Even if you never did anything to your car you should get SFCs. I wish it was one of the very first things I bought. SFCs eliminate annoying dash and hatch rattles and makes the car feel so much more solid. You will be amazed at the difference they make.

 

Daryl, I have bolt-on SFC but I don't have many miles on them, but a friend of mine has SLP bolt-on's which we installed well over 20K miles ago. We checked them about a month ago and there as tight as the day we installed them, I should also mention he drives his car hard...which tells me the bolt-on SFC work just fine. JMO

 

DarkAge53,
Well, that certainly lends credence to and supports the bolt-on cause. I'll keep that in mind as I shop the two (bolt-on & weld-on). Thanks for the info, especially about the 20K ago and his driving style... that all factors in to the final decision.

Thanks!
Daryl

 

Sorry but I have seen SLP's Boxed subframes and they DO hang lower then any tubed SFC's. If you read most sites that have both for sale the reason they offer the tube style is because they tuck up better than box style. I don't want to see something from the side hanging lower than the panted rocker panel. And just for you AKlaim, read it on BMR's site, you will loose 3/4" with the boxed over going with the tube style.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
Later>>>>>>>>>>

 

You can do a search on this subject here and get lots more info. It is strongly recomended to put SFC's on a T Top car since they are not as structually strong in the roof. Supposed to help eliminate rattles in the dash, etc... once the car gets more and more miles. If you plan on getting another f-body and want to take some parts with you they I'd say bolt on would be good, other wise if you plan on keeping it a while it is better to weld them in IMO and many others here too. I could tell it took out the roll or squishy feeling when taking a corner hard. It just stays much more level and tight. Well worth the $ which ever one you choose. Later>>>>>>

 

Good, that's what I'm interested to know also: frame rigidity (for stomping on it in the long run) and lessening the roll and "soft" feeling around turns when I take them more aggressively. thanks, Z-Attitude!
Daryl

 

I have had the SLP bolt on type for several years with no problems. The car basically has no rattles, only issue is that now the car is so tight that on crappy roads my Alpine CD player does skip once in a while, but still not bad. I would say the good thing about the bolt on type is that if you need to work on the car for mods down the road you can take it off, but you also have the option of welding in addition to the bolts and then they are really on! I also believe that the weld on type were not powered coated, like the bolt on are?? That maybe just for the SLP's.

 

Thats all fine and dandy, websites can say what ever they want, but I know for a fact that I lost nothing as far as ground clearance goes. I also know that there are 3 cars with tubed sfc's in my local car club that have their sfc's sticking down farther than my boxed sfc's. I helped install them myself at my buddys shop, and even he made a comment that you dont loose ground clearance like everybody says you do. Maybe if they are installed improperly you might, but if its done correctly you dont. My stock y pipe hangs 2 inches lower than my subrames do, and this in on my own car that i measured and observed with my own eyes.

 

I always thought ground clearance was measured from the lowest point of the bottom of your car to the ground. Some of you guys must have some tightly tucked exhaust systems.

 

The people saying that boxed sfc's will give you 3/4" less ground clearance dont actually have boxed sfc's. They are just repeating info that has been said a hundred times over. They are speaking with out actually having any first hand experiance. Ill try and go take pics later today......

 

Don't forget ... even the solid roof F-Bodies are still T-Top cars with a piece of sheet metal laid over to form the roof. That's why you can easily ("easily" being a relative term) do a conversion from a hard top to a T-Top.

Our cars are not tight cars. Installing a DD SFC will strengthen the chassis by tying the front to the rear, and both sides to the centerline.

Bolt-on or weld-on ... it's your choice. But every F-Body needs to have SFC's underneath.

 

I like the idea that the Boxed SFCs ties the car together at the centerline.

Your're right, when you take that first test drive after installing your SFCs (bolt-on or welded), it quickly becomes obvious that they should have been there in the first place. It's too bad that you quickly get use to the feel.

 

I have to give my vote to the Spectacle Solutions double diamond boxed sub frame connectors. they are excellent price and perfect fit. The shop I had them put in, even made a comment about how good the fit and clearance was. My stock ground FX are actually lower. I went with just bolting them in, but may down the road get them welded. Had them checked over 5 months later and still tight as when installed. Made a HUGE difference in steering on uneven roads.