Piecing together a 9inch rear end for less than 1200, Have question
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,110
From: Naperville
Piecing together a 9inch rear end for less than 1200, Have question
I've seen that moser sells a package that includes everything but the center section, posi, and gears for 800$. If I can get the center from a junk yard for $50, then get the posi and gears for like $300 then I'd have a complete 9 inch for around $1100. Is that right? why does moser charge like 2k for a assembled rear, are you just paying for it because it's assembled? If anyone had done this themselver before please give me some insight. Thanks
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 511
From: Soon to be Pensacola
There are different strength levels for the parts that you would need to aquire for one. If Moser uses a high strength case and diff, you will be hard pressed to get the same parts for what you are figuring. I don't know for sure what they use, but top of the line would be my guess.
The other is labor. If you don't get a housing with the exact length you need for the kit, then you will have to find someone with a narrowing jig to narrow your housing to the correct length.
9" rears also came with several bearing set diameters, you must get the bearing size compatable with the kit, or you will pay parts and labor to make the changes.
Then you have the labor to cut off all the stock brackets, weld on the kit parts, and then properly assemble the thing.
These are just guesses on my part, I am very familiar with the 9", but not the aftermarket F-body selections available.
I am not saying you can't do it cheaper (I believe it's very do-able). Just that if you are not careful, you will end up with a money pit out back.
Good luck
Dave
The other is labor. If you don't get a housing with the exact length you need for the kit, then you will have to find someone with a narrowing jig to narrow your housing to the correct length.
9" rears also came with several bearing set diameters, you must get the bearing size compatable with the kit, or you will pay parts and labor to make the changes.
Then you have the labor to cut off all the stock brackets, weld on the kit parts, and then properly assemble the thing.
These are just guesses on my part, I am very familiar with the 9", but not the aftermarket F-body selections available.
I am not saying you can't do it cheaper (I believe it's very do-able). Just that if you are not careful, you will end up with a money pit out back.
Good luck
Dave
Registered User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 363
From: spartanburg,sc usa
Originally posted by stik6shift98
ya but all the other stuff is under 400
so its complete under 1200
ya but all the other stuff is under 400
so its complete under 1200
spool = $190
detroit locker = $410
gears = $130
pumpkin = $50-$400+
install kit/bearings, etc = $120
$400 will get blown pretty quick buying the other stuff...
but if you can find a useable center section with the right gears and low mileage, you will be good to go... may as well find an open rear and weld the spiders together, because stock ford 9" posi units suck.
just some stuff to ponder on..
jeremy
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 511
From: Soon to be Pensacola
Okay, I didn't realize it came with the housing ready to go.
Is it a light duty housing (Mustang), or a banjo housing (Torino)?
Does it come with the axles ready to go (GM bolt pattern)?
New bearings?
What are you doing with the car?
My .02:
If you are going to drive the car on the street at all, DO NOT use a spool, mini spool, or weld the spiders. You are setting yourself up for at best abnormally worn tires, very likely a broken axle, and at worst loss of control of the car taking corners.
If you are running under 500 rwhp, save money and use a stock center section. If you are 5-600, use a stock N-case. Any more and go with an aftermarket. Lower the numbers I mention 100hp if you are running wrinkle wall slicks.
The stock posi does leave much to be desired, that's why I highly recommend a Detroit Locker. Indestructable... nuff said.
There is also a stock center section with extra ribs, it is called a 'WAR' case. You can use it for a little extra strength. The inside of the case is cast with a large 'WAR', and it has several extra ribs like I mentioned on the outside around the pinion support.
The stock pinion support is plenty strong, but there is what is called a 'Daytona' pinion support that is awesome. You can find them used for around $100. If you buy an aftermarket support, it will just be a new 'Daytona' unless you get the aluminum one.
If you do buy aluminum parts for the rear, read the fine print... aluminum flexes (work fatigues too) and will wear your gears quickly. I recommed getting an aluminum center section, spool, and very low gears for the strip... and setting up a stock center, locker, and streetable gears for the street. If you have 2 pumpkins set up, all you have to do is undo the pumpkin bolts, driveshaft, slide the axles out a couple inches, then pop the other in. It takes a few minutes the first time you do it, but with practice it becomes a very fast swap.
I think I covered alot...
Good luck
Dave
Edit: Be sure you know the spline count on the axles you get... 28, 31, or 35. The differential unit for each is NOT interchangable. It can be an expensive mistake to get the wrong spline diff. 28 is strong (400+ rwhp). 31 is very strong (500+ rwhp). If you are near 600 rwhp get the 35s (aftermarket only). Do not use 28s with a spool.
Is it a light duty housing (Mustang), or a banjo housing (Torino)?
Does it come with the axles ready to go (GM bolt pattern)?
New bearings?
What are you doing with the car?
My .02:
If you are going to drive the car on the street at all, DO NOT use a spool, mini spool, or weld the spiders. You are setting yourself up for at best abnormally worn tires, very likely a broken axle, and at worst loss of control of the car taking corners.
If you are running under 500 rwhp, save money and use a stock center section. If you are 5-600, use a stock N-case. Any more and go with an aftermarket. Lower the numbers I mention 100hp if you are running wrinkle wall slicks.
The stock posi does leave much to be desired, that's why I highly recommend a Detroit Locker. Indestructable... nuff said.
There is also a stock center section with extra ribs, it is called a 'WAR' case. You can use it for a little extra strength. The inside of the case is cast with a large 'WAR', and it has several extra ribs like I mentioned on the outside around the pinion support.
The stock pinion support is plenty strong, but there is what is called a 'Daytona' pinion support that is awesome. You can find them used for around $100. If you buy an aftermarket support, it will just be a new 'Daytona' unless you get the aluminum one.
If you do buy aluminum parts for the rear, read the fine print... aluminum flexes (work fatigues too) and will wear your gears quickly. I recommed getting an aluminum center section, spool, and very low gears for the strip... and setting up a stock center, locker, and streetable gears for the street. If you have 2 pumpkins set up, all you have to do is undo the pumpkin bolts, driveshaft, slide the axles out a couple inches, then pop the other in. It takes a few minutes the first time you do it, but with practice it becomes a very fast swap.
I think I covered alot...
Good luck
Dave
Edit: Be sure you know the spline count on the axles you get... 28, 31, or 35. The differential unit for each is NOT interchangable. It can be an expensive mistake to get the wrong spline diff. 28 is strong (400+ rwhp). 31 is very strong (500+ rwhp). If you are near 600 rwhp get the 35s (aftermarket only). Do not use 28s with a spool.
Last edited by ratio411; Feb 10, 2003 at 11:25 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 290
From: Warren,MI
I looked into doing this before I ordered my Currie 9" and it isn't woth it. Actually go and priece out everthing you need then add shipping, tax, etc and get the total cost don't just try to asume 400 for this and 800 for that.