FIPK vs. Direct flo airlid
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 179
From: Northern Cali
As for your second link, the guy added a lot more than just an FIPK and got 28 RWHP.
Oh, and he also got rid of his FIPK when got heads/cam. Wonder why.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 339
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Originally posted by Dave@808
It's all good Will. I have been building high power stuff for over 16 years. Installed (17) blower kits on EFI cars, Countless N20 installations, suspension, exhaust...you name it. Doesn't mean I know more about the FIPK than the next guy though. I like the FIPK, just wanted to see some back to back testing......
I admit to spending waaaaayyy too much time on thsi thread though. Back to work!
It's all good Will. I have been building high power stuff for over 16 years. Installed (17) blower kits on EFI cars, Countless N20 installations, suspension, exhaust...you name it. Doesn't mean I know more about the FIPK than the next guy though. I like the FIPK, just wanted to see some back to back testing......
I admit to spending waaaaayyy too much time on thsi thread though. Back to work!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 231
Originally posted by BlazeOne
True the FIPK draws in more air but your engine takes the effort to suck it in. Its almost like running your car with nothing in front of the throttle body.
With the lid, you create the straw effect and the air intake has more velocity. The lid creates a "streamline" effect. Thats why the older muscle cars use to put stacks on their carbs. With more velocity you get more oxygen.
We replaced the FIPK on a SS that dynoed 303 at the rear. With the !FRA and whisper lid we got it back to 330. Streamline is the key.
True the FIPK draws in more air but your engine takes the effort to suck it in. Its almost like running your car with nothing in front of the throttle body.
With the lid, you create the straw effect and the air intake has more velocity. The lid creates a "streamline" effect. Thats why the older muscle cars use to put stacks on their carbs. With more velocity you get more oxygen.
We replaced the FIPK on a SS that dynoed 303 at the rear. With the !FRA and whisper lid we got it back to 330. Streamline is the key.
BTW, thanks to all who gave their imput. Gave me alot to think about.
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Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 6,247
From: Charlotte,MI USA
Did any of you read the 3rd gen atticle in the previous issue of GM hightech? The one where they were trying to get into the 11s with a built up 3rd gen?
It was very interesting to me that they took off their cold air setup to change in an FPIK style filter directly on the throttle body to try for that last tenth that they needed because the open filter had dynoed so much better than the cold air setup. Well they closed the hood and went down the track 1 tenth slower than with the cold air setup. Switched back to the CAI and gained the tenth back. It seemed to them that something that dynos well doesn't always go down the track better. Drawing in to much hot air. Their words not mine. Go read up on it. I personally will never run an open filter under my hood and I may never dyno as high as some that do. See ya at the track
It was very interesting to me that they took off their cold air setup to change in an FPIK style filter directly on the throttle body to try for that last tenth that they needed because the open filter had dynoed so much better than the cold air setup. Well they closed the hood and went down the track 1 tenth slower than with the cold air setup. Switched back to the CAI and gained the tenth back. It seemed to them that something that dynos well doesn't always go down the track better. Drawing in to much hot air. Their words not mine. Go read up on it. I personally will never run an open filter under my hood and I may never dyno as high as some that do. See ya at the track
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
From: Phoenix, AZ
I didn’t get to read that article, but honestly I think it’s been the most interesting thing in this entire thread. I don’t really know much about intakes other than the FIPK, because its dyno numbers were higher so I assumed it to be the best. This thread is slowly changing my mind.
If someone goes with a lid, what in everyone’s opinion is the best setup? IE, fast toys, cai, so forth and so on. What kind of power would one expect to gain?
I’m sure this has been asked before, but products change every day, so I’d rather get the freshest ideas.
PS, I wish in that article, it would have been possible to run the Volant setup. In theory, it seems like the best approach, and yet … no one seems to buy one. Any thoughts?
If someone goes with a lid, what in everyone’s opinion is the best setup? IE, fast toys, cai, so forth and so on. What kind of power would one expect to gain?
I’m sure this has been asked before, but products change every day, so I’d rather get the freshest ideas.
