I have the 2.73 geared A4. Is there a huge difference in that and the 3.23 option? Is there going to be a big difference if I go all the way up to a 3.73, and is this too high? Is this worthless without a torque convereter? Also, does anyone recomend where I can buy gears from or is JEG's good enough. Sorry for all of the questions but I just found I know someone who could set the gears up for me (cheap or free) and was wondering how worthwhile this would be. Thanks a ton
Dustin

 

the 3:23 are going to be a much better option than the 2:73...but 3:73 are better yet (if you have traction). a torque converter would be better above them all...id look into that setup if i were you. but if you go gears...go 3:73

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1999 Camaro SS A4 Black/Black/Dark Gray w/ Torch Red Hood Scoop and Torch Red Rear Stripe... 3:23 || SLP Loudmouth || SLP AirBox Lid w/ K&N || SLP Bowtie Grille || SLP CAI || SLP SFC || SLP STB || AZP&S Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator w/ 3psi Boost || Sullivan Aluminum Racing Pedals || Yank ST3500 || B&M 24K Tranny Cooler || Jet-Hot Hooker LT Headers w/ ORY || Dual 3'' Summit Cutouts || Hypertech 160 T-Stat || SLP Fan Switch || MAF-Translator || 17 x 9.5 Aluminum Z06 Wheels || Nitto 555R's || Macewen White Faced Gauges w/ Red Dash Bulbs & White Shift Selector Overlays || Xenon Headlights.

Me <------- Saving EVERY PENNY from now (Aug. '02) until summer '03 to TURBOCHARGE the SS!!

 

You can buy used 3.42 gears out of 6speed cars in the for sale forum for around $40 - $50 if you look.

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- Steve - 1998 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
LS1 A4, 2.73's, Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 245/50/ZR16's, Direct Flow Lid, GMAF, !FRA, Loudmouth, 3" Y-Pipe, AIT Mod, Fan Switch Mod
13.774 @ 103.33, 300.5rwhp & 308.6rwtq, 97+ RPO Codes, Join The CamaroZ28.Com Users Webring

 

Going to 3.73's would probably leave you unable to get traction without LCA's & Nittos. 3.42 is still very streetable but not overkill. our carrier size is differnet though that m6's. Ls1speed.com sells gears that will fit out series 2 carriers directly.
But in reality what you want first FOR SURE is atorque converter. Then you won't even want gears!


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2000 Z28-Deep Maroon
Mac Headers With Off-Road Pipe
Vigilante Torque Converter 2800 stall 2.5 STR
Hooker 3" catback w/cut out & McCord
FTRA Kit
Dynamic Motorsports SFC's

 

Little late here but...
I went from 2.73 to 3.73
Big difference in bottom end torque, fishtailing hitting second is no problem.
With the 2.73 at 70 mph on the hyway I was turning about 1300 to 1500 rpm with the 3.73 it's about 2300. Gas mileage went from and avg. of 21 22 mpg to around 18 but hard to judge since the car is so much more fun to drive I haven't driven like a normal person since the gear swap.
Doug

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'99 Z28 'vert
A4 3.73
SLP LT, cats and y-pipe
Dynomouth
FTRA
HHP III

 

It sounds like 3.73's is what I want then. I only have 3000 miles on the car so I may hold off (still deciding if I can wait the warrenty out) but gears will definately be a priority.

 

My car also has the 2.73s and has only 3000 miles on it as well.

Someone mentioned that if you get the converter, you won't even want gears.....

My question is, is it worth getting a converter, and just sticking with 2.73s? And also, how difficult of an install job is a torque converter? What's a good stall number as well?...just for street

Thanks

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Red 2002 Z28 A4
Leather, T-Tops
All Stock.
Mods soon - Lid, Exhaust

 

IMO, I'd rather go with gears than a torque converter. Once gears are in, they're set. There's no question as to what they'll do, or when they'll work. They're always there.

A high stall torque converter may be great for drag racing since it lets the motor get up into its peak power range, but it's also harder on the transmission in the long run, since it's "slipping" more of the time than a stock converter (which stalls between 1600-1800rpm). Because of the slipping, the converter causes the tranny to run hotter than normal, and that's why guys always have to install separate tranny coolers with converters - to keep the temperature down.

For day to day driving, I don't think that a stall converter is the best route. I know that for my car, I plan on installing a set of 3.42's one day --- why 3.42's??? Well, for one thing, I've had them before, and I know how they feel, and secondly, I want a little better highway mileage than 3.73's offer, and I'm willing to sacrifice that extra low end gain (although a 3.42 to a 2.73 is still a big improvement).

Those may be just my opinions, but it's a fact that a new converter will be harder on your tranny (and it will also void warranty - if that's an issue for you). A transmission shop near me that rebuilt a TH350 for my old Z28 would not install high-stall converters because they didn't want to get involved with the soon-to-come transmission problems and complaints that people would have afterward.

Just something to think about.

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2002 Z28 - A4, 2.73's, Blk/blk, leather, T-tops, sport appearance package - just bought on June 26, 2002! - Pics

1981 Z28 - 383, TH350 trans., 3.42 posi - sold August, 2000 - Pics

1973 Camaro - Dad's & my project in the works - to be built: 355 Chevy, 11.5:1 pop-ups, "camel hump" heads (w/2.02 valves), solid cam, 4-speed.....it should be quick! - Pics

 

So a converter pretty much voids warrantee.

That makes sense I guess.

Does the same hold true for a gear swap? Would I have to have chevy do it, or could a mechanic shop do the swap while keeping the warrantee intact?

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Red 2002 Z28 A4
Leather, T-Tops
All Stock.
Mods soon - Lid, Exhaust

 

The warranty is void ONLY IF the aftermarket part is directly responsible for causing a particular failure. The warranty isn't void by simply installing aftermarket parts.

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'99 Z28 A4 BLACK
▪ SLP air lid, K&N filter, air box mod, Borla exhaust, HPP3, 160* stat, Magnecor 8.5 mm wires, NGK TR55 plugs
▪ Pioneer DEH-P77DH, Polk speakers