I think you'd be fine running 10w30, the owners manual lists 5w30 as best all around but 10w30 as an option. I think the higher temps would make using 10w30 the best choice.It's just the opposite here in Utah, 5w30 is everywhere and 10w30 is not. Take care........

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'02 35th anniversary edition camaro SS, 6spd, hurst, t-tops...

 

I have an "02 WS6 and at first oil change, 2800 miles, put in Superflo 10w30. No oil consumption and our infamous piston slap was quieter. Per lots of posts on other sites I used Mobil1 SuperSyn 10w30when changed at 6002 miles and slap is louder and lasts longer. I'm going to switch to Redline next change as it is supposed to be the best. Go to LS1.com and due a search on Mobil 1 and you will see the hot debate on oils. Patman is the oil GOD and he makes a good argument for both Redline and Valvoline MaxLife due to their Moly content. He has oil analysis done at various intervals and really knows his stuff!!

 

Yeh it should be. The most important time is the first 1000 miles. you should try to break the car in easy.. use all the gears at different speeds((within reason of course))
Decelerating going down hill is important because you break in the opposite side of the piston and causes eqaul wear on both sides.
By the way my Oil pressure is around 60psi

 

Thanks Buddy, I appreciate the info. I love these cars. Long live American MUSCLE!!!

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'02 35th anniversary edition camaro SS, 6spd, hurst, t-tops...

 

Thanks Man, I think I broke her in right then, I drove it up some canyon roads and coming back used the gears to slow down, she had about 350 miles on her then, it was a riot. I didn't use the cruise and varied the speed for about a thousand miles. She seems to be loosening up real nice. Thanks a lot for the reply. Take care..........

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'02 35th anniversary edition camaro SS, 6spd, hurst, t-tops...

 

Is this documented somewhere? According to my dealership's service manager, the LS1 in the Vette and Z28 both come from the factory with Mobil1 synthetic and they stopped using any "break in" additives long long ago.

As for the 5W30 / 10W30 question...
Use 5W30 if there is a chance of driving in freezing weather. If you live in a 90 climate use 10W30. That advice also came from my dealership's service manager.

However, he also said to change synthetic oil every 5,000 miles. Consumer reports did a study a few years back and concluded scientifically that there was no gain by changing conventional oil at 3,000 as opposed to a 5,000 mile interval. I've put over 250,000 miles on 3 different cars in the past 7 years and never had any problem with engine wear. I also find it easier to remember to change the oil every time the odometer clicks 5,000 miles. 5,10,15,20,25,... If synthetic oil is supposed to double the interval, I would expect to safely get 10,000 miles on it. Should the filter be changed every 5,000? Should a sample be sent out for analysis at 5,000?

 

If it was true that the Z-28 came with Mobil 1 you would have a sticker on your engine and the oil cap that reads mobil one synthetic. Go look at a vette engine in a dealership you'll see what I am talking about. As Far as your service manager says about not using friction mod Just simply ask him how the car engine would seed properly.
(what I mean by seed is, break in the Gaskets and O rings and all of the other things that would leak if you did not use a friction mod.) That should have him thinking for a little while. alot of the service guys will tell you what ever you want to hear. I never use them. I am not saying some of them aren't very knowledgable. Just that alot of them just want to do as little as possible and still keep you happy..

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 2002Z28SSConv:
[B] Is this documented somewhere? According to my dealership's service manager, the LS1 in the Vette and Z28 both come from the factory with Mobil1 synthetic and they stopped using any "break in" additives long long ago.

 

As far as friction additives and other synthetic oils go , there will always be debates. Since your well above the recommended 500 mile break-in period your fine. Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1, they are all very good and although "technically" some may be considered better than others, I doubt that difference will make the motor last any longer. When was the last time you owned a vehicle in which you had it so long the motor wore out from wear? 99% of us will have long parted with our cars before that time comes, so which oil to use? In my book that answer is simple, the cheapest very good synthetic you can find and that is usually Mobil 1 at Walmart. This might make some mad but those spending the extra $$ on Amsoil and Royal Purple etc., I think are throwing their hard earned money away. Especially if you are modifying your car, which most of us do, the chances are you will break something internally before the motor wears out. I run the sythetics for one major reason, it pulls heat out of the motor much better than regular oil and it lubricates better helping efficiency. Heat kills and if you can reduce it in any motorized system you are helping that system last longer.
One last comment, 5W-30 vs 10W-30, the "W" refers to winter, the number refers to the oils viscosity at 0 degrees celcius. If you live in a hotter climate, Arizona, Florida, etc, running 10W-30 should have no real affect on your engine or engine wear since you are always well above the 0 degrees celcius number. It wouldn't hurt though as a precaution to use 5W-30 during the winter months and 10W-30 during the summer. 10W-30 has a thicker base (10W) than 5W and it will provide better viscosity in hotter climates.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, loudmouth
ported MAFs

 

Don't you mean seat??? I think the correct term is that the new piston rings must seat properly, not seed properly. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's sorta like a carburetor where you have a "needle and seat" - the rings must "seat" into the cylinder and create a good seal.

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2002 Z28 - A4, Blk/blk, leather, T-tops, sport appearance package

1996 Sunfire coupe - 2.2L, M5 - performance mods?? Needs too many to list!!

1981 Z28 - sold Aug. 2000
- 383 stroker, TH350 trans., 3.42 posi
Pics

 

I've run both full synthetic (Mobil 1) and semi synthetic oil in my car. Neither will damage the engine as long as the oil is at the recommended weight. Be aware with the semi-synthetic you will have to change your oil more ofen though. I say stay with the Mobil 1 full synthetic. It costs more, but it matches well with the engine.

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2001 Sunset Orange Z28

1992 Camaro RS 305 Anniversary edition
(white with red stripes)

 

I'm really happy with the way the motor is loosening up and I've heard only good about Mobil 1 synthetic. I think I'll still change it at 5000 miles, cheap insurance. Thanks for the reply.........

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'02 35th anniversary edition camaro SS, 6spd, hurst, t-tops...K&N filter

 

You are correct, my friend made a *** out of me the whole day.. All I can say in my de--fence is working Double shifts three days in a row messes with your spelling.

 

I'm sad to see so many people giving the wrong information. Synthetic is not slicker and does not slip past rings and will not eat anything. The molecules in synthetic oil are much much smaller than conventional oil. That's the main thing that makes it better. Draw a 12 inch diameter circle with one inch diameter circles inside of that, those smaller circles are conventional oil. Now draw a 12 inch diameter circle with 1/8 inch diameter circles inside of that. That's synthetic. Now imagine all those smaller molecules going places that conventional oils molecules can't. That's why if you take a high mileage motor and put synthetic in it that it tends to smoke more.