PS, I wish in that article, it would have been possible to run the Volant setup. In theory, it seems like the best approach, and yet … no one seems to buy one. Any thoughts?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 607
From: Casselberry FL USA
I did hydralock my motor after realizing too late how deep a standing puddle was in a parking lot. At that point in time I had done the FRA as well as removed the extra radiator shrouding (sometimes called FRA2). I had a K&N filter (don't the wives tale about the film will 'stop' water from penetrating the filter). Filter dripped when I took it out, and there was water puddled in my throttle body. I'm sure it hit the air dam and splashed right up against the filter.
Insurance covered it under comprehensive. I now have FTRA. During the summer months I bring along the block-off plate, but it's a pain to install. Talk about being paranoid in the rain after that debacle
Insurance covered it under comprehensive. I now have FTRA. During the summer months I bring along the block-off plate, but it's a pain to install. Talk about being paranoid in the rain after that debacle
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1998
Posts: 6,247
From: Charlotte,MI USA
Kinyu,
If I (now that means that this is just my OPINION) were to go from scratch right now, I'd get a Texas Speed lid and a Super Sucker.
I'm glad that the Ins Co. covered you. I too am really paranoid after installing the Super Sucker and will not even drive in the rain without putting in my home made block off plate. I designed mine so that I remove a screw to take out the sealer plate for the stock intake slot, put in the block off plate and put the screw back in. Really easy
If I (now that means that this is just my OPINION) were to go from scratch right now, I'd get a Texas Speed lid and a Super Sucker.
Originally posted by JimMueller
I did hydralock my motor after realizing too late how deep a standing puddle was in a parking lot. At that point in time I had done the FRA as well as removed the extra radiator shrouding (sometimes called FRA2). I had a K&N filter (don't the wives tale about the film will 'stop' water from penetrating the filter). Filter dripped when I took it out, and there was water puddled in my throttle body. I'm sure it hit the air dam and splashed right up against the filter.
Insurance covered it under comprehensive. I now have FTRA. During the summer months I bring along the block-off plate, but it's a pain to install. Talk about being paranoid in the rain after that debacle
I did hydralock my motor after realizing too late how deep a standing puddle was in a parking lot. At that point in time I had done the FRA as well as removed the extra radiator shrouding (sometimes called FRA2). I had a K&N filter (don't the wives tale about the film will 'stop' water from penetrating the filter). Filter dripped when I took it out, and there was water puddled in my throttle body. I'm sure it hit the air dam and splashed right up against the filter.
Insurance covered it under comprehensive. I now have FTRA. During the summer months I bring along the block-off plate, but it's a pain to install. Talk about being paranoid in the rain after that debacle
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 390
From: Corpus Christi, Texas, US
out of all the lids now i would go with the new texas speed lid, it is designed with no corners, more evenly fit to the opening, plus you can get it in 85 mm. I got a whisper lid, and these new texas speed lids look nice.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 390
From: Corpus Christi, Texas, US
sorry jason TA, not trying to promote but the site is http://www.texas-speed.com/ if you want to check out the lid. Hell maybe they want a sponsorship, they just got the site running last week.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 966
From: Chicago
Originally posted by Dave@808
So where is this proof that I missed reading? I didn't see one back to back dyno sheet posted. All I did see, was a bunch of guys "claiming" 20+hp gains.
See the posts of those following yours with dyno graphs thats called proof.
Right. I bet if I remove the whole front fascia I could realize even more gains from going with the FIPK. I'll call it the front fascia/FIPK free mod!
So where is this proof that I missed reading? I didn't see one back to back dyno sheet posted. All I did see, was a bunch of guys "claiming" 20+hp gains.
See the posts of those following yours with dyno graphs thats called proof.
Right. I bet if I remove the whole front fascia I could realize even more gains from going with the FIPK. I'll call it the front fascia/FIPK free mod!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 390
From: Corpus Christi, Texas, US
if i removed mine i would have an inch of humidity crap on my windshield every night. As for the gains, they will lower b/c the dynoe's are done with the hood open. We need track times not dyno times. Last time i checked i'm not driving a supra
