I have a clip from Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords that shows an LS1 Z28 ran a 12.89 and that was without the LS6 intake like the 01s and 02s have. Then they ran a 12.96 with an SS that had a tank full of fuel and was in HOT weather. They sad if it had any decent air at all it may have ran 12.70s or better on street tires. It also dynoed at 321 RWHP! 42 more than any Cobra they had tested and 82 more than any Bullitt.

I would be glad to email the article so you can post it.

 

Please Send it to me !!

Jonathan@extinctls1.com

thanks !

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00 Z28 - 6 speed
www.extinctls1.com

 

WTF, do Vettes sell for 60 grand in your city too? Dude, 49,000 is almost 15 grand above sticker. Either you're not being serious or you're just uninformed. 03 Cobras can be had for the sticker of 34,700.

 

And FWIW, I watched a 99 SS run right past me on his way to a 12.95@106 when I was racing my 94 T/A at Great Lakes Dragaway two years ago. And I'm a corral member.

Not all of us are ignorant of what LS1s can do, and not all of us would get whooped by them either .

EDIT: But just because a few have gone 12s stock, that doesn't mean all of them will. In fact, it's pretty rare. Most LS1s go mid-low 13s stock.

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White 1990 LX Hatch 5.0 Vortech S trim, fuel system, blah blah blah..

Black 1995 Honda Civic Ex Daily driver, 36 mpg

bigredjim.corral.net: now, banner free!

[This message has been edited by Big Red Jim (edited August 29, 2002).]

 

Big red what does your stang run?

 

When I race at the track, I talk to most of the f-bod guys, even you LS1 guys, if you dare talk to an LT1 guy

But seriously, I have never seen a "stock" LS1 run high 12's or even low 13's. I have seen a couple run mid 13's and the rest ran slower. The LS1's I have seen running high 12's/low 13's had simple mod's, lid, dr's, free mod's, which is impressive, but even these guys feel 12's out of a stock LS1 is a stretch.

Even with an automatic, believe it or not, driver has a lot to do with it. A guy brought his 02 SS A4 Ragtop to race at the track a few weeks ago when I was there racing my Z28. Bone stock, to the filter, nothing removed. He was running 14.2-14.3's'@98-99 MPH. We start talking and he asked what rpm do I manually shift my Z28 and told him I just leave it in D and let the car shift it self. Every run after that he left it in D and ran 13.7's-13.8's@102-103 MPH. It seems he was manually shifting the car and that was causing some problems.

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1996 Z28 Camaro
2001 best 1/4 BFG DR's NA - 11.865@113.57 w/1.634 60', 1/8 - 7.563@89.82mph Best 1/4 MPH 114.82 - Best 1/8 MPH 90.73 - 2002 Mid 11's NA, Mid 10's n2o

1989 GMC 1500 truck for work 18.1@73 305
8 cats to feed clean after 1999 V6 Mustang 5 speed
15.358@89.47 MPH w/ 2.227 60'
15.364@90.92 MPH w/ 2.383 60'

My Z28

 

My stock Ls1 with nothing done to it just from the show room floor ran a 13.1 @106 mph with stock street tires with a 2.110 60',
driver is a big problem in this case. I put exhaust, lid,slicks and ran a 12.6 @115
so i believe you just need to learn to drive imo??
good luck!
150 Shot of Nos coming next week!

 

I second that notion on the price of cobras. Saw one in austin, at 34,000, thought to myself thats not so bad, once i asked the sales person he said there is a list for it up to 7,000 over sticker, then i thought hhmmmm 46,000 for a mustang, i don't think so. Kind of funny how all's they do is make some fatter rims, add a crappy eaton blower, change the front fiscia, and take away the aluminum block and they can get that much for it. I Remember in 99 when i was quoted 28,000 for a new one. But if you got the money why not. Personaly i want a D-1 procharger over the eaton on my Z. Seen a stock internal LS1 run a 10.8 with a blower at i think 6 lbs. And let the guys on corral think what they want, more than likely they will get shown at the track what our cars can do.

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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
Borla (the expensive cut-out), Wisperlid W/K&N, FRA, Cags eliminator, Strange 4.10's, G2 Rear Girdle, Valv. Synthetic 10W-30, Redline gear oil, Fat hurst shift ****, Lead foot

Soon to be:
Alpine Screen, Orion xtr 800.4, xtrpro 1000, Kicker 12L7 in a milhouse, Focal polykev K2's, Focal utopia 6" audiom midrange.

 

I just lost IQ points reading this ****!



