotors warp even if you drive it normal. My 2001 had 18k miles on it when I got it and the first thing I did was replace them b/c they were warped.
You can replace them with AutoZone rotors for like $45 each or PowerSlot (slotted rotors) for a little more. The PowerSlots will keep them cooler if you're really heating up the rotors.
You can replace them with AutoZone rotors for like $45 each or PowerSlot (slotted rotors) for a little more. The PowerSlots will keep them cooler if you're really heating up the rotors.
Originally posted by lastZ
get some power slot rotors, the slots will dissipate the heat , and they are a hell of a lot stronger to begin with than stock rotors
get some power slot rotors, the slots will dissipate the heat , and they are a hell of a lot stronger to begin with than stock rotors
The stock pads really arent bad,in fact good for lasting product the ceramic is in them for the acceptance of high heat.Depends on the driving being done.If you want some good stopping pads Carbon Metalic...messy. Performance Friction,Hawks but wont last as long you can see it build on yer rims daily.
Slotted rotors don't assist in cooling in any way, shape, or form. The slots are there to disperse gases when super-heating old brake pads, it's not a problem you're gonna run into these days, especially not on the street or light track use. Putting the slots in there actually reduces the effectiveness of the brakes because you take away contact area of the rotor, remove mass (needed for heat dispersion), and wear out your pads faster. If you get the cross-drilled rotors, you run the risk of cracking your rotors if the holes are drilled into the rotor and not cast into the rotor. They do look better, but don't buy them thinking that just because they are slotted or cross-drilled they're gonna have any positive effect on your braking abilities.
i've heard of cracks hairline fissures deleloping over time w/the cross drills between drills.And yeah if your at road coarse tracks(not streets)have fissures and hammer yer breaks I've heard of people breaking those rotors.Mantainace and inspection
The power slots dont take that much from the fire path,they are benificial for the right conditions,for the pupose intended removing gasses for better breaking in harsh conditions.But as a streetable rotor it is kinda overkill the benifits/conditions are rarely present to appreciate.And can be self defeating.
For this guys prob. he should just resurface and try the Frictions.I've takin my car to road coarse tracks at high speeds in the turns slowin off straights brutal hot braking atmosphere w/ stock set-up no problems.But I keep my braking system in top condition.My instuctor an ex-panoz driver has recomended me using slotted rotors,I trust him.In the right conditions the slotted rotors are a benfit
The power slots dont take that much from the fire path,they are benificial for the right conditions,for the pupose intended removing gasses for better breaking in harsh conditions.But as a streetable rotor it is kinda overkill the benifits/conditions are rarely present to appreciate.And can be self defeating.
For this guys prob. he should just resurface and try the Frictions.I've takin my car to road coarse tracks at high speeds in the turns slowin off straights brutal hot braking atmosphere w/ stock set-up no problems.But I keep my braking system in top condition.My instuctor an ex-panoz driver has recomended me using slotted rotors,I trust him.In the right conditions the slotted rotors are a benfit
Yeah, and depending on what you want, I'd recommend staying away from their carbon metallic pads. They stop great, but they give off brake dust like a mother. My little bro has them on his SS and they look like crap after 30 minutes of driving.
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