My 4rth grinds when I down shift or when I am even trying to shift into 4rth from 3rd, why?!?!? My 3rd gear is also kind of hard to get into. Do I need to go with new synchro's?

 

Go back and read the history (thread) on this topic. You will find a fair number of interesting comments on your problem.

 

You cant put the car into 1st if your going over 20 MPH, or maybe its 15, i just wait till im barely moving, or even at 10 ill put it in 2nd, the car has $hit load of torque so it can start that slow pretty easy...(is that from the tq..i think so? )

 

Got my car back frm GM. New clutch and flywheel. It took care of the problem when downshifting all the way to 1st. Pretty smooth. ON the up side still a definite push to get into third with 2 step process vs a smooth flow but still better than before. Seems to get better as the car warms up. Off the line speed shifted up through fourth two times and never missed a gear. Something I couldn't get the car to do in the past. I need to drive it more before I'm ready to say its fixed. If you guys have the same problem-=tell the dealer you want a new clutch assembly. Remeber I only had 2,000 miles on the car when this started. I'll keep you posted.

 

I know this is an expensive solution, but what are our options for aftermarket syncros and shift kits? I agree with a lot of the other readers out there -- I would not trust my transmission to race with it. I blew my transmission out about a year ago and had to have it completely rebuilt, including replacing the clutch. I was hitting through the gears pretty good... not redlining or anyhnig but working them pretty well... and when i let the clutch out when i got to 3rd gear, it made a huge pop and grinding noise, and that was it. the Mechanic showed me the missing teeth on my gear, and my compltely destroyed Throwout bearing. since then i have been so scared to even chirp my tires. if i did my own rebuild with aftermarket racing parts, i'd be a lot more confident.

anyway, that was the very long version of .... "what aftermarket transmission parts are available that can take a real beating?"

 

I had my tranny rebuilt and clutch replaced with the zo6 clutch cause i wanted more performance, but stock feel. Maybe z06 components will work better.

 

So far so good on my replaced parts (see previous memos). However, the pattern does not shift smooth enough for speed shifting, so I continue to do normal shifting, otherwise it will red line in going from 2nd to 3rd.
The car is driveable but certainly a disappointment from my old '95.
Considering a trade in 2004.

If you find a good solution to the poor shifting so you get true performance out of the car, let me know.

 

Hi Guys,

An update on mine, the shifing got worse and worse, to the point where it was unbearable, i put it in the shop today. the only thing i found though, for those still experiencing this problem is... try this: the problem seems to be that the clutch is not adjustable, and therefore you cannot give the clutch enough throw to fully disengage the pressure plate, and therefore shifting is very hard. on mine when it got really bad (yesterday) if i let the clutch out only to the point where you can feel it is fully engaged, and not let the pedal out any further, you can then shift very smoothly. its like the pedal is allowed to throw too far back, and then will not press in far enough. anyway, it sounds like i have a very common problem among us, so i will definately post my results when i get it back from the shop this week

 

An update...

My mechanic called today, and the problem turned out to be a faulty clutch master cylinder, probably cracked/leaking, because he was unable to bleed the air out of it. $125 for a GM clutch cyl, fyi

 

Glad your problem has been fixed. Let us know how it runs after you pick up the car.

 

Hi Guys... I got my car back yesterday, and it shifts like a dream. the clutch is very very smooth, and it almost sucks it into gear when you shift. all that was replaced was the master clutch cylender, which is undernieth your dash, directly attached to your clutch pedal. the part costs about $125, i would highly recommend invesigating this if you are experiencing these similar shifting problems.

 

Olsen, it sounds like your current problem is caused by a restriction in the clutch hydraulic line. This is a known issue that can be easily corrected. Here is a link with more info on the subject:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...021/index.html

 

I have been following this thread for a while at work and finally have a night off to post.
Desolate_Flux, your condition is normal for a manual transmission( at least every one that I have driven since 1966 ). See your owners manual pgs 2-41, 42. The reason was given in an earlier reply, no syncros into first or reverse. That is why the owners manual says put it in any other gear if it is hard to shift into those two from a stop.

For any other newer manual transmission users: Some times we make our own problems. For those who have never seen an older transmission, the shift linkage used to be external. The shifter mounted to the left side of the assembly. there were adjustable connecting rods between the shifter arms and the shift levers on the transmission. Reverse had its own set, 1 & 2 shared a set, and 3 & 4 shared a set. the arms of the shifter and the transmission had hard rubber grommets that the connecting rods passed through. These grommets acted as shock absorbers on hard shifts. Good shifters had adjustable stops to prevent over travel. With this in mind, enter the newer T56 with top loaded shifter. Man, what an improvement. But the manufacturers had to build something affordable for the average person. The stops were made internal, the shifter base was made of stamped steel, A polymer bushing was used at the shift rod to shifter point, The pivot point was placed down low and the lever made long to make for an easy shift, and a rubber bushing was placed between the shifter pivot point and the lever inside the car to isolate noise and prevent damage to the internal stops.

Here is where it gets bad for us.

We want a shorter lever to look cool, but now the thing is harder to shift We hate the spongy feeling so we eliminate the rubber bushing, but we start damaging the internal stops. And as an added bonus, the stock shifter plate warps. And, if that is not enough, that pesky bushing wallows out and makes shifting sloppy. A solid short sick on a stock shifter is looking for trouble in my opinion. Good shifters raise the pivot point and still have the external stops, but some instructions actually tell you they are no longer needed. Use em, if you got em. In the newer T56, the synros are now made of carbon fiber instead of steel, so they are also more easily damaged.

Bottom line, these cars are pretty strong, fast as hell, and comfortable,as well as good looking. However they are still just street cars, made for the masses, with an eye for profit to the manufacturer. If you are going to really race the car, substantial upgrades in almost every system is required. There is a kit for the T56 that will replace the sycros with steel like the Viper GTS, for instance and the few other parts that GM scrimped on to make the car affordable. There are parts availble through no kidding race shops- not Autotzone or Pep Boys- that will upgrade that anemic rear end to a monster.

This is just food for thought and in no way meant to put a bad light on any one. I was 16 a long time ago. My brother and I built a 283 punched .60 over to 292 with an early roller set up in our bedroom. My Mom only intervened when she saw us bringing gas in the house to run it on the stand. God, I miss her. The whole point is experience takes time to gather and everyone starts at Zero. See you at the track.

PJ

 

Thanks for the info PJ, I always appriciate real-life experience of other drivers, that's what this forum is all about.

I read your signature, and i was wondering exactly what the "rear bumper mod" was; do you have a picture of it?

 

Joe, you will find a picture on Eric's site. He also has some other cool stuff there. I do not know if he originated the idea, but he gets credit from me. Thanks Eric. BTW I also saw this on some overseas site and that guy called it " invisible mud flaps " I usually run my stock tires and wheels since my car is a daily driver. It does seem to eliminate some of the stuff that used to get thrown up on the lower quarter panel fascia. I only have 9 1/2" ZR1s so it also keeps the tire exposure looking almost stock when they are on. Here is Eric's site http://home.tampabay.rr.com/eac/ta/ericcer.htm

One of these days I will have to get some pics up somewhere.
Hope the link works for you.

PJ