New Dyno sheet posted if interested, see here
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
And I order all performance stuff online, so where would you go to get some Cheap rims? And what size rim/tire would you recommend?
And I order all performance stuff online, so where would you go to get some Cheap rims? And what size rim/tire would you recommend?
see the following links:
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...TNUMBER=T80088
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....FA+Drag+Radial
the wheels are $50 a piece and the tires in a 255/50R16 size are $135 each...
jay
Originally posted by jthomas
see the following links:
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...TNUMBER=T80088
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....FA+Drag+Radial
the wheels are $50 a piece and the tires in a 255/50R16 size are $135 each...
jay
see the following links:
http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...TNUMBER=T80088
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....FA+Drag+Radial
the wheels are $50 a piece and the tires in a 255/50R16 size are $135 each...
jay
Originally posted by Michael Ozorowsky
Thanks for the replies, guys, but why would I want a 245 in the rear when I have 275's in the front? I don't know much about tires, so I'm sorry for the dumb questions.
Thanks for the replies, guys, but why would I want a 245 in the rear when I have 275's in the front? I don't know much about tires, so I'm sorry for the dumb questions.
What I meant to say was I am up for buying the rims now, but wouldn't I need to get some different rims/tires for the front for the track? I have 275's all around, and with 245's in the rear, I'll have a lot more rolling resistance in the front, right? Or am I wrong? Will I be fine to run 245's in the rear, and 275's in the front? I thought about just replacing all my rims, and running 275's in the front, with like a 315 in the rear, or 335 if I can get it to fit. Comments/suggestions? Thanks.
Hey Psycho. I REALLY appreciate all your help. I'll prob. order the rims tonight. Just curious though, because I never thought about getting drag radials. I don't understand if 245's are better than 275's, then why did the factory put 275's all around on my SS? And will I be able to use these same rims later when I get slicks? And as far as rolling resistance, As far as I understand, the smaller up front the better, and the wider in the rear the better, unless your talking about autocross, right? Thanks a million.
well, it all goes on what you are using it for and your school of thought..
for instance.. in autocross, you would like a decent amount of tire on the ground but not too much as that would inhibit the cars ability to turn easily.. Of course this really depends on the car (some laborghinis and Ferraris have 335's out back, but were designed for it).. I think for auto crossing, a good set of 245's for racing will do fine like the Yokohama autocross tires but you have lots to consider, like the wheel hight is going to effect to a degree how you car accelerates and the aspect ratio will determine how much sidewall and flex you will have... so its just not as cut and dried as some would like.. but from what I have seen, I would go with 275's if I already have them and decent tires for everyday that will allow me to autocross once a month.. or get dedicated tires for it and use them only at the track..
Now for drag racing, on 16" standard wheels, you can mount the drag radials or ET Streets.. I am pretty sure that would be the MOST you would want or need until you get a new rear end on the car.. After alot of looking around and talking to people.. I decided to take off my ET Streets since they had no tubes and I couldnt find anyone near me that had ever used the tubes and screws for a slick.. I know many have used these tires on rims without a tube but I didnt want to be one of those people that have any issues while at the track.. Last week I had Discount tire take off my ET Streets and throw on some Nitto DR's.. They look good and contrary to what many people say, they do not come brand new with just a little tread..
Mine look like they have much more thread than those that others on message boards were selling.. in any case, I have seen people post 1.7's and a few with 1.6's on drag radials, both BFG and Nitto so it came down to availability, cost and look.. Cost was about the same.. so for me it was availabiltiy and look and in the look dept, nitto looks much nicer, and the lucky for me, my local discount tire had them.. I dropped them off, and came back 2hours later and picked up my et streets and my two wheels with drag radials.. I need to get to the track soon.. Hopefully Sunday will be clear and dry.. I got off the subject somewhere, but anyways, for drag racing you want a small contact patch up front for less rolling resistance and to make small direction corrections and you want the least amount of tire you need to get the car launched.. thats when it is really hitting the hardest since you are trying to move 3000+lbs from a standstill with alot of power applied.. sure the 2nd gear hit is hard and can break them loose, but that is also when your tires arent too sticky from the getgo..
