Michael Ozorowsky

Look at page 5 of my web site. Got a pic there, along with all current mods.

stik6shift98

nice........

psychocabbage

ok.. not too bad.. but with 339 rwhp I would expect to see some 12's! Now what I cant understand, why wait so long for traction while adding power that will not make it to the ground???

I just today switched my ET Streets for some Nitto DR's.. Still have the ET's but since I am still stock, I think that 1.8's or so will do me fine on a launch and put me at just about 12's.. BONE STOCK..

Traction is everything, power is nothing without it..

Just curious, but do you know what you would dyno if you didnt have the aftermarket MAF?

interesting blue.. would be more interested in the gauge bulbs.. which ones, where and how hard to do?

I have some cathode UV lights.. I may add them to the car.. they look sweet!

Going to try and see the track tomorrow with my new Nittoz.. will post if I do..

decent numbers..

Michael Ozorowsky

Hey. I'm expecting some 12's myself. I'll go back next season. I am waiting on the traction, because this is my every day car. Therefore, I am more interested in it having gobs of power for the street. Then, I will get the traction, and get max potential out of it at the strip. I can't get max traction with slicks on the street, but I CAN go really fast with lots of power. I am saving up for a D-1 Procharger with intercooler. I am expecting somewhere around 475rwhp with 8# of boost after that. Then things will start to get fun. No clue what dyno would be without aftermarket MAF psycho. I can't find anyone who'll let me borrow their stock one. If I can borrow someone's stock one, I'll be glad to find out the diff. My stock one burned out at the track somehow. My gauge bulbs were EASY to do. If you want full install instructions, do a search for my name, psycho. I typed up a fully detailed install. Pretty easy to do. I figured it out myself. In fact, everything that's been done I've figured out myself.

As far as traction goes, I do actually need to find ways to get more traction now. I can floor it, and spin my tires, as easy on a hot and humid day as if it were pouring rain. I did try to improve my traction, I've just gotta get a good torque arm, and I think that'll help. Any other suggestions, psycho? Later.

DeathBuzzz

Hey man, nice choice on the car ( hehe, see the sig... ). I have been thinking about painting the ram air vent on my car when I paint my calipers in a week or so. I was wondering, does the vent just pop out? Is there any risk of breaking the plastic?

Much obliged,

~Brian

Michael Ozorowsky

Hoodscoop intake is EASY to take out. Just take a straight slot screw driver, and stick it about the middle of the intake. And on the lowest hole possible, then Gently pull up and out. There are 4 tabs on the plastic intake, one on each corner. MAYBE 6, one on the top and bottom middle. Hope that helps.

Loudmouth LS1

Suspension is good for traction Mike, but without a tire you ain't gonna hook worth a ****! Get yourself a set of drag radials on the rear, and then you'll get a lot more traction bro. Then start with the suspension mods. A torque arm ain't gonna do you no good without a sticky tire. Good luck.

psychocabbage

on my last Z i went with Energy suspension bushings on my tranny and torque arm, use tubular LCS's and panhard rod with poly bushings.. on sticky street tires (160 rated) I was getting 1.9's at the track.

Loudmouth LS1

Imagine what it would have been on Nitto's or BFG's! I have friends cutting 1.9's and 1.8's on LS1's w/ Nitto's and no suspension mods and just a lid and filter. I think Nitto's are 100 rated, and BFG's are even better and I believe they're rated at 0.

Michael Ozorowsky

Imagine what what would have been Loud? My ET? I KNOW I should be running in the 12's. I'll get some wheels in April. Just at open of season. What would you guys buy? I am looking for some CHEAP rims, with some good tires. Recommend, PLEASE

PhantomTA

I have quite a bit more power than him, with a BMR trackpack and verious other things. I still didnt run a 12.

Dont rag on someone because they have more power than their et suggests. Not cool.

Loudmouth LS1

I wasn't raggin on him, I was just suggesting that before the suspension stuff, I would have put a drag radial on there, b/c with DR's alone, he probably would have gotten just as good of a 60' as with all the suspension he added. And I was talkin about 60' when I said imagine what it would have been with a good tire and all that suspension stuff, it would have been sweet! So again, sorry if it came off as ragging, but I didn't mean it to.

Loudmouth LS1

since the rims are just gonna be for the strip, i'd say if you want cheap, just pick up a set of 2 salad shooters for the rear, they should be really cheap and put BFG DR's on them, b/c i've heard they hook better than nitto's (although you will get more life out of the nitto's). I am suggesting this b/c i'm assuming you're still on the stock 10-bolt rear? If you had a 12-bolt, i'd say slicks or et streets!!!

Michael Ozorowsky

Yup, I'm still on stock rear, at least until after SC install. And I order all performance stuff online, so where would you go to get some Cheap rims? And what size rim/tire would you recommend? The wider the better for the strip, right? Thanks.

Loudmouth LS1

Well, like I said, if you want cheap, you can go to any board and post that you are interested in buyin 2 salad shooters, or search the for sale sections for salad shooters (these are the rims that came stock on the lt1 Z's). I would have to say these would be the cheapest (i've seen them as cheap as $100 for two, but on average, I think it's $200 - $250 for two), they're 16's and I would say a BFG drag radial would be the best to put on them (245/50-16 or the largest you could fit on this rim would be 255/50-16). These should hook pretty good for now. This would only be for now, with the stock rear. Once you get a 12-bolt and that SC, get slicks either on a 15 or 16 in rim! And yes wider is usually better, and more sidewall is usually better too!