Hey all. I'm pretty new when it comes to modding and working on cars, I'm a computer nerd by trade. It's how I bring the bread home. But I have an '02 Z28 that I would like to play with and see what I can do to upgrade it. I don't want to go too crazy, I'm not looking to race or enter any shows. I just want a fun weekend car, as I have another car for a DD. I think it's important to note that I am in love with this car, and don't want to do anything that could irreparably damage it. I also want to be able to do as much work myself as possible, but I have a limited workspace, and don't have an engine lift. I will outsource if need be though.
Right now all it has is a K&N CAI, everything else is stock. I have about $3,500 set aside purely for modding the car, but have no idea where to start. I've heard everything from exhaust to intake to fuel as to beginning places.
One thing I know I'm doing, regardless of mod plan, is taking the manifold out and cleaning it, as I have a really aggravating whistling coming out of it that I need to get rid of. It's driving me up the wall. It's not a loose vacuum fitting or break in the hose, it's coming from inside the manifold itself.

 

What sort of performance are you interested in - drag racing, auto-X, road racing, or just a good all-around cruiser that you can have fun with at the stop lights and running fast through the twisties?

What transmission - 6-speed manual or 4-speed automatic?

 

Just a cruiser that has a little kick and turns some heads. Something that can go fast down the straight-aways, and run fast through the twisties, as you put it (I like that, by the way. I think I'm going to use it)

Alas, it is an automatic. I tossed around the idea of converting it, but after a little research decided it wasn't worth the money, effort, or risk.

 

for more kick,a good stall like a Yank SS3600 or CircleD equivalent and bolt-in LCA relo brackets for traction.
for the twisties,first a good set of aftermarket shocks,I'll let others chime in on what brands. Tires also play a big role in the twisties.
for me,the stock rear suspension seemed more lacking than the stock front suspension.

 

Since an engine is basically just a giant air pump, the first things you need to do is let it breath. Since you've already got the intake side taken care of with the CAI, then your next step is exhaust. Check out youtube to take a listen, but also do your research to make sure it's one of the better flowing exhaust and you're not actually giving up HP for sound. I personally run the SLP 2OTL, but it hasn't been made in years. My next personal favorite is actually the Borla. It's tunable to be loud, or even has plates you can swap in to quiet it up, but it does flow well AND looks great with the dual square tips on each side! Your'e probably looking at $1K installed (maybe slightly less). Of course it is something you can install yourself with ramps in the driveway if you're up for it.

For an auto transmission, a good stall converter may be your next step...my car is a 6 speed, so I know NOTHING about what to recommend there...

If you're then going to go for a good handling car, then the BEST spring/shock option you need to look into is the Strano springs/Koni SA shocks set-up. Since that's going to lower the car about 1.25", you'll also need to add an adj. panhard bar as well as LCA relocation brackets. The adj. panhard bar will allow the rearend to be recentered after lowering and the LCA relocation brackets are needed reposition the LCA's so that you can keep your stock suspension geometry to prevent wheel hp. You might as well add tubular LCA's too while you're at it.

That should all blow through a $3500 budget fairly easily if you pay to have it all installed.

 

Thank you all for the posts and replies. Sorry for the late response, I've been really busy. Had two jobs, just quit my second one. Yay more free time. Not worth it in the end.

Anyway, I'm going with BandDirector's advice and getting a new exhaust. I'm thinking of getting Kooks 1-7/8" headers, but am at a loss after that. I want to lose the y-pipe and go with an x-pipe instead, but keep going back and forth between my different options. Can't seem to settle on any one thing.

 

Sell the $300 K&N intake and get a $100 airbox lid. It will perform the same or better. You can put a K&N filter in it.

Get the 1-3/4" headers, not the 1-7/8". Your plans aren't enough to take advantage of the larger size. Get a Y-pipe from the same company at the same time.

Call Sam Strano at StranoParts.com and AJ him what shocks/springs to get.

Get a catback exhaust that suits your sound preferences. Check out ls1sounds.com to see what you like.

Get a set of subframe connectors.

Get a set of good tires. I recommend moving up in wheel size at the same time. Tire options at the stock Z28 size of 245/50R16 aren't great. If you get a set of SS-sized 17x9" wheels, you can get 275/40R17 tires. If you want, you can go to 17x11 in the rear, using 315/35R17 tires, but then your options are more limited again.

Once you have done the headers, you should get a tune. Dyno tunes are best (and fun), but mail-order tunes are much less expensive and almost as good.

If you still want more power after that, I think a cam upgrade would be a good choice. Plan on another tune at that point.

 

If you put an air lid on it , cut the bottom out of your air box to help with air flow. It actually works. I did mine back in 2000 when I bought the car and it was there until I supercharged it. You might also look into getting the piece that goes into the bottom of the cut air box that extends down to the lower air dam, it will flow more cool air since it doesn't flow over the radiator area.

 

Fast Toys Ram Air Kit FTRA 1998-2002 Camaro & Firebird

 

That would be it.

 

Some good advice here, I'll add my $0.02- Subframe connectors will make the car feel more solid, be a good base if you plan other suspension mods. Stock shocks are pretty cheap, recommend Bilsteins. Again, talk to Sam Strano- The engine is a big air pump. Intake and exhaust are the only differences from the Z28 and the SS, which was rated higher H.P.- a good lid on the intake side, and a cat-back on the outlet. If you can lose the stock "Y"-pipe, do it- I swear GM purposely crushed the stock one to limit H.P. on the Camaro versus the 'Vette. I have run both the 16" and 17" tires on mine- the 17's look more aggressive, but the lower sidewall makes them ride more harshly, and they tend to trammel, feel 'darty' on roads. If you have the 10-spoke mags, they are some of the lightest wheels GM ever made, around 17 lbs. IIRC.