what kind of oil is in our cars from the factory?
Aneurysm;
Please first understand that I am not an expert when it comes to oil, or anything automotive, however here is my opinion:
The lower the number of the oil, the THINNER it is, that is 5 weight is thinner than 10 weight, which is thinner than 20 weight etc.
The "W" on the container indicates the viscosity the oil is when it is "COLD" therefore you see 5W- 10W- 20W. The latter number indicates the viscosity of the oil when it is HOT, so at the end of the equation you see 30, 40, 50.
In a cold climate such as Canada, you are probably correct in running 5W30. I live in a warm climate in southern California, so I run 10W30.
Hope this helps you out in some way.
SteveC
Please first understand that I am not an expert when it comes to oil, or anything automotive, however here is my opinion:
The lower the number of the oil, the THINNER it is, that is 5 weight is thinner than 10 weight, which is thinner than 20 weight etc.
The "W" on the container indicates the viscosity the oil is when it is "COLD" therefore you see 5W- 10W- 20W. The latter number indicates the viscosity of the oil when it is HOT, so at the end of the equation you see 30, 40, 50.
In a cold climate such as Canada, you are probably correct in running 5W30. I live in a warm climate in southern California, so I run 10W30.
Hope this helps you out in some way.
SteveC

SteveC, thanks for the post and the info!
Aneurysm, SteveC has it right... The weights are related to the numbers and for some place that sees you average daily temps in the 80-90's the 10w30 seems to be your best all around choice for OUR cars. My Porsche would run only 20w50 maily cause it would spend more time above 3500rpm than it did below.
So for our V-8's with average rpms in the 1000-2500 rpm ranges, I would suggest 10w30 for warm climates and for the chilly places where you worry about stuff freezing, go with the 5w30.
If you are in between and are just using Dino oil, make your own mix. heheh This isnt always advised but I have known many to do it to get somewhere in between two oil viscosity levels? why? Cause they want to be special or perhaps excentric! hehe
I will point out that if you want to ask really in depth questions about oils, Patman on LS1.com's message board will quote oil analysis and other fun facts that could help you out, for oil questions, I would consider him one of the "experts" to ask.
Thanks again to all who replied!
Aneurysm, SteveC has it right... The weights are related to the numbers and for some place that sees you average daily temps in the 80-90's the 10w30 seems to be your best all around choice for OUR cars. My Porsche would run only 20w50 maily cause it would spend more time above 3500rpm than it did below.
So for our V-8's with average rpms in the 1000-2500 rpm ranges, I would suggest 10w30 for warm climates and for the chilly places where you worry about stuff freezing, go with the 5w30.
If you are in between and are just using Dino oil, make your own mix. heheh This isnt always advised but I have known many to do it to get somewhere in between two oil viscosity levels? why? Cause they want to be special or perhaps excentric! hehe
I will point out that if you want to ask really in depth questions about oils, Patman on LS1.com's message board will quote oil analysis and other fun facts that could help you out, for oil questions, I would consider him one of the "experts" to ask.
Thanks again to all who replied!
Btchslp,
FYI - I used to run Kendall 5W-30 in my S-10 and it wasn't synthetic. Kendall was the only conventional oil I could find in that weight but then again that was a few years back. Just my .02 worth.
FYI - I used to run Kendall 5W-30 in my S-10 and it wasn't synthetic. Kendall was the only conventional oil I could find in that weight but then again that was a few years back. Just my .02 worth.
Steve C is correct in stating that the SS and the corvettes come with Synethic while the Z28 and the 3600 come with regular oil. As for the weight...it is suggested to use 10W30 for most places unless you're in Alaska and Las Vegas...or those types of temperatures.
------------------
Burgundy 2000 Z28
M6, K&N Filter,
CAGS Eliminator, Fully Loaded.
Want to do major upgrades!
------------------
Burgundy 2000 Z28
M6, K&N Filter,
CAGS Eliminator, Fully Loaded.
Want to do major upgrades!
Almost all oil manufacturers make SAE 5W-30 oil (conventional and synthetic).
Here are some quotes from the owners manual(5.7L engine):
1. For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade oil for the expected temperature range. SAE 5w-30 preferred, Do not use SAE 20w-50 or any other grade oil not recommended.
2. If you have the 5.7L engine, SAE 5w-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10w-30 if it's going to be above 0 degrees F. Do not use other viscosity oil such as 20w-50.
Sounds to me like SAE 5w-30 is recommended for 5.7L engines in all temperatures.
SAE 5w-30 oil was the recommended oil for my last 5 GM vehicles.
I have never used Redline oil but do use their Diff fluid and trans fluid (ATF). I've had had great results with both. Redline ATF has given me an extra 10,000 miles on my 97 Z. The fluid seemed to fix my tranny after it began slipping.
