Okay, I've tried to call Summit, but they couldn't help. I've called Hypertech, but they said they could only give advise on a stock car with no mods.

It seems no one can help with my issue.

I have a '98 Z (See mods in Sig). Its an Auto with 4.10 gears. I've programmed the car so it knows it has the 4.10s. My issue comes with the shift points, and firmness.

I am sick of screwing with this car. I can never get first gear right. I have tried all the way from -3 to +4mph to get a nice shift with it. I have yet to get it right.

If you program it to shift early I can never get any traction when I get on it. Even a moderate throttle gain in a pain in the butt.

If I program it to shift later, it feels like there is a TQ converter installed. The car just revs up....no power, almost like slipping until the mph gets higher, and then it slams you into 2nd.

I currently have it at (I believe) +2. When I get on it, it shifts somewhere around 5200 rpms, even though I have changed it to 6400.

I don't want to up the mph anymore as daily driving will be a pain as I'll be waiting for it to shift. I'm really confused, and I would like to know what other people have set up for their car.

Also, another thing that is bugging me: I have the shift frimness set to 25%. You can really feel this on the 1-2 shift, but the rest of the shifts (2-3, and 3-4) feel normal. As if it only adjusts the first shift.


After talking to Summit and Hypertech, they said it was all a personal touch, and they couldn't offer any suggestions. Hypertech said they have never tested it on a car that didn't have stock gears, so they couldn't offer anything to me. wtf?


AUUUURRRGHHGHGHGH!!!!

Some one please help me, no one else can. Please don't say its a personal preferance, as I'd like to know what you have set up.

Any hints are good hints.

Milo

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CAR:
Silver '98 Camaro Z28 | Auto | Hard Top

ENGINE MODS:
HPP+ | 180* Thermostat | Fast Toys Ram Air | Whisper Lid | K&N Filter | MSD 8MM Wires | NGK55 Spark Plugs | '98 SS Single 3" Outlet Exhaust | ! Air Conditioning | ! Cruise Control

SUSPENSION MODS (all done in red):
4.10 Gears | MAC Panhard Rod | MAC Lower Control Arms | T Byrne Sub-Frame Connectors | Eibach Lowering Springs | KYB AGX 8 Way Adj. Shocks | BMR Relocation Brackets | BMR Strut Tower Brace

MISC. MODS:
! CAT | ! Front Steel Bumper | Clear Turn Signals | Front and Rear Blackouts.

 

I guess everyone is waiting for me to reply first?

Ok, let's get one thing out of the way. You say you set it to shift at 6400. Actually, you set the rev limiter at 6400 ... not a shift point. I'll assume you know what purpose the rev limiter serves.

Now, let's go over everything else in your post.

Shift firmness ... Your 1-2 shift will always be the hardest hitting. It's just something with our cars. Your other shifts will be firmer with the HPP, but never as strong as the 1-2. As for the setting, yes, it is a personal preference, but I personally wouldn't go over 50% for risk of damage to the tranny over time. The jury is still out on possible tranny damage, but better safe than sorry.

Also, I think that the tranny settings are only at WOT. I'm not sure on that one. I can ask Hypertech if you want me to. I talk to them on a semi-regular basis and will be over there next week.

Give these settings a shot and let me know how you like it. This is what Hypertech tuned for my 2001 Z28 A4 with 2.73 rear.

Power Tuning - Installed
Rev Limiter - 6400
Shift Firmness - 50%
Rear Gear - 4.10 (if that's what you have)

Shift points:
1-2 = +2
2-3 = +2
3-4 = +3

Let me know what that does for you. If it is still goofy, send me all the details and I'll ask Sean when I go to Hypertech next week.

e-mail:

WS6@midsouth.rr.com


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2001 TransAm WS6, M6 3.42
HPP, TBB, 160* t-stat, MTI Lid, Holley PowerShot, Flowmaster 80

2001 Z28
-- R.I.P. - 06/25/02

[This message has been edited by rncotton (edited July 04, 2002).]

 

There is a Tech Service Bulletin for harsh upshift from 1st to 2nd - the subject reads as follows: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set. It applies to 1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, and Pontiac Firebird with 4L60-E Auto Trans (RPO M30) built prior to Jan 15, 1999. Condition - some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon indicator, vehicles will have been driven more than 20k mi before this condition occurs.

The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that contains the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.

Correction - Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after Jan 15, 1999, and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain revised TCC regulator and isolator valves.

Just figure I put this out there - this may be the problem you're having. I got a '99 Z28 and I think it's doing this. Good luck.

 

HPP3 isn't your problem ... even you say it doesn't shift right no matter where you set it ... that also presumes stock.

Reality is 4.10s are a bad choice, with street tires, on a daily driven A4 car. You can baby it around, but you ahave enough mods to blow the tires off when you try to get on it.

If your hammering it, you're probably just spinning the tires right up to your 1-2 shift point.

Good Luck



------------------
'01 Mystic Teal Z28
A4/3.23/Leather/T-Tops
Mods List Here

12.46/108.87/1.75 60'
319 rwhp/349 rwtq
www.MysticZ28.com

NorCal LS1/LT1

"To play it safe is not to play"

 

definitly dont need the 4.10's with an auto, i think that could a lot of the problem, i would only use those gears on et streets at the track with an auto, but if still have the 10 bolt, it will gernade with a few launches on et streets.

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2000 black WS6 6speed
318 RWHP 322 RWTQ stock
best et: 12.90 with the drag radials and stock 3.42 gear.
bestmph: 109.72 first time out, no mods, on the street tires
Mods: centerforce dual friction clutch, moser 12 bolt w/4.10's
BFG dragradials, PRO 5.0 shifter
whats next: put the borla on, take baffles out of WS6 hood, tb bypass, et streets
hopeing for 12.60's

 

I didn't even think about the 4.10's in an A4 tranny. GEEEZ ... dude, what are you smokin' besides your tires?

If you want to do it right, drop down to 3.73 and sell your 4.10 to a M6 owner.

I would suggest 3.42 and a 3000 stall torque converter. (3200 stall if you're feeling ballsy) That setup would plant your *** in the seat pretty good and let you smoke the tires without even trying.

Yeah ... ditch the 4.10 rear. I was pretty tired last night when I typed that response. Otherwise, I would have said something about the 4.10 being too much.

Oh, if you ever plan to run nitrous, you'll really appreciate the 3.42 and torque converter. With 4.10 you're going to run out of gear pretty quick. (at least, so I've been told)

 

jgkinsofla,
Just a little clarification. The problem started with the '95's (PWM L/U) and it STILL persists on the new ones. The true fix is the TransGo Shift Kit. It changes how the L/U works to gretly reduce wear, plus the new valve you get is redesigned to wear better.


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For direct questions E-mail me subject: Tranny Problems