Well, regardless of ET, I'd consider a 1.7 60' to be pretty darn fast.

You give this advice without any caveats, and that's where you're going wrong. You don't mention that the car's road handling is going to suck ***** with those components removed. Sure, if your car is a dedicated drag car and trailer queen, remove the STB and swaybar. Any car that's street driven should keep the swaybar. If you never autocross, and you're fairly satisfied with the car's current handling, don't bother getting an STB.

I drag, autocross, and daily-drive my Z28. I'm getting a strut tower brace.

 

They run about $500. Typical gains are .5-.7 in ET and +1 in trap speed(traction is key so drag radials may be a good investment). Texas speed and performance usually has good prices on them. You have to remove the transmission completely so install is a bit difficult without proper lifts, tranny jack, ect. Labor costs are usually $250-$350 depending on where you go. I paid $275 for the converter to be installed and another $50 for the tranny cooler.

Best mod I have done, that's for sure.

 

12.991 @ 108.151, 2.0 60, R/T .024 on street tires with ONLY one mod: An SLP Cold Air Intake System. That's all, nuttin else, no other bolt-ons.

(79 degrees F, 73% RH, DA 2,111 ft, no spare tire, 1/16 tank of 110 octane gas, 12lbs pressure rear tires, 50 lbs pressure front tires (Goodyear Eagle GS-C's which were the factory tires)

2002 Z-28

 

OK, my bad. I guess I could have said that the no STB and removing the front sway bar was for the track only, but I figured most people would be able to figure that out. Besides, it only takes 10-20 min, and can be taken off/put back on in the pits before and after a day at the strip.

 

Thanks for all the details, but you forgot to say A4 or M6. Why 110 octane on the stock motor? Wallet getting too fat?

 

Headers and converter shaved off .9 seconds off my ET. Two of the best mods for the money

 

I've heard people say this before. What exactly does this do?

 

weight loss

 

Is that it? I read something about body flex earlier.

 

Not only weight loss, it allows the front end to rise more planting the rear tires harder.

 

The front swaybar limits body flex in the front. With a big torquey motor, the body wants to twist when you hit it off the line. If the swaybar is there to limit that twist, it will pull some weight off one of the rear wheels. If it's not there, all the weight that should be on the rear wheels stays there.

I really don't think you'll see even a 0.1 difference in a 12.x car.

 

I think u said it yourself, stall convertor and sticky tires and your all but guaranteed. With a stock LS1 you should be practically at the door anyway. So the convertor w/tires should get it in. Cheap exhaust and lid wouldnt hurt to help push either. If you arent there yet start throwing stuff out, spare tire can go, you only need one seat. Hell you see these guys on pimp my ride!? If i had one of there cars and got caught up in a street race, oh boy i would be chucking everything out as im flying down the road. DVD's, tv's, gone. stereo system out the window.