Hi guys!

I just got a 2002 SS with the factory SLP package. I'm totally new to the LS1 and would like to know how I could shave one second (or more) in the 1/4 mile.

Thanks in advance for all of your help

 

Do some searching on this board. Just about all you need to know will be covered in past posts. Then when you get a good feel for the various mods people are trying and you have some more Q or need advise on how to's and such post up with those. I'm not being a dick, its just I've been around the board for about 2 years and there is a LOT of repetition on MANY questions.

Just a few things to get you going

New lid (and please don't ask which one. They are all the same performance wise. Only differences are price and looks)

Tires

Gears?

High Stall TC (auto)?

SFC (Sub Frame Connectors)

Free Mods (Look here http://www.installuniversity.com/ )

Exhaust

And put you car info in your signature so we know if you have an auto/manual etc. etc. and of course add the mods as you get them

EDIT:

Totally forgot...WELCOME TO THE BOARD.

 

it depends on what you run right now...If youre like me all you need is some drag radials...as soon as I get some DR's I should be pushin 13 flat. They are already fast as crap, so I would just add on a full exhaust (Corsa, or Borla) IMO. with a Y pipe (offroad) again IMO, and some headers. I don't know the best headers but you definatly want long tubes. As far as shaving a full second Maybe some gears. I think 4.10's are good in the 1/4(someone correct me if im wrong). Someone also mentioned in another post that 4.56's were good, but noone ever uses them. (anyone know why that is?) Anyway, good luck and welcome to the world of real muscle cars!

 

Yep same as above!

Read all the old posts, then jump in! I didn't do any mods for the first year. All the free mods at install university are good. Porting the MAF sensor is a hot debate. I did it, most say leave it alone. Get an airbox lid, cheapest horsepower you'll make on a LS1. Cutout or cat back is next, then if you have an A4 a torque convertor will shave .5 secs of your 1/4. Of course the easiest way to gain a full second is nitrous I just ordered a TNT wet kit, can't wait!

Most of the fast A4 cars run 3:73 in the 1/4 4:56 is a bit steep...you'll top out in 3rd and have to shift again before the end of the 1/4.

Have fun with your SS!

Ed

 

First thing is get a lid and either muffler or full catback. TSP makes excellent lids. Loudmouth or dynomouth are awesome catbacks if you like it loud. If stealthy is more your style then hooker aerochamber muffler or full catback is a great bang for the buck exhaust. But if money is no object then GmmG or borla are the top of the line.

Now once a lid and exhaust are in place you'll need some new back tires. You can leave stock tires up front but get some Nitto 555R drag radials or better for the back.

If you have a M6 manual transmission then you'll definately want to invest in a new shifter. The B & M ripper shifter and 5.0 shifter are the two most popular. Also manuals like 4.10 gears and a skip shift eliminator.

If you have a A4 automatic then you'll want a torque converter. If it's a daily driver then I would recommend a TCI SSF3500. You'll also want a TCI shift kit and definately a tranny cooler. If you have 3.23 gears (GU5 code on inside of drivers door) then I'd say leave the gears alone. If you have 2.78 gears (GU2 code inside of drivers door) then I would get a used set of 3.42 gears off ebay or some new 3.73's.

After that you can look at things like underdrive pulley, CAI, headers, cam, heads and N20. It depends on how serious you want to get and how much you can spend.

Good Luck

 

He said he has the SLP package. He doesn't need another catback or a different air lid because he already has them. The SS came with an aftermarket shifter too. You can get a short stick that is supposed to help w/shifts. They're cheap, I just haven't done this yet. Look into headers and a good flowing Y pipe (w/ hiflow cats) since yours is probably still the flattened stock piece. A cut-out wouldn't hurt either. If you have an A4, definately get a converter. There is a local guy that picked up .60 in the 1/4 by this alone. Suspension mods to help you hook and some sticky tires. Also practice launching. Most people new to a car will pick up a lot of time by learning how to race their car.

I wouldn't mess w/ 4.10 gears because you'll lose what little traction you now have. Then if you get sticky tires and hook, thats just that much more force on an already inherently weak rear end. There are plenty of cars going fast on stock gears. Autos are easier on the rear, so gears wouldn't be bad.

If you're really serious: heads, cam, N2O or forced induction, and a tune for these mods.
It all depends on how much you want to spend.

If you want the delete your skip shift, just get the 2.2 K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor and plug that in.

 

Yeah I missed that. You don't need the lid but I still highly recommend a catback. Only reason I say that is because I believe the slp package came with the slp dual/dual. It's a great flowing catback but very quiet. If your happy with the sound then your good to go but if not then get a cutout or louder catback.

 

Just to clear things up. I assumed since he said he was new and didn't specifically mentions the 345 hp slp package, that he ment he had an SS which SLP adds the hood, spoiler, etc. Just saying SLP package doesn't say much. He could have the 1LE, auburn diff., etc, etc.