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94 Formula-6spd, New Mods are cloyes double roller timing set, CSI WP, Opti conversion,PCMFORLESS tuning, Comp R lifters and cc306, Hurst Shifter, Hotchkis Control Arms and Panhard Rod, Moroso Cai, Msd Ignition, Flowmaster Exhaust, Mac Headers & y-pipe, offroad pipe, Crane 10308 spring kit, 1.6 Promagnum RR's
Dyno with headers and RR's!
297rwhp
328rwtq
13.2@112.65(stock heads, full weight, 92 degrees outside)

 

Whoa man!! I can drive. The problem with the track that I went to - and this has been confirmed by a couple other guys since - is that they just repaved it this spring, so there has only been this summer's running on it, not year after year of rubber build up and what not, so it's not as "sticky" as it could be. The night I was there, it seemed that nobody could get really good traction - unless they were running slicks. I talked to a guy with a 2001 Z28 M6 with headers on his car, and he only ran a best of 13.9 by the end of the night. Sure, maybe he wasn't the best driver, but I tried everything I could with my car, and there was nothing I could do to make it go faster. I think my only problem may have been that my reaction times were a little crappy (averaged .600's to .800's), so I guess I was losing 1-3 tenths just in R/T. If that's the case, then take .3 off my 14.1, and I've got a 13.8. Also, I was not shifting "manually", since these trannies don't respond quick enough to the shifts --- I ran in Drive all night.

Oh well, I'm gonna go once or twice more this year, and if I can shorten my R/T's a little, maybe I can come home with a more respectable time!?

 

Reaction time does not affect your 1/4 mile time! The light can go green and you can sit there for 30 seconds and you will run the same time. The clock starts once you cross the beam.

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94 Formula-6spd, New Mods are cloyes double roller timing set, CSI WP, Opti conversion,PCMFORLESS tuning, Comp R lifters and cc306, Hurst Shifter, Hotchkis Control Arms and Panhard Rod, Moroso Cai, Msd Ignition, Flowmaster Exhaust, Mac Headers & y-pipe, offroad pipe, Crane 10308 spring kit, 1.6 Promagnum RR's
Dyno with headers and RR's!
297rwhp
328rwtq
13.2@112.65(stock heads, full weight, 92 degrees outside)

 

You know what?? That's what I thought! But then the other day I got into a huge argument with someone over that, and their justification was "well then why does everyone worry about reaction time so much??" A guy that drags his '72 Chevelle quite frequently told me that the R/T is counted into your total E/T, so I then thought that with a better R/T, I'd get a better E/T?!

Well, I guess that means that I still have a 14 second car then!! --- I think the next time at the track, I'm going to intentionally sit at the line for a few seconds - just to prove once and for all that R/T does not affect E/T.

And for now, I'm going to start picking up pennies to buy a new lid before I go to the track again! Freakin' car payments suck!

 

E.T = Reaction Time + 1/4 Mile Time

As soon as the light drops, you better go because the clock will be ticking.

Your reaction time DOES NOT affect your 1/4 mile time (the time it takes your car to cover 1/4 mile of ground), but it DOES affect your E.T. They are not the same thing.

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1983 Monte Carlo, 307 Stroker, TH350, 3.73 10-Bolt - SOLD 8/19/02

Future F-Body Owner

 

Sorry bud, like i said no offence. . Yeah the track,weather and elevation can have everything to do with it, so i dont think u have a 14 sec car, just need to go somewhere else...


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2002 Red M6 T/A...
Direct-flow lid, K&N, Dynomouth exhaust, Lou's short stick...

Dyno #s: 325.5 rwhp and 339.2rwtq!!!

 

Reaction time has absolutely nothing to do with your ET. Nada.

It is simply a measurement of your reaction vs the lights. If you have a car that runs 13.0's and sit for 2 seconds after the amber turns green, you are not going to run 15.0's. You will run 13.0's with a 2.0 reaction time. If reaction time did, I would red light every time to get better ET.

If anyone tells you differently, they are wrong.

Now you can tell by you reaction how well the track prep is. I normally cut low to mid .5's in my Z28. But once in a while I will start cutting high .5's, low .6's reaction times and my 60' suffers. This is a track prep issue. When I leave like I normally do, I am spinning instead of hooking up. I compensate after a few runs and get my reaction down, but normally my 60' does not get better on those nights.

------------------
1996 Z28 Camaro
2001 best 1/4 BFG DR's NA - 11.865@113.57 w/1.634 60', 1/8 - 7.563@89.82mph Best 1/4 MPH 114.82 - Best 1/8 MPH 90.73 - 2002 Mid 11's NA, Mid 10's n2o

1989 GMC 1500 truck for work 18.1@73 305
8 cats to feed clean after 1999 V6 Mustang 5 speed
15.358@89.47 MPH w/ 2.227 60'
15.364@90.92 MPH w/ 2.383 60'

My Z28