Horsepower?????
#1
Horsepower?????
i have a camaro ss and its my first car and i was wondering what are some ways of getting alot more horespower without considering noss or forced induction. so far it has a slp exhaust, msd ignition n intake, and im planning on buying a fast lsx intake with a fast throttle body so other that any ideas for more hp????????
#2
Re: Horsepower?????
If its your first car I suggest you drive it as it is for AT LEAST 6 months. My first was a V6 camaro and you have no idea how thankful I am that my dad didnt let me get the V8 off the bat. Please be more adult than all the other lucky guys like you who get a bad *** car like that and give yourself a half a year to get a real good feel for the car and the way it responds to the way you drive. After you're 100% sure you can predict how the car will react, then its time to start modding it.
But if you dont want to take my advice (and i'm not some old guy, I'm 20) do LT headers, ported TB, with the other regular bolt ons and free mods. The fast intakes are really only neseccary with a Head/cam (H/C) car. Otherwise you'll be killing low end too much to really help. The best bet if you want an intake is the LS6 intake from a wrecked 2001 and up camaro or corvette.
But if you dont want to take my advice (and i'm not some old guy, I'm 20) do LT headers, ported TB, with the other regular bolt ons and free mods. The fast intakes are really only neseccary with a Head/cam (H/C) car. Otherwise you'll be killing low end too much to really help. The best bet if you want an intake is the LS6 intake from a wrecked 2001 and up camaro or corvette.
#5
Re: Horsepower?????
you dont need to upgrade/port your throttle body unless you go FI, H/C, or nitrous. Even then you can still leave it stock. Go with basic boltons like headers, roller rockers, gears. You should also decide what you want from the car before you start modding it to prevent unnecessary mods. So like posted above i would drive it around for a couple months to help you decide what you want.
#6
Re: Horsepower?????
Even though we can guess its a 98+ from the fact he is considering a FAST LSx intake, there are still enough differences between the years of LS1 engines that knowing the year of the car would be helpful.
Helpful hint : Add a "signature" with basic info about your car, including the year, tranny type and any major mods. That way people can give you specific, accurate answers to your questions.
If you are interested primarily in engine mods, use the "LS1/LS...... Engine Tech" forum.
Helpful hint : Add a "signature" with basic info about your car, including the year, tranny type and any major mods. That way people can give you specific, accurate answers to your questions.
If you are interested primarily in engine mods, use the "LS1/LS...... Engine Tech" forum.
#8
Re: Horsepower?????
there are benefits and disadvantages, or not really disadvantages but things that are different on 99's..
benefits: lowest number of SS's in 98+,and a true reading temp gauge. and thats all i can think of
differences with other years: 98's had, perimeter bolt valve covers, ls1 intake, different PCM than 99+
sum1 add if i missed anything
benefits: lowest number of SS's in 98+,and a true reading temp gauge. and thats all i can think of
differences with other years: 98's had, perimeter bolt valve covers, ls1 intake, different PCM than 99+
sum1 add if i missed anything
Last edited by GhostZ28; 09-17-2006 at 06:25 PM.
#11
Re: Horsepower?????
First thing you need is a lid. $100 for 10 rwhp and it takes 15 minutes tops to install. You can have your throttle body ported for about $75 and that is proven to gain 5-8 rwhp. Underdrive pulley can offer you another 7-10 rwhp. Then long tube headers either with a catted Y or ORY. Typical gains are 20 rwhp.
It's been proven that the LSX intake is not worth the money for bolt-on cars. The gains over a ls6 intake is minimal. BUT if you get a cam down the line and especially if you get heads down the line, the fast 90/90 becomes worth its weight in gold (I hear 20 rwhp over ls6 on a heads/cam car). So if you get the fast 90/90 then skip the ported TB in the first paragraph. If you get the LS6 intake then go ahead and port away.
Now the $64,000 question. Automatic or Manual?
Automatics absolutely, positively and without a doubt must get a 3000-4000 stall torque converter I highly recommend a 3400-3600 for a bolt-on car. You get alot quicker off the line, better shift extensions and the car is 10x more fun to drive. Tranny cooler is a must with any converter and they are only $50 so it's cheap insurance.
Manuals on the other hand are in definate need of a new shifter. Pro 5.0 or lous shortstick are the two I usually see in sigs. Skip shift eliminator is also a good idea from what I hear.