So for Ionic SS - go look at the passenger side rear door jamb and look for a list of slp options to see if you have any. Otherwise its a stock SS and you will need the lid and catback. The other way is to look at the lid on your car and see if it has the air silencer. If its there then it does NOT have the 245hp package. If its gone then you do.

 

Wow, they really under rated that SLP package All this time I thought it was 345 .




Gotta love those typos! But all valid point and very true!

Ed

 

Thanks guys for all the replys!

First on the passengers side door jam it says it has the factory SLP package with the exhaust, and it also says that the has 345 HP

Doesn't the SLP SS have a diferent diff than the rest of the Z28's? If so would it be usefull to upgrade that?

And on the high stall torque converter how would that work out for daily driving? Will the car sit still below 2k RPMs? Please bear with me that I have never had an automatic and this is all new to me

What is a skip shift?

Could some one fill me in on what other mods did the 345 SLP package have that make it diferent fom the Z28?

So the mods to follow are: headers, Ypipe, torque converter?

I really like the SLP exhaust, and it'sideal for my area because cops are everywere.

Thanks again guys! I will try and post some pics of her later today

 

what do cops have anything to do with your exhaust?

I have a loud a$$ car and theres cops everywhere here too, but I never have to worry about them.
1) because they don't care.
2) Even if they do decide to pull me over, they have to catch me first. God knows that'll never happen!!

 

If you have an A4, don't worry about skip shift.

A smaller converter will still allow you car to sit. Actually you can get creeping when you have a larger cam w/a stock converter. What it'll do in a nut shell is allow your engine to bring up the RPM to a point to get it in the power range for harder acceleration. It also multiplies the torque of the engine. For normal acceleration you'll still take off normal but your engine will just rev a bit more...kind of like when you slip a clutch. In 4th gear though it'll lock up and you won't experience any slip. For added protection get a tranny cooler too.

 

That solves that. You don't need a lid and in my opinion you don't need a new exhaust performance wise. You only need a new one if you don't like the sound. A cutout would be good for a few extra hp though.

Only if you have the auburn differential listed on that sticker on the door. Wait until you add a lot more power (heads and cam, nitrous etc.) or if you get slicks and plan on launching really hard at the track. Otherwise don't worry about it. Most people just wait for the factory unit to go before upgrading to a 12 bolt or 9".


Its a feature on the M6 cars that locks out 2nd and 3rd on light/medium accleration so that you have to shift from 1st to 4th. You don't have it so no problem there.

The lid and catback are it. No other differences.

Sounds good to me. doen't forget the feebies. TB (throttle body) bypass and free ram air are the two that I have done. There is some debate about the free ram air pulling heat from the radiator below when starting from a stop. Two points though. One, I can't get enough tractiont to get the power I have to the ground so the few ponies you might lose at the line won't matter unless you have some way to get all the power to the ground when launching. Second once you get going, it won't matter 'cause now you're getting the cold air induction effect you were after (no more hot air from the radiator. Actually, I have a third point - The ram air kits (super sucker, fast toys) are made of aluminum and would lead to heat soak, creating the same warm induction off the line woudn't they?(not sure about this) Anywho, I do plan on trying to fabricate some sort of heat shield from plastic or from sheet aluminum with insulation on the back side.

Good luck

 

Most towns have a noise ordinance. Usually the larger towns and lower income areas have police that can care less about it. However some smaller suburbs by me (especially if it's expensive area) will have cops that will pull over and ticket anyone who sounds noticeably louder then stock.

I havn't had a ticket for that in ten years but last time I did the ticket was for "loud muffler" and I had to pay a $50 fine.

Now I have no doubt the police in your area do not care (mine don't either) about loud cars be aware that if your traveling into uncharted territory you are in definate risk of receiving a citation for loud exhausts like loudmouth, dynomouth, cutout, open borla, ect.

And if they want you they can catch you. Even if your car is faster then the cruiser they are driving they can call ahead for help, roadblocks, ect. Since no one is as fast as the speed of sound yet in the 1/4 mile I would not recommend running.

So to anyone thinking of a loud exhaust I would suggest getting a feel for the local police by seeing if there are a lot of loud cars/trucks in your area and maybe even asking a few if they ever get hassled. I love my loud exhaust and here in Joliet it's no problem. There are so many loud trucks, f-bodys and mustangs here they would go insane trying to pull us all over. Plus they got better things to do. It's the smaller towns that the cops are bored enough to pull you over for something that trivial.

 

Just practice driving it, lol...I know I shaved off a full second that way. I was an awful driver when I first got my car, had never driven anything w/decent speed. Definitely took me a bit to get use to it. I can drive my car like a bastard now, it just took a bunch of practice. If you're an amazing driver right off the bat however, just buy an ATI pro-charger, that should take a full second off.. If you can't afford that, ditto what the rest of the guys above said.