Super, Thank you GhostZ28 & darrens99formul.

Ill search in www and order that stuff. Big THX.

When i not found on big sides like summit, ill ask

 

Yank does direct sales only. No vendors will have them. Go to http://www.converter.cc/

Vigilante is made by Precision Industries and is sold by any of these site sponsors https://www.camaroz28.com/misc/vendorindex/

 

Whats the best one?
If there any attention about that thing? I read about Torq Converters in Tech Articles on Chevy High Performance´s webside.
There comes oil inside. Is the oils specification important?

In an other article in a magazin (when ever a friend go to canada or the usa he must bring back magazines ) i read about the YANK Pro 4100 Extreme whitch have 6 connection mounting lugs. The people filling in A QUART (what the mean? Whats a QUART? Whats that in Metric?) of Castrol Dexron III. But that converter needs to insert 3 new holes in to the flywheel. Is that allready needet (on any other new torq converters)? Can i get another flywheel who have 6 holes?
Sorry for that many questions, i wont waste this topic. Tell me please when its better to start an own topic.

 

I can't give you the information you need but I can lead you in the right direction. I would google search quart to metric conversion. As for the other questions, I would call Yank directly. They make the best converters IMO and should be able to set you up with the right converter for your application.

Yank---->1-775-826-9955

 

Thx for answere.
I read on yanks webside the faq about torq converters and im wondering if the car will loose torq on the lower rpm range and give that torq on higher ranges like 3400. Is it right?
Is the car on the street (not only on track) faster or other word "Quicker" with torq converter or is a converter only needed on track?
In my acknowledge i think now, that the highest point of torq is moved by the torq converter, is that right? Stock 2000rpm to 3400rpm with a yank!?

 

Our motors make the most torque at or above 4000rpm so yes a torque converter will make it quick on the street too.
The torque doesn't move when adding a higher stall. The torque is in the same place. The higher rpm stall allow the motor to reach the torque rpm range faster rather than having to wait for the to accelerate up to that rpm.
When first taking off with a stock converter the motor will rev to 1200 rpm then accelerate slowly until it gets to the peak torque where it starts to accelerate much faster. With a high stall when first taking off the motor will rev to 3000 or more accelerating much faster because it is making more torque at that rpm.

 

Oh good info, then i cant make a mistake with buying
Thx
darrens99formul write in this topic, that a 3400 till 3600 is a good option, then ill take that thing.

 

wow, this thread got hijacked


Uh, he has an SS.




How much power do you want?

(these are approximations)

(naturally aspirated)
boltons: 330-375 rwhp
heads and cam: 375-450 rwhp
strokers: 400-600 rwhp

(forced induction/power adder)
supercharger/turbo: 420-550 rwhp
nitrous: 400-550 rwhp

stroker + forced induction/power adder: 600+ rwhp

 

This needs to be a sticky at the top... very nicely put

 

Why the rolleyes at that comment? A SSRA will make good gains over a 98 and up SS hood.

 

Agreed. SSRA is definately good for a tenth at the track. Guys with SS's and WS6's need to understand that the hood is mainly for looks. Regardless of what the dealerships and GM told you, the hoods are not functional ram air and do NOT add 20HP. Both hoods have design flaws.

The SS hood brings air in towards the back of the hood even though the intake is in the front of the motor. So the air has to go in, back towards the front of the motor and then do a 180 into the airbox. Lets just say that by the time this all happens you lost a wee bit of air preasure. Not to mention the hot engine bay had a chance to warm that air up a bit before it gets to the airbox

WS6 design was a little better since it did bring the air in the front of the hood and straight into the airbox. The flaw with this design was that the hood left a gap between the nostrils and the front of the airbox (1-2" I believe). So the air will still be cooler making this hood a functional CAI. But the WS6 hood could hardly be considered "ram air" since the air preasure is reduced. Kind of like if you compare a straw that is in tact with one that has a few pin holes poked in it

The SSRA design is pretty simple. It brings air in from just under the bumper and then straight up through the bottom of the airbox. The kit also provides a rubber strip to block the front of the airbox where you no longer want air coming in from. I probably wouldn't buy this kit if I had a true WS6 with the hood and raised airbox but I would recommend it to anyone else. I like mine