Redline oil is more expensive than mobil 1.
Oil is the life of your engine. I can't understand why anyone would want to run the risk of running oil till it begins to break down. I change mine every 2,500-3,000 miles.
When I took the heads off my 97 Z with 48,000 miles on the clock, the original bore marks were still in the cylinders. With over 300 1/4 mile runs and constant abuse street racing there was virtually no wear on the engine. I started running Mobil 1 with 1,000 miles on the car.
------------------
2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am WS-6, 6 Speed,
MTI Lid, Fernco Mod, K&N, FRA!, Maf Ported, CAGS!, B&M Ripper, B&B Tri Flo Exhaust
SLP Long Tubes on order
White 97' 30th Aniv. Z Automatic, No Orange Stripes, Suncoast Hood, March Pulley, Maf Screen Removed, Moroso 8mm Wires, Ed Wright Program, 160 stat, Motive 3.73's, Flowmaster muffler, Lt-4 KM, 1.6.1 Roller Rockers, 1LE Bellows.,SLP Cold Air, Nitto DR's, TB By pass, BBK 52mm TB , AFPR,Lt-4 Hot Cam, Vigilanty 2800-3000 stall, Mezier electric water pump, Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex y pipe and 3 inch intermediate pipe, LS1 Drive Shaft GTP Stage II heads, Comp Cams R Lifters, Trick Flow Push Rods and SVO 24 lb. injectors.
60' 1.789
1/4 12.207
Mph 113.22
Here are some quotes from the owners manual(5.7L engine):
1. For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade oil for the expected temperature range. SAE 5w-30 preferred, Do not use SAE 20w-50 or any other grade oil not recommended.
2. If you have the 5.7L engine, SAE 5w-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10w-30 if it's going to be above 0 degrees F. Do not use other viscosity oil such as 20w-50.
Sounds to me like SAE 5w-30 is recommended for 5.7L engines in all temperatures.
SAE 5w-30 oil was the recommended oil for my last 5 GM vehicles.
I have never used Redline oil but do use their Diff fluid and trans fluid (ATF). I've had had great results with both. Redline ATF has given me an extra 10,000 miles on my 97 Z. The fluid seemed to fix my tranny after it began slipping.
Redline oil is more expensive than mobil 1.
Oil is the life of your engine. I can't understand why anyone would want to run the risk of running oil till it begins to break down. I change mine every 2,500-3,000 miles.
When I took the heads off my 97 Z with 48,000 miles on the clock, the original bore marks were still in the cylinders. With over 300 1/4 mile runs and constant abuse street racing there was virtually no wear on the engine. I started running Mobil 1 with 1,000 miles on the car.
------------------
2002 Navy Blue Metallic Trans Am WS-6, 6 Speed,
MTI Lid, Fernco Mod, K&N, FRA!, Maf Ported, CAGS!, B&M Ripper, B&B Tri Flo Exhaust
SLP Long Tubes on order
White 97' 30th Aniv. Z Automatic, No Orange Stripes, Suncoast Hood, March Pulley, Maf Screen Removed, Moroso 8mm Wires, Ed Wright Program, 160 stat, Motive 3.73's, Flowmaster muffler, Lt-4 KM, 1.6.1 Roller Rockers, 1LE Bellows.,SLP Cold Air, Nitto DR's, TB By pass, BBK 52mm TB , AFPR,Lt-4 Hot Cam, Vigilanty 2800-3000 stall, Mezier electric water pump, Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex y pipe and 3 inch intermediate pipe, LS1 Drive Shaft GTP Stage II heads, Comp Cams R Lifters, Trick Flow Push Rods and SVO 24 lb. injectors.
60' 1.789
1/4 12.207
Mph 113.22
The engine plants put in REGULAR motor oil,
NOT SYNTHETIC!! I do not know if SLP puts
synthetic in the newer models. I know of
2000 MY SS's that had standard oil. The oil
fill cap would have the MOBIL 1 symbol on it
if there was synthetic in the engine.
I work in the plant the engine was built in
until 7/99. I still have access to the plant
and records of where they are built in now.
------------------
1998 Z-28 Conv. stock for now.
M6, Leather, SS Chrome wheels w/ F-1's
14.06 Sec @ 104.76 mph w/2.35 60'
(need launch practic BAD)
NOT SYNTHETIC!! I do not know if SLP puts
synthetic in the newer models. I know of
2000 MY SS's that had standard oil. The oil
fill cap would have the MOBIL 1 symbol on it
if there was synthetic in the engine.
I work in the plant the engine was built in
until 7/99. I still have access to the plant
and records of where they are built in now.
------------------
1998 Z-28 Conv. stock for now.
M6, Leather, SS Chrome wheels w/ F-1's
14.06 Sec @ 104.76 mph w/2.35 60'
(need launch practic BAD)
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