So, seeing as how I have seen many a 12-11 sec car run 245's and 255's I would say that they are plenty and I should not need more at this stage. I personally will only use them for this purpose. They arent going to be on the car for the drive to the track or the drive home.. have heard a few horror stories about local guys driving home from the track and hitting a wet spot (dew or water) and then plowing thier car into a wall or ditch.. so not for me.. Regular tires for the trip and my DR's for running about 1/4 mile at a time.. I would make like 2-3 passes before letting my motor rest.. then repeating every 45min-1hr..
hope that somewhere I helped answer some questions...
Good luck!
for instance.. in autocross, you would like a decent amount of tire on the ground but not too much as that would inhibit the cars ability to turn easily.. Of course this really depends on the car (some laborghinis and Ferraris have 335's out back, but were designed for it).. I think for auto crossing, a good set of 245's for racing will do fine like the Yokohama autocross tires but you have lots to consider, like the wheel hight is going to effect to a degree how you car accelerates and the aspect ratio will determine how much sidewall and flex you will have... so its just not as cut and dried as some would like.. but from what I have seen, I would go with 275's if I already have them and decent tires for everyday that will allow me to autocross once a month.. or get dedicated tires for it and use them only at the track..
Now for drag racing, on 16" standard wheels, you can mount the drag radials or ET Streets.. I am pretty sure that would be the MOST you would want or need until you get a new rear end on the car.. After alot of looking around and talking to people.. I decided to take off my ET Streets since they had no tubes and I couldnt find anyone near me that had ever used the tubes and screws for a slick.. I know many have used these tires on rims without a tube but I didnt want to be one of those people that have any issues while at the track.. Last week I had Discount tire take off my ET Streets and throw on some Nitto DR's.. They look good and contrary to what many people say, they do not come brand new with just a little tread..
Mine look like they have much more thread than those that others on message boards were selling.. in any case, I have seen people post 1.7's and a few with 1.6's on drag radials, both BFG and Nitto so it came down to availability, cost and look.. Cost was about the same.. so for me it was availabiltiy and look and in the look dept, nitto looks much nicer, and the lucky for me, my local discount tire had them.. I dropped them off, and came back 2hours later and picked up my et streets and my two wheels with drag radials.. I need to get to the track soon.. Hopefully Sunday will be clear and dry.. I got off the subject somewhere, but anyways, for drag racing you want a small contact patch up front for less rolling resistance and to make small direction corrections and you want the least amount of tire you need to get the car launched.. thats when it is really hitting the hardest since you are trying to move 3000+lbs from a standstill with alot of power applied.. sure the 2nd gear hit is hard and can break them loose, but that is also when your tires arent too sticky from the getgo..
So, seeing as how I have seen many a 12-11 sec car run 245's and 255's I would say that they are plenty and I should not need more at this stage. I personally will only use them for this purpose. They arent going to be on the car for the drive to the track or the drive home.. have heard a few horror stories about local guys driving home from the track and hitting a wet spot (dew or water) and then plowing thier car into a wall or ditch.. so not for me.. Regular tires for the trip and my DR's for running about 1/4 mile at a time.. I would make like 2-3 passes before letting my motor rest.. then repeating every 45min-1hr..
hope that somewhere I helped answer some questions...
Good luck!
Are those #'s corrected? when I dynoed at 306.6 rwhp (corrected) I was running 13.0's@106.60+.... Now with Mac headers I am running 12.80's@107.60+... I doubt that I have even 320 rwhp. are you running those times with those rwhp #'s? I was also at full weight when I ran those times. I'm just curious if your #'s were corrected?
Hey LS1. My dyno #'s are sae corrected. Also, my track times are without the suspension mods, and without the headers or diablo tune. Guess I'll just have to wait until I try out my new Nitto's in April to see how I can hook. Also, if you look at my track times, that is with a 2.4 60'. If I can improve that, I'll be mid to low 12's now. Can't wait!
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