Expecting my exhaust anyday now.

Pacesetter long tubes
offroad ypipe
connected to a Loudmouth (i know, it's gonna be loud, but I have a dual/dual I can swap if I need to)

Looking at cams now. I need something that's going to work ok with stock heads for 6-9 months before I have the funds for a head swap. I also want something that is going to make nice power, but not kill me daily driving it, being stuck in traffic sometimes, and require spring changes every 6 months as well.

So....lay it on me.
The goal is going to be 400 rwhp with all supporting mods (or at least close to it) and 475ish when I swap heads.

I've heard good things about Futral's cams, would something like the F14 be too much on a daily driver?

 

That is based on personal preference. There are people running the MS4 and T-Rex on daily drivers, but I'd prefer not to.

 

I'd really recommend the 230/224. It's going to make midrange power very similar to the TR224, but pull hard all the way to 6800 rpm shift points. It can spin the motor high enough to make good power, but it doesn't have excessive overlap (the exhaust lobe is 6 degrees smaller).

No matter what cam you go with, +75hp from a head swap is a bit optimistic fwiw.

Ben T.

 

what else would I need to do to support this cam besides a tune.

Springs?
Rockers?
Pushrods?

 

stock rockers will be fine

but springs and pushrods will be needed.

i will 2nd the f14 cam. should yeild 400rwhp pretty easily on cam only, and with a good set of heads will put you right at 450rwhp.

i've been pretty happy with my TSP torquer cam. produced killer torque all across the board

 

oh...realize that your stock clutch probably won't hold up to even the cam only...let alone the h/c setup.

so figure in another $500+ for a good clutch

 

are pushrods really a neccesity? Don't you have to pull the heads to install them?

 

No, the pushrods drop in under the rockers, through the heads. And I've read about quite a few cases of guys bending stock pushrods.

...when I say "under" the rockers, I just mean under the opposite side as the valves contact.

 

yeah when you take the rockers off to change springs...the push rods will just pull right out and you drop the new ones in..its really that easy.

As fas as a cam..i did like the F14 but with its very aggresive ramp some guys have been complaining about collapsed lifters.<---i.e. remove the heads to fix

I like the TSP Torquer also along with the new Magic Stick. its the MS4 and its nasty. most cams that yeild 400RWHP cam only are on the aggresive side so expect some possible driveability issues. this meaning surging or very rough idle. anything around 112-110 LSA and duration on the low 240s can be like this..

also....a 475 RWHP expectation is high...most guys with G5x4 or Trexs or MS3 dyno around 45-465ish with expensive TEA, the new Dart and AFR heads..most of these are atleast 2500 assembled.

finally...dont forget there is usually a lot of little extra things when doing a cam..take your time and get the proper things...for instance...your gonna want to do a timing set while your down there...a ported oil pump possibly, all the gaskets, fluids (9 bucks a gallon for collant for example) (oil), springs, retainers and what not....its get expensive quickyl so take your time...expect to shell out atleast a thousand for a total cam job and thats if you do it yourself...a god dyno tune will be around 300 and up. good luck and hope i didnt bash your dreams

 

also...your not gonna see 400 RWHP with a cam and exhaust...youll need prob an pulley, ported TB, LS6 intake etc etc

 

Guys, don't forget that he daily drives this car and gets "stuck" in traffic to use his working.

Ben T.

 

OK, cool, thanks.

I'd be happy with 450 after the heads, which I'm still researching what to get.

I won't be doing the install myself, I don't trust myself, I'm leaving it to the experts.

Do I really need a new timing set (my car only has 25k on it) or is it just good cheap insurance? What about ported oil pump, is this just a wear item, or is it neccesary for a high performance cam?

 

a timing set is just good preventative maintenance. and honestly, for the $40 that the LS2 chain is (and much stronger) why NOT upgrade?

and same with the oil pump. with a cam you'll be spinning the engine higher, putting more stress on parts...the LAST thing you want to do is starve it of oil.

after i had my ported LS6 pump installed i could see a noticeably higher oil pressure on the guage.

 

too much pressure would be a bad thing though no? I've got 45-50 when fully warmed up idling.

 

i don't think idling is the problem...it's when you're spinning 6800rpm

it's basically a $150 insurance policy or re-assurance policy