I am trying to figure out the potential of the LS1 engine. I am considering buying a 98-01 WS6 Trans Am. I want to know what can be had out of one of these things. I know they run great from the factory with most dynoing at over 300RWHP stock. How well do they respond to mods like intake headers and the such.

I am currently building a 94 mustang with a 347 Kenne Bell supercharged engine in it. I am shooting for 475RWHP. The car will be completely streetable almost daily driver like. With this combo i can run damn near in the 10's.

If i were to buy a T/A i would sell my stang and all the parts i have for it. After i paid off a few bills i would have enough money for a good down payment on a T/A if it's around 16-$18000.

I want to know what it would take to get similar performance out of the T/A. I would be happy wiht mid- high 11's. I do not want any nitrous or supercharger.

Lets say i have a 00 T/A WS6 6 speed and i do the following mods:

better ram air induction (the one from SLP)
Full catback exhaust
SLP Shorty Headers
No Cat
Bigger mass air sensor
some kind of real streetable cam
Port/polish heads
Rocker arms
3.73 rear end.

What kind of power do you think that could make. ALso what kind of price? I will have probably 8-10k im my mustang motor when i am done. So could i get close to the same power cheaper?

Also how easy is it to find people to work on the LS1. I bet the motors are a real pain to get in and out. Any specialty shops in the southeast that work on the LS1's for big stuff like heads and cam?

Thanks and sorry for so many question.

thanks
Shanw

 

With the right setup, a heads/cam/LS6 intake car can pull 470 RWHP or more, you should be in the high 10s with hook.

The manifolds flow ok stock, headers dont buy you alot of power.

 

the headers pretty good stock? i guess they are a better design than the crap on my 94 Z28 then. I guess if i am doing heads/cam then it would be pretty stupid not to do headers too though.

How does the rear hold up to around 450RWHP? I know that is the weak point of the powertrain.

One more thing. How does th integrity of the car hold up? I currently own a 94 Z28 vert. It has more ratles inside than i can tell you about. I have also owned a hardtop 93Z that was fairly tight. and a t-top T/A that was fairly quite. I will be looking for one with less than 40k miles on it and doing double diamond subframes as soon as i get it. I want an interior that is nice and quiet.

Thanks
Shawn

 

I have a 94 also, thats old school, dont try to compare 94 design to 98+, not the same story.

If your going to drag race forget the stock rear end, its crap. If you road race, I had no problems with 411/385 at the wheels on my 94.

 

Why would you get shorty headers? Long tubes will give you more bang for the buck. You said you don't want cats so I know you don't live in California which only allows shorties.

 

i am not big into drag racing. Just launching on the street on nothing more than drag radial. I am more into handling and taking to the curves. just trying to figure out if my money would be better spent on the mustang or the T/A

thanks
Shawn

 

Ask how much is is to get a resleeved and stroked 42x (about 7.0L) ls1 block.. Its very expensive, but you'll be able to hit your 475 rwhp goal with close to stock manners (thanks to the extra cubes)

Would love to get a 97-98 C5 to put one in..

 

Long tubes are more bang for the buck? Thats a new one on me.

Stock bottom LT1 heads/cam through MAC headers and full exaust, 411/370 RW. My own car had SLP 1 3/4" headers, 411/385 at the rear.

Any kind of drag radials etc on these cars are a risk even at stock HP levels, the 411/370 car I mentioned broke his rear on street tires, mine survived.