EGR block off plate + tune?
EGR block off plate + tune?
Guys, i think im going to break down and get a tune. Would it be wise to put a EGR block off plate and take all the EGR stuff off before a tune, or should i just leave it on the car. Where can i buy this block off plate or is this simple enough for me to tackle? Next step after this is getting a torque converter or would it be better to do the TQ Converter first then tune? What converter should i go with? All i have is bolt on's.
Last edited by savage99ss; Aug 19, 2008 at 09:28 AM.
Delete the EGR system and install the block-off plates before the tune. Also, if you're going with a looser converter, especially anything over a 3200 stall, a tune would be highly recommended. Anything over a 4000 stall and it's pretty much mandatory. If I were you I would delete the EGR and install the converter, then get the tune done.
Delete the EGR system and install the block-off plates before the tune. Also, if you're going with a looser converter, especially anything over a 3200 stall, a tune would be highly recommended. Anything over a 4000 stall and it's pretty much mandatory. If I were you I would delete the EGR and install the converter, then get the tune done.
which converter do you like. The only other step for my car would be a cam but im not doing that anytime soon. what type of stall would you go with. im open for suggestions.
Delete the EGR system and install the block-off plates before the tune. Also, if you're going with a looser converter, especially anything over a 3200 stall, a tune would be highly recommended. Anything over a 4000 stall and it's pretty much mandatory. If I were you I would delete the EGR and install the converter, then get the tune done.
I prefer Yank converters myself because of the fantastic results that I've personally had with them. There are other good converters out there, but keep in mind that with a TC you get what you pay for. Inexpensive converters are most often cheap converters.
For a bolt on daily driver I'd would and did go with a 3500-3600 rpm stall.
For a bolt on weekend warrior/track car I'd go 4000.
Anyone use Percision Vigilante TQ? I have heard that a Yank 3500 throws your check engine light, etc., and you have to turn the car off and on again to reset the computer? What kind of price will i pay for a TQ? I drive my car in the summer and park it in the winter. I see the track maybe twice a year and use my car to goto cruises and some long distance trips. What are the pros and cons of yank 3500 or 3600 compared to a 4000. My car may get 2k to 2500k miles a year.
Anyone use Percision Vigilante TQ? I have heard that a Yank 3500 throws your check engine light, etc., and you have to turn the car off and on again to reset the computer? What kind of price will i pay for a TQ? I drive my car in the summer and park it in the winter. I see the track maybe twice a year and use my car to goto cruises and some long distance trips. What are the pros and cons of yank 3500 or 3600 compared to a 4000. My car may get 2k to 2500k miles a year.
As Marc said a Vig. is right along side of Yank in performance and quality.
A high quality converter will cost $750 and up but it's wortht it.
The 4000 might get you a little more et but if you are only racing a couple of times a year then stick to the 35-3600 stall speed.
I ran a 13.12 on street tires (traction control on during the pass too) bone stock with a Yank SS3400. Awesome converter. It felt pretty much like stock and I ran it on the stock tune.
I am not a big fan of pulling EGR, though, it allows you more part throttle timing. I personally wouldn't do it unless you are doing at least headers or heads or cam.
-Geoff
I am not a big fan of pulling EGR, though, it allows you more part throttle timing. I personally wouldn't do it unless you are doing at least headers or heads or cam.
-Geoff
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