Last night I raced my friend in his '96 T/A, that is bone stock, not even the slightest modification. He walked my ***, I was emberassed, because there has been a strong friendly competition since we played soccer when we were like seven. He claims his car has 3.42 gears in it, and after some research I found that mine came with the 2.73. Could this have anything to do with my defeat. Would upgrading to the 3.42 be a good decision. I have vowed never to let him beat me again. Help guys, I mean I know us GM guys should stick together, but where I live there is competition between LT1 guys and LS1 guys. Thanks for any input.

 

Get 3.73's and a better stall and never lose to an lt1 again!

 

I heard that the 3.73's would kill my gas mileage and this car is my everyday ride. I can't afford a converter right now...I am focusing on the cheaper mods, ssra, air lid, exhaust, and the sort. However, a converter is a priority. Thanks alot, can you just tell me about those gears and the gas mileage.

 

Going to any numerically higher gear is going to affect gas mileage.

If you average 22 mpg now going to 3.42's you may average 20 and 3.73's you may average 19. This all depends on your driving also. In my 67 I went from 3.55's to 3.90's but since I only drive it around town and not on the freeway I did not notice much of a drop in mileage. When I go to 4.11's in my M6 I plan on just shifting into 5th and 6th sooner so mileage will stay similar.

 

You have my twin car except yours is stock! But you got to represent so you cant be haveing white 98' Zs looseing to LT1s! Dotn worry about it, nothing wrong with your LS1. Just needs to wake up.

I went from 2.73s to 3.42s, to 3.73s. It dosent affect gas mileage that bad, not even noticeable. 3.73s are the way to go. You will regret not doing it right the first time if you get 3.42s. The mods on my car besides nitrous that really made a big difference was my converter which is my number 1 mod, drag radials which made going from a stop awhole nother world compared to street tires, and my 3rd biggest mod would be FULL exhaust. Not just a catback, but longtunes, Ypipe, and catback, or if you dont have alot of money for the full exhaust, then just get the headers and Ypipe, and dump the catback before it goes over the axle into a turndown and also lose 30-45lbs that way. It sounds wicked to. those were my big three mods that made the biggest differences compared to the other stuff. Then you can also do all that little airlid and and all to, but n airlid is a real tiny gain.

If tight on money, u can lose your EGR equipment, there is one pump attatched to that tube that goes into the intake, and another two pumps and a big heavy bracket thats under the drivers side head light. All that BS weighed 15ish lbs. Probabily not much gain but it serves its purpose better in the trash can then under your hood You can also relocate the battery to the trunk. ect ect. Weight loss makes adifference when you lose 5lbs here, 30lbs there, and find another 15 to lose there.

 

Thanks alot Kamaro...My father is an automobile guru, he has seen his fair share of GM cars through the years, especially buick t-types and all that. he is pretty familiar with an LS1, because he owned a 2000 SS M6 about a year ago, anyway he said the gears gotta go but I should do other stuff first. He says go with the 3.42's, but you would know more about LS1's than he would. Anyway, I suppose my point is some say get rid of the gears immediatly and he says wait a while because ill have to do the new differential and he said something about a peg leg rear end. Just tell me what you think.

 

3.42s arent a bad gear either for a daily driver, and im not saying your dad isnt right. Two years ago I went 11.50s at 120mph with 3.42 gears, Nittos, lid, and flowmaster muffler and about the same with 3.73. That is pretty awsome for so little things done. I dont think it would have mattered wether it was 3.73s or 42s. But if you go any further id just get 3.73s, i think its a better drag racing gear to get to start with. If you are running those times, your stock rear end itsself with be on borrowed time, and i reccommend a 12bolt or 9in which is a very costy part.

Just depending on how far you want to take your car, what set up and how soon would be the best factor to decide on what mods you should go with first.

 

Did you guys go from a dig or roll?

Screw a converter... wax him back and dont even tell him about it... get a 100 shot dry kit and hide the whole damn thing.

Then when you wax him pull over to chat and say " something must be wrong with your car man."

 

never loose to an LT1 again now don't get me wrong just bc im an LT1 guy, the LS1 is a better motor but it can be easly beaten by and LT1 just takes a little work . Just remember that their is alway some one faster LS1 or LT1. But you do have the uperhand wiht an LS1 well unless the other guy has an LS2 but we wont get into that. get an airlid and some pipes on that thing. and if i were you i would get 373 their not going to destroy you gas milage that bad.

 

Did you mean 12.5? 11.5 is a little unbelievable with the mods listed. the car from the factory would be hitting mid to low 12's. And I think the fastest time ever recorded for a stock car was 12.89

 

I meant his lt1 / stock lt1. I realize lt1's can be faster. Hell even hondas can be faster than my ls1.

 

If I ever lose to a Honda, I'm gonna quit life.

 

Im sorry, i forgot to mention a 150 dry shot.

btw, there are a few LS1s aound here with stock motors running 11s. With alot of stall, gear, bolt ons, tuneing and weight reduction you would be suprised.

 

I think you need TIRES dude, 'cause I've never seen an LT1 beat an LS1 stock-for-stock, UNLESS the driver sucks, or the tires suck.

The fastest LT1 I've *personally* seen is my buddy's '97 Z28 M6, that went 13.75 in the 1/4. I've also seen (and even run myself) high 13's / low 14's, but usually that will be based on either poor/no traction, or a bad driver.

If your buddy smokes you with a stock LT1, something's either WRONG with your car, or DONE to his.

 

Some 98-99s with 2.73 gears are barely in the 13s. A 3.42 gear is a really good compromise gear. My 2000 (before the heads/cam) ran consistant low 12s with a good 3500 stall and 3.42s. Only power mods being lid, Loudmouth, and SSRA.
If you're anywhere near to me I've got a rear that you could buy and just bolt in. 3.42s, Eaton Heavy Duty posi, aluminum support cover, Raytec solid pinion spacer, 1350 and 1310 yokes, ARP long wheel studs, welded on LCA relocator brackets and will still have the backing plates on it. It's tight and quiet and will hold 1.6 60s and 11.5s all day and night.