That should get you pretty quick indeed. Then when the mod bug has you under its control you'll be looking at suspension, heads & cam, N20, strokers and probably a divorce
It's been proven that the LSX intake is not worth the money for bolt-on cars. The gains over a ls6 intake is minimal. BUT if you get a cam down the line and especially if you get heads down the line, the fast 90/90 becomes worth its weight in gold (I hear 20 rwhp over ls6 on a heads/cam car). So if you get the fast 90/90 then skip the ported TB in the first paragraph. If you get the LS6 intake then go ahead and port away.
Now the $64,000 question. Automatic or Manual?
Automatics absolutely, positively and without a doubt must get a 3000-4000 stall torque converter I highly recommend a 3400-3600 for a bolt-on car. You get alot quicker off the line, better shift extensions and the car is 10x more fun to drive. Tranny cooler is a must with any converter and they are only $50 so it's cheap insurance.
Manuals on the other hand are in definate need of a new shifter. Pro 5.0 or lous shortstick are the two I usually see in sigs. Skip shift eliminator is also a good idea from what I hear.
That should get you pretty quick indeed. Then when the mod bug has you under its control you'll be looking at suspension, heads & cam, N20, strokers and probably a divorce
#13
Re: Horsepower?????
Originally Posted by darrens99formul
First thing you need is a lid. $100 for 10 rwhp and it takes 15 minutes tops to install. You can have your throttle body ported for about $75 and that is proven to gain 5-8 rwhp. Underdrive pulley can offer you another 7-10 rwhp. Then long tube headers either with a catted Y or ORY. Typical gains are 20 rwhp.
It's been proven that the LSX intake is not worth the money for bolt-on cars. The gains over a ls6 intake is minimal. BUT if you get a cam down the line and especially if you get heads down the line, the fast 90/90 becomes worth its weight in gold (I hear 20 rwhp over ls6 on a heads/cam car). So if you get the fast 90/90 then skip the ported TB in the first paragraph. If you get the LS6 intake then go ahead and port away.
Now the $64,000 question. Automatic or Manual?
Automatics absolutely, positively and without a doubt must get a 3000-4000 stall torque converter I highly recommend a 3400-3600 for a bolt-on car. You get alot quicker off the line, better shift extensions and the car is 10x more fun to drive. Tranny cooler is a must with any converter and they are only $50 so it's cheap insurance.
Manuals on the other hand are in definate need of a new shifter. Pro 5.0 or lous shortstick are the two I usually see in sigs. Skip shift eliminator is also a good idea from what I hear.
That should get you pretty quick indeed. Then when the mod bug has you under its control you'll be looking at suspension, heads & cam, N20, strokers and probably a divorce
It's been proven that the LSX intake is not worth the money for bolt-on cars. The gains over a ls6 intake is minimal. BUT if you get a cam down the line and especially if you get heads down the line, the fast 90/90 becomes worth its weight in gold (I hear 20 rwhp over ls6 on a heads/cam car). So if you get the fast 90/90 then skip the ported TB in the first paragraph. If you get the LS6 intake then go ahead and port away.
Now the $64,000 question. Automatic or Manual?
Automatics absolutely, positively and without a doubt must get a 3000-4000 stall torque converter I highly recommend a 3400-3600 for a bolt-on car. You get alot quicker off the line, better shift extensions and the car is 10x more fun to drive. Tranny cooler is a must with any converter and they are only $50 so it's cheap insurance.
Manuals on the other hand are in definate need of a new shifter. Pro 5.0 or lous shortstick are the two I usually see in sigs. Skip shift eliminator is also a good idea from what I hear.
That should get you pretty quick indeed. Then when the mod bug has you under its control you'll be looking at suspension, heads & cam, N20, strokers and probably a divorce
Can you give a tip what manufacture you mean with Torq Converter and Transmission Cooler. I are german and on the Autobahn i loose 1 time my transmission -> overheating
The transmission are bad on long faster driving and i wont waste money in transmission repairs.
Is it needed to remove the transmission to build in the Torq Converter?
#15
Re: Horsepower?????
Originally Posted by JACK RABBITz
Can you give a tip what manufacture you mean with Torq Converter and Transmission Cooler. I are german and on the Autobahn i loose 1 time my transmission -> overheating
The transmission are bad on long faster driving and i wont waste money in transmission repairs.
Is it needed to remove the transmission to build in the Torq Converter?
The transmission are bad on long faster driving and i wont waste money in transmission repairs.
Is it needed to remove the transmission to build in the Torq Converter?
Vigilante
TCI
In that order for price and quality on torque converters.
Transmission cooler I recommend is the B&M 24K for $50. You have to remove the transmission to install a converter. Most Transmission places charge $250-$350 USD for this.
Hope